Cluster replacement instructions please?

Hello, I'm Danny.

Here is the instrument cluster removal procedure you requested. I've attached picture steps below for removal and replacement for your car. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

I attached a wiring diagram for you to view. Check the 2 fuses listed for power on both sides.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

If they are good, the cluster has failed internally.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Roy

Hi,

Can you take a picture of your cluster so I can see which model you have? Or do you have the one with message center or just the odometer/trip meter?

More than likely the advice is going to be the same in that it may need a cluster however, we need to check the power and ground to the cluster and that is going to vary depending on which cluster you have. Plus we need to do the test attached. The only issue is, we need the scan tool to active the display test. Again, this is most likely the cluster but it could be an ABS module issue. The fact that the rest of the cluster is going out is why I am pushing to a cluster issue.

Not only the specific cluster but can you retrieve the codes in the system and see if you have any? If not, then we can run through this test and then go from there.

I would start by checking wiring to the rear of the cluster to make sure nothing is loose. IF all appears good, check for rusted or damaged body grounds. After that, have the body control module checked.

Hello,

it sounds like the gauge had a voltage surge which will take out the gauge I would try a used cluster. Here is a video showing the job done and diagrams below to help you with your car.

https://youtu.be/_HEC44xENxw

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken

I want to make shure I am reading this right. You replaced the dash gauge and the sening unit in the gas tank and still no luck? See if in the power distribution box under the hood, if there is a fuse or realy for the instrument cluster, if not it will be in the cars fusebox, Last option will be the hardest. Check the dash ground wire.

Most likely the "CO" stands for "circuit open". That would be a break in the wire going to the sending unit in the tank.

When you replace the fuel pump always use an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) unit. Have your fuel pressure checked to make sure the new fuel pump is working properly. Have your computer scanned for trouble codes, the runability problem could be as simple as a tune-up.
Regarding the gauge, it sounds like your sending unit is bad. If the sending unit was replaced with the fuel pump then the gauge is bad.

Good morning,

This could be the sender unit itself which is part of the fuel pump module.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

Before assuming this, I would check the connector at the fuel pump on the tank and be sure the connector is clean, tight, and no corrosion. It may be a bad connection.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Roy

WARNING: Do not smoke, carry lighted tobacco or open flame of any type when working on or near any fuel related component. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited, resulting in possible personal injury.

CAUTION: Fuel supply lines will remain pressurized for long periods of time after engine shut down. This pressure must be relieved before servicing of the fuel system is begun. A valve is provided on the throttle body for this purpose. Remove the air cleaner and relieve system pressure by using Rotunda pressure gauge tool T80L-9974-A or equivalent and drain the system through the drain tube.

REMOVAL

1. Depressurize fuel system.
2. Remove fuel from fuel tank by pump out through filler.
3. Disconnect supply line and return line fittings and vent line at the RH and LH side rear axle frame kick-ups.
4. Disconnect fuel sender electrical connector forward of tank.
5. Remove filler neck ring clamp screws.
6. Remove fuel tank support straps and remove fuel tank.
7. Remove any dirt that has accumulated around the fuel pump attaching flange.
8. Disconnect the supply line and return line fittings and the electrical connector.
9. Turn the fuel pump locking ring counterclockwise and remove locking ring.
10. Remove fuel pump and bracket assembly.
11. Remove seal ring and discard.

INSTALLATION

Fuel Pump Removal/Installation
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1. Clean the fuel pump mounting flange, the fuel tank mounting surface and seal ring groove.
2. Apply a light coating lubricant on a new seal ring to hold it in place during assembly and install in fuel ring groove.
3. Install fuel pump and bracket assembly carefully to ensure that filter is not damaged. Ensure locating keys are in keyways and seal ring remains in groove.
4. Hold pump assembly in place and install locking ring finger tight. Ensure that all locking tabs are under tank lock ring tabs.
5. Secure the fuel sending unit and pump assembly by rotating the locking ring clockwise, until the ring stops against the stop tabs.
6. Raise tank partially and install vent line and fuel tubes.
7. Install electrical connector.
8. Install fuel line fittings.
9. Install fuel tank in vehicle and tighten straps.
10. Connect fuel sender electrical connector.
11. Install filler tube and attaching screws.
12. Connect vent line.
13. Install fittings on RH and LH side of vehicle.
14. Install a minimum of 10 gallons of fuel and check for leaks.
15. With a fuel pressure gauge on schrader valve, turn the ignition switch ON/OFF for three seconds. Repeat this ON/OFF switching (5 to 10 times) until the pressure gauge shows at least 35 psi.
16. Remove pressure gauge, start engine and check for leaks.