Welcome back to 2CarPros. When you say not blowing do you mean you do not hear or feel any change when you change the fan speed control OR do you mean that there is air blowing but not cold air?
If it's the first one and the blower isn't working at all then check the RR HVAC Fuse (30A) in the under hood fuse block. If it tests OK then you will need to access the rear HVAC unit to test at the blower motor and the control module to see if there is power there.
To do that you can follow the instructions in the images below.
First is the upper trim piece. Followed by the lower quarter trim panel. Once those panels are off the AC unit is in the open. The blower motor is at the top and the controller is midway up the rear edge. The blower comes out with a few screws and the wiring connector. To test the blower motor you can use a couple pieces of wire and the battery, if it spins up OK then check for battery voltage at the Red wire with a White stripe going into the speed controller. If there is voltage there and you have a good ground the controller is suspect. Or the signal from the front controls. Those can be tested but you need an oscilloscope to do it correctly.
If the blower works but no cold air then it could be a low charge in the system caused by a leak in the rear unit. There is a TSB about the A/C in these vehicles failing because the blower motor is shedding small pieces into itself causing a leak in the evaporator core.
#16-NA-046: A/C Inoperative, Blows Warm or Poor Performance Due to Low Refrigerant Charge, Refrigerant Leak - (Jul 20, 2017)
However this isn't really a DIY repair unless you have the proper AC tools as the system has to be discharged, repaired and recharged.
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Tuesday, August 27th, 2019 AT 9:27 AM
