Air conditioner blowing warm air

Tiny
PAUL MUELLER
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.8L
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 67,776 MILES
First found out that the fuse was blown (the clutch wasn't turning at all), so I changed that and the clutch began working. The air seemed to get a little cooler - it was definitely blowing warm air when the clutch wasn't running.

Next since it was blowing warm air I got a can of refrigerant from Walmart (I think it was Air Pros with the gauge on it).

I put the gauge on the low side (L) and didn't get much of a reading. I actually think I didn't have the connector on it real well. So when I got it on correctly I started adding the refrigerant (so basically I didn't really get a before reading).

When I started adding the refrigerant I would hold the lever for about 15 seconds then looked at the gauge. I did this a few times and the gauge was in the green (the right area).

So only then, after I was about done with adding the refrigerant because it was near the high end of the green area did I hear for the first time that the clutch was starting to stop for a few seconds and then start again. Some website said this was OK and that clutches do that, but I am still a little skeptical - let me know your thoughts on that please.

I got concerned, so I shut off the air conditioner - oh and by the way the air never got colder.

I am not sure why the clutch only started stopping and starting after I put in more refrigerant. Any ideas about that?

So I just looked online and listened to a video of yours and am not quite sure what next to do.

The fans come on under the hood near the evaporator and radiator, I guess to keep them cool, so the fans seems to be working okay.

The clutch is working (still a bit unsure of the starting and stopping though.

Having the air on high in the car works, meaning it blows air, not like there is an abductor issue (might be the wrong word).

OK, lastly I wanted to mention that the video I watched mentioned the evaporator as another piece, but didn't say much about that.

I wanted to say that at least a year ago I hit some kind of animal on the highway and I had to have some of those front pieces replaced, I know the evaporator was one of them.

My only thoughts at this time is that, as the video mentions, that the pressurized air goes through the evaporator (again, I think).

I mention the evaporator because I really don't think my A/C has worked really good since then. I know I had a shop put refrigerant in my car, but I can't remember if it was before or after the accident and replacement of parts and I didn't even then think it helped a lot.

Is there a way to tell if the evaporator is clogged or needs service or anything?

Thank you for reading this - I am not sure what else to do, any ideas would help.

Paul Mueller
Tuesday, September 17th, 2019 AT 6:16 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
JIS001
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,411 POSTS
Hello and welcome to 2CarPros. The compressor cycling on and off is normal. As to why it is not cooling properly we would need to know what the pressures are on both the low and high side. You may also have air in the system. You would need to evacuate the system and actually pull a vacuum to get any air and moisture out. Here is a link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

If there is any type of restriction the gauge reading on both ports will indicate that based on what pressures are reading.
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Monday, September 23rd, 2019 AT 11:39 AM
Tiny
PAUL MUELLER
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thank you for your reply. I think that to do what you are asking I will leave to a professional. I have done everything I could (maybe I even introduced air into the system when trying to add refrigerant myself). So I am going to take it to my trusted mechanic. I was just feeling good about doing it myself after I was able to switch out the fuse to make the clutch actually work. Thank you again for replying.

Have a good day.

Paul
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Monday, September 23rd, 2019 AT 11:39 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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JIS001 is one of our best! Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
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Monday, September 23rd, 2019 AT 11:39 AM
Tiny
PAUL MUELLER
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Hi, well the mechanic found that there was about a pound too much freon/refrigerant in the system (Probably from me trying to fill it up and didn't really have enough knowledge about it) which made some high side switch trip so it wouldn't ruin the system. They removed the excess air and I now have "some" cold air. After they drove it they realized that the air wasn't real cold; they think my air compressor is about shot. So it looks like I will be needing one of those.

Thanks for your help.

Paul
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Monday, September 23rd, 2019 AT 11:39 AM
Tiny
JIS001
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Hello and welcome back. A quick way to narrow it down is by getting the pressure readings. Usually when the high side and low side pretty much measure the same thing the compressor is bad. Your mechanic should narrow it down to that if that is the case.

The bad part is when your compressor is failing then you would need the system flushed out and replace the drier. Bag can be replaced separate from the condensor to save some money, but I would recommend to just replace the condensor assembly if you can. Keep us posted please.
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Monday, September 23rd, 2019 AT 11:39 AM
Tiny
PAUL MUELLER
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Hello, I appreciate your educated answers. I can ask the mechanic about checking the pressure to see if high and low are the same; which would indicate bad compressor. If that is the case then fine, I would need a new one. However, you introduced three new terms that I am going to have to ask you about. You say when compressor is failing the system needs to be flushed out (can you explain that please - unless it means removing the refrigerant) and replace the drier (first term I am not sure what it is). Is the drier part of the compressor or is it somewhere else in the engine?

Then you said a bag (term number 2) can be replaced - I am not sure what a bag is. In relation to an air conditioner. Then you talk about replacing the condensor (third term) to save some money. I think the condensor is the thing up near the radiator but please let me know for sure. I am not sure how the condenser relates to the air compressor if it is bad and how replacing it would help. I guess that is a cheaper fix than the air compressor if high and low are NOT the same pressure. Lastly I don't know if I mentioned that a few years ago I hit some animal on the highway and had to have the condenser (the thing up front by the radiator replaced). So I am wondering if that condenser was not very good to begin with. My A/C hasn't worked very well since the accident I don't think.

Anyway I just threw a lot at you because I don't quite understand how the parts that aren't the compressor are related to the issue other than if the mechanic thinks that the compressor is the only option.

Thanks for your help.

Paul
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Monday, September 23rd, 2019 AT 11:39 AM
Tiny
JIS001
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Hello and welcome back. When the compressor starts to fail the inside starts to break apart which introduces metal contaminants. When you replace the compressor for failure you will need to flush out the system of contaminants and replace the drier (filter). Most Japanese automotives have that filter in the condensor which can be serviced separately or you can replace the condensor assembly which comes with a new filter inside (the bag). But double checking the image I sent it looks like you can just replace the drier since it is outside the condensor.

I hope this clarified the answer and if you have any other questions about this repair do not hesitate to ask. Also to make a note, when replacing a compressor in order to have a warranty they will want you to replace the drier since the majority of the metal contaminants gets captured there. Not doing so will introduce that metal back into the system and cause the compressor to fail prematurely.
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Monday, September 23rd, 2019 AT 11:39 AM

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