Alternators remove and replace instructions needed?

Hi,

This isn't a traditional job. On this vehicle, you will need to remove the cooling fan assembly and the A/C will need evacuated to remove a flexible low-pressure line. Then the system will need to be recharged after the new alternator is installed.

If you look below, I provided the removal and installation directions specific to this vehicle. Take a look through them and let me know if you have questions.

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

That one is not that bad but you need to be able to recover the refrigerant charge so you can move the low-pressure line out of the way to get room to remove it.
Step one is to remove the cooling fan from the front, then remove the serpentine belt. Now remove the belly cover from under the front end. Recover the refrigerant charge, then the low-pressure line and plug the opening to keep dirt out of the compressor. Now you can disconnect the battery cable from the battery and the alternator, then unplug the connector. Now remove the retaining bolts and remove the alternator. Reverse the process to install it. Use a new O-ring on the low-pressure A/C line and lube it with some refrigerant oil for assembly. Be careful tightening the battery cable nut on the B stud on the alternator, they can be damaged easily. Then pull a vacuum in the A/C system and recharge it with 1.21 pounds of R134A. Test the system for operation.

I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima. The other day, at a stop light i hit the gas and there car didn't go and the engine didnt rev. After it was turned off and back on it fired up to just to do the same again at a different light. Then it started to act like it had a dead battery. Since then the alternator was changed (battery was 2 months old) it did the same thing again 2 days later (drove for a day). That is, it was started after sitting overnight, drove a quarter mile, was shut off for 3 hours, started up and then the gas pedal wouldn't rev the engine when it was put in gear. Now its sitting so it doesnt die on the road. Some one said the O2 sensor could go bad and drain the battery? Any ideas?

I dont see how the o2 sensor is going to drain the battery.See what the charging voltage is at the battery at idle?

The battery measured a little above 12v. The charging voltage at idle was 14.15, 14.2 with a little gas. When put into gear the car would move (this time) and it rev'd in neutral.

What would start as a gas pedal/engine rev problem and then result in a dead battery issue at stop lights? Now that the car didnt respond backing out of a driveway, what could it be?

Do you have any codes in the computer?

1997 Nissan Maxima 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

my car will not start, i just bought a new battery and itz gotten worse the lights in my car are dim and it just wont start i need help

jump it off and get to advanced, they will check the battery and alternator for free. get back to us if they are both good

could also be a short draining your battery, or the serpitine belt may not be functioning properly, bad tension

98 nissan maxima 3.0 In the past year in a half the alternator has been replaced three times and the last time was four months ago. The car died while driving last night and wouldn't start again cuz battery was drained. Replaced the battery and checked charging system and it says it's charging at around 13.90v with loads on. I checked for a draw and there isn't one. What should be checked next?

see below

[quote:82cf7a9ffd="ZAKKATTACK"]98 nissan maxima 3.0 In the past year in a half the alternator has been replaced three times and the last time was four months ago. The car died while driving last night and wouldn't start again cuz battery was drained. Replaced the battery and checked charging system and it says it's charging at around 13.90v with loads on. I checked for a draw and there isn't one. What should be checked next?[/quote:82cf7a9ffd]

13.90 volts, sounds good with a load. You should double check all connections from battery and behind the alternator-make sure your grounded good. Bcuz if your not grounded good-its just like disconnecting a battery cable while the engine is operating and causing the regulator to go haywire due to the open circuit and will blow again.

Could also be the wire from the alternator going back to the ignition switch.

Gidday Rassar

Do you know what the faults were with your alternators?
Are you running standard loads? Do you have the 500 w subs and do short runs at low speeds in a hot climate with alot of parked time with the sounds cranked up ? all this adds to alternator demands.

Regards Don
New Zealand