Intermittent alternator issue

BRITTANY296564

MEMBER
2005 CHEVROLET AVEO
4 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
212,000 MILES

I think my alternator doesn’t kick on, but only sometimes. It’s a hit or miss and I don’t feel like the alternator is bad, but maybe poor connection somewhere. I know at first this was a frequent issue, but my negative battery terminal was in poor condition so I changed it and I didn’t have a problem out of it for a couple months. Now it’s back to the same stuff. Any suggestions of what it could be?

7 Replies

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,700 POSTS

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Since replacement of the cable worked for a good period of time, I think the problem is there. What I need you to do is simply test alternator output while you move the wiring around to see if there is a fluctuation in voltage to the battery.

Here is a link that shows how to test an alternator. Before you do this, make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight. Also, since you replaced the negative, confirm that all grounds to the body and engine are clean and tight.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

You will need to use a volt meter or multi meter to do the aforementioned test. Here is a link that shows how one is used:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

If the alternator is not working on a continuous basis, it does sound like a connection. So, make sure to check and confirm the wiring to the alternator is tight and corrosion free. Remember, there is 12v of power to the alt at all times, so if you plan to disconnect anything on the alternator, make sure to disconnect the battery first.

Also, if you could let me know the specific symptoms you are experiencing that cause you to believe there is a problem, it may be helpful.

If you determine the alternator is bad, here is a link that shows how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-alternator

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for alternator replacement. All attached pictures correlate with these directions.

_________________________________________________________

GENERATOR REPLACEMENT (DOHC)

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.

picture 1

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor electrical connector from the air intake tube.

picture 2
3. Remove the breather tube clamp and all other clamps to remove the air intake tube.

picture 3
4. Remove the battery harness connector nut from the generator.

picture 4
5. Remove the generator shackle bracket bolt.

picture 5

6. Remove the serpentine accessory drive belt. For vehicles equipped with power steering and air conditioning.

picture 6

7. Remove the nuts which hold the generator lower bracket-to-generator bolts.
8. Carefully remove the generator.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

picture 7

1. Install the generator at the generator lower bracket and insert the generator bolts.

NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

2. Install the nut and the washers on the generator lower bracket-to-generator bolts.

Tighten the generator lower bracket-to-generator nuts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).

picture 8
3. Install the generator and the lower support bracket assembly to the engine block with the bolts.
4. Secure the generator to the shackle bracket with the bolt.

Tighten the generator shackle bracket bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).

picture 9

5. Connect the harness connector to the back of the generator.
6. Install the generator lead to the battery and fasten the lead with the nut.

Tighten the generator battery lead nut to 15 N.m (11 lb ft).

picture 10

7. Install the air intake tube and the connector.

picture 11

8. Install the IAT electrical connector to the air intake tube.
9. Connect the negative battery cable.

_____________________________________________________

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

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Sunday, February 24th, 2019 AT 6:29 PM

BRITTANY296564

MEMBER
5 POSTS

I think the alternator doesn’t kick on sometimes because sometimes the battery goes dead. I can tell when the alternator is working and when it isn’t by the clock on the dashboard, when the alternator is working as it should the clock is bright, but when it isn’t it isn’t as bright and it will soon dim and the car will shut off. But I think it’s connection because when the clock is dim none of my lights around it, like the air bag and seat belt don’t come on either. When I turn my key over the engine and oil light won’t come on or anything, that’s usually an indicator it isn’t going to work. Before I switched the negative terminal my dash lights would flash on and off so I thought it was probably a bad ground not letting the battery charge. Also, on my positive terminal there is a thick wire running from where my terminal, acting as a possible extension cord I’m assuming. I thought maybe that could be the issue as well. I will send a picture of it because explaining it would be confusing.

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Sunday, February 24th, 2019 AT 10:46 PM

BRITTANY296564

MEMBER
5 POSTS

In this picture I have that wore clamped between where I think a normal terminal could go. It isn’t spliced in anywhere. Could that be a possible problem?

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