Air conditioner blows hot and low side pressure is too high

Tiny
RICHARDINNC
  • MEMBER
  • 2012 FORD FUSION
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 134,000 MILES
I was trying to troubleshoot why my A/C is blowing hot and was going to try adding Freon. I bought the one with the gauge but the low side reading is above 150 psi. Is my next step doing the vacuum and new refrigerant or is there smaller steps in between I can try/look for? Thanks!
Thursday, June 27th, 2019 AT 11:06 AM

21 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

I have to be honest, I have a feeling it is either extremely overcharged or the compressor is bad. To make a determination, I need to know the high side readings as well. You need an AC manifold kit with both gauges. Here is a link that shows how to evacuate and recharge a system using such gauges:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

Now, I will also need to know the approximately outside temperature when this is checked. The link shows how to vacuum and recharge the system. I used this link because it shows how the gauges are used.

Now, if you check and both high and low sides are too high, it's overcharged. If the high side pressure is low and the low side pressure is high, chances are the compressor is bad.

Do that and let me know the results.

Joe
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Thursday, June 27th, 2019 AT 9:35 PM
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
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Just as Joe noted: we need both high and low side reading to make a better assessment of what’s going on. A couple of things also to verify is that your cooling fans operate and also if your car is equipped with the radiator shutters, these are often failure points due to front end parking block checks because they hang so low and can be stuck closed. The sole purpose of the radiator shutters is to speed up the warm up of the engine for emission purposes. Just make sure they are open to make a long story short.
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Friday, June 28th, 2019 AT 7:56 PM
Tiny
RICHARDINNC
  • MEMBER
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Thank you Joe and BMDOUBLE. I have ordered a gauge that can read both and will let you know. The outside temperature is upper 80’s to 90 degrees out when I took it. I watched the video on diagnosing your A/C here on 2CarPros and my A/C clutch is spinning if that helps. I don’t think my car has radiator shutters but I could be wrong!

Thanks again!
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Saturday, June 29th, 2019 AT 3:13 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Happy to help. Let us know what you find. It's good that the compressor is engaging, but I am concerned about the pressures. Hopefully, it will just be overcharged.

Take care and let us know what you find.

Joe
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Saturday, June 29th, 2019 AT 6:20 PM
Tiny
RICHARDINNC
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The gauges for the high and low both read 120 psi.

Thanks in advance for any insight!
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Wednesday, July 3rd, 2019 AT 6:23 PM
Tiny
RICHARDINNC
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This was with the car off and in about 90 degree weather.
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Wednesday, July 3rd, 2019 AT 6:27 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Welcome back:

Okay, those are both good static pressure readings. What do you get when the system is running?

Thanks,
Joe
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Wednesday, July 3rd, 2019 AT 8:11 PM
Tiny
RICHARDINNC
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Same thing. No cold air though.
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Wednesday, July 3rd, 2019 AT 9:02 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Welcome back:

I'm sorry. I wasn't clear. What are the pressure readings when the system is running?

Joe.
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Wednesday, July 3rd, 2019 AT 9:47 PM
Tiny
RICHARDINNC
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They were the same.
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Thursday, July 4th, 2019 AT 8:21 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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If the pressures were the same both static pressure, and with the system running, and the compressor clutch was engaged, the compressor is most likely the problem. If there is no change, it isn't working. You are certain that the clutch is engaging, correct?

Joe
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Thursday, July 4th, 2019 AT 6:38 PM
Tiny
RICHARDINNC
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I took a video. I don’t know a whole lot but I think the clutch is engaging. The pressures on high and low are both 100 psi static and running. I just took this now in 89 degrees.
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Friday, July 5th, 2019 AT 2:15 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Welcome back:

It's hard to tell in the video because of the angle I'm seeing it from. Try this. Have a helper in the vehicle with the AC off. Have the helper start the engine (AC off). While you are watching the compressor, have them turn the AC on. You should hear a click and the center of the pulley should start spinning.

Let me know.

Joe
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Friday, July 5th, 2019 AT 5:24 PM
Tiny
RICHARDINNC
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Yes it clicks and starts spinning!
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Friday, July 5th, 2019 AT 5:50 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Welcome back:

Since it is engaging and there is no change in pressure, the compressor is bad. I wish I had better news.

Here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-air-conditioner-compressor

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The attached pictures correlate with the directions.
_________________________________

2012 Ford Fusion FWD V6-3.0L Flex Fuel
Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor
Vehicle Heating and Air Conditioning Compressor HVAC Service and Repair Removal and Replacement Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor

pic 1

NOTE: 3.0L shown, 3.5L similar.

pic 2

pic 3

Removal and Installation
NOTICE: If installing a new Air Conditioning (A/C) compressor due to an internal failure of the old unit, the following procedures must be carried out to remove contamination from the A/C system. Failure to remove contamination from the A/C system, if present, will result in poor A/C performance and/or damage to the new A/C compressor and other components.

- If A/C flushing equipment is available, carry out flushing of the A/C system prior to installing a new A/C compressor.

- If A/C flushing equipment is not available, carry out filtering of the A/C system after a new A/C compressor has been installed.

- Install a new Thermostatic Expansion Valve (TXV), as directed by the A/C flushing or filtering procedure.

- Install a new receiver/drier cartridge as directed by the A/C flushing or filtering procedure.

NOTICE: Use only the Air Conditioning (A/C) refrigerant compressor oil specified for this vehicle configuration. Use of any A/C refrigerant compressor oil other than what is specified will contaminate and damage the A/C system.
NOTE: Installation of a new receiver/drier cartridge is not required when repairing the A/C system, except when there is physical evidence of contamination from a failed A/C compressor or damage to the receiver/drier cartridge. Damage to the receiver/drier cartridge includes physical damage or moisture contamination. Moisture contamination results only from a complete loss of refrigerant, and equalization of the refrigerant system pressure with atmospheric pressure for a period longer than one hour. If even a slight amount of positive refrigerant pressure is present in the refrigerant system before repairs are carried out, the receiver/drier cartridge does not need to be replaced.
All vehicles

1. If flushing of the A/C system has not been carried out, recover the refrigerant.

2. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Vehicle Jacking and Lifting. See: Vehicle Lifting > Procedures > Jacking and Lifting

3. Remove the lower engine splash shield (if equipped).

4. Remove the drive belt from the A/C compressor pulley.

5. Remove the A/C compressor manifold bolt.
- Discard the gasket seals.

- To install, tighten to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).

6. Disconnect the field coil electrical connector.

3.0L vehicles

7. Remove the 3 A/C compressor bolts.
- To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).

3.5L vehicles

8. Remove the 2 A/C compressor bolts.
- To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).

9. Remove the A/C compressor stud.
1. Remove the A/C compressor nut.

2. Remove the A/C compressor stud.
- To install, tighten the stud to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).

- To install, tighten the nut to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).

pic 4

All vehicles

10. Remove the A/C compressor.

11. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
- Install new gasket seals.

- If filtering of the A/C system is not to be carried out, add the correct amount of clean PAG oil to the refrigerant system.

12. If filtering of the A/C system is not to be carried out, evacuate, leak test and charge the refrigerant system.

_________________________________

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe
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Friday, July 5th, 2019 AT 8:47 PM
Tiny
RICHARDINNC
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Thank you for all of your help Joe! I'll let you know if/when I am successful!
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Saturday, July 6th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Welcome back:

You are very welcome. I just wish I could have provided an easier fix. And you wrote, if/when I am successful. I know you will be. What you have already done is a lot!

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, July 6th, 2019 AT 8:23 PM
Tiny
RICHARDINNC
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Thanks Joe!
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Sunday, July 7th, 2019 AT 7:36 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Happy to help.

Take care,
Joe
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Sunday, July 7th, 2019 AT 9:05 PM
Tiny
NIKKO95
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Jacob, I know this is an old thread, but I have a very similar situation except the clutch is not engaging. Static pressure is 150 on both sides running pressure is 150 on both sides warm air. Clutch does not engage
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Wednesday, July 19th, 2023 AT 12:06 AM

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