Anti theft system disable, no start, no Bus

Tiny
O'L YELLER
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 DODGE DURANGO
  • 5.2L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 237,275 MILES
Car won't start, security light on, no fob. Getting spark and sometimes fuel pump kicks in but only when dash lights works and gauges. If pump don't kick in no gauges. Turn ignition to on 3 times fast and wait few seconds, no bus on odometer, security light, check engine, ABS, gas pump and low wash on. Now, I turned key back off then on again, still no pump, but lights mentioned earlier. Clicking noise as they disappear and odometer flashes 3 times with no bus and same lights reappear to dinging noise like door. However, I now have done this switch on and off round 5 times total and left in on position for few minutes and fuel pump decides to kick in, millage back on and only check engine light is on. Now cranked up and running but like really badly. Heavy vibrating and will only idle if gas pedal is held with acute squeak from engine (like wet or lose alternator belt) very possible belt is now and wasn't doing that before when all this started. So not an issue don't think. Help me please! I have given you the whole story I believe, lol.
Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 4:37 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi,

It could be several things. You mentioned that when the lights go off on the dash, you hear a clicking. Have you checked for loose wires to the instrument cluster itself?

Now, when there is a no bus signal, there is a loss of communication between modules. Have you tried using a scan tool to retrieve diagnostic trouble codes? There are several diagnostic tests I can provide, but without a code it will likely take forever to hit the right test.

Let me know.
Joe
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 6:08 PM
Tiny
O'L YELLER
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Not sure what code you need, I rewrote these that a friend wrote down while using scan tool and I was told the clicking is relays for security and ABS. What does the instrument cluster look like or does it go by other name? I made 3 videos total I can try and send. The first 2 should give you idea for sure and please excuse the tiredness and attempts to fight frustration, lol.
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Friday, September 11th, 2020 AT 2:20 AM
Tiny
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Sorry first video was part 2, and second was part 3. Sending part 1.
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Friday, September 11th, 2020 AT 2:50 AM
Tiny
O'L YELLER
  • MEMBER
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Geez sorry again, this is part 1 for sure!
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Friday, September 11th, 2020 AT 3:06 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi,

I watched the videos and saw what is happening. The bus system is basically two wires which connect the modules together so they can communicate. There are several bus codes. See below.

Bus Failure Messages

Short to Battery - Either or both of the bus wires are shorted to the battery potential, or open ground to any CCD bus module.

Short to 5 Volts - Either or both of the bus wires are shorted to a 5-volt potential.

Short to Ground - Either or both of the bus wires are shorted to ground.

Bus (+) L Bus (-) Shorted Together - The two bus wires are shorted together.

No Termination - The bus system has lost connection with all of its terminators.

Bus Bias Level Too Low - Either of both of the bus wire potentials are significantly below their normal 2.5 volts.

Bus Bias Level Too High - Either of both of the bus wire potentials are significantly above their normal 2.5 volts.

No Bus Bias - The bus system has lost connection with the Instrument Cluster.

Bus (+) Open - The bus (+) wire has lost connection with termination and/or bias.

Bus (-) Open - The bus (-) wire has lost connection with termination and/or bias.

Not receiving Bus Messages Correctly - The DRB cannot communicate over the bus and does not know why.

___________________

What I see on your vehicle is the "no bus bias. The problem is there are about 20 different codes related to this. So, here is what I want you to try.

The next time the millage screen shows that message, get the OBD2 codes by turning ignition key from the off position to the "on/run" position (not "start") three times. On the third time, leave it in on/run position and look at the millage screen. Codes should appear.

Try that and let me know what you find. Note, if that if this doesn't work, I need you to get your hands on a scan tool to check for codes. Because of the problem type, we need codes otherwise it will become a guessing game.

Also, take a look at the attached pic I attached. You will see how the power-train control module, instrument cluster, fuel gauge and so on are tied together. Make sure the connection at the PCM is tight and not corroded. Don't disconnect it to check unless the battery is disconnected. Also, don't reconnect it unless the battery is disconnected.

Let me know.

Joe
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Friday, September 11th, 2020 AT 7:48 PM

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