1990 Acura Integra engine shuts off after restarting

Tiny
NHOVLAND
  • MEMBER
  • 1990 ACURA INTEGRA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 22,000 MILES
I've been the sole owner of a 1990 Integra LS. Recently I've have had problems with getting the engine to continue to run after starting. Situation is, after starting, driving to a destination and shutting off the car, upon restarting it will start but quickly cut off. This requires waiting for several minutes before finally starting again after several attempts.

I've cleaned the IACV, changed the fuel filter, replaced the iginition wires, rotor, cap and plugs.

I suspect this is an electrical problem similar to the replacement of what used to be the condenser on older cars but not sure.

What do you think? Thanks
Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 9:05 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
MADMIKE1735
  • MECHANIC
  • 951 POSTS
The condensor is ac related, and would have nothing to do with your problem. Do you have an aftermarket security system, or a remote start?
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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 9:29 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi NHovland,

Symptoms indicates a likely fault with the PGM-FI main relay. Get it resoldered or replaced and retest.

Hi madmike1735,

The condenser as referred to (capacitor actual name) is used for contact point distributors of yester years.
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Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 AT 11:10 AM
Tiny
NHOVLAND
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Hi KHLow2008 - Thanks for the info. Makes sense after reading other's similar problems and advice.

I'm inclined to replace it rather than resoldering. Question is how difficult is it to take the relay out and replace?

I've figured out where it is and know access undder the dashboard can be a pain.

Thanks again, NHovland
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Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 AT 12:36 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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  • 41,814 POSTS
Sorry for the delay.

My PC has crashed and is now in the factory for warranty repairs and is expecte back only in a few days time and I am now using a dial up to work with. I am ot going to be online till then.

The relay is not difficult to remove except you need to get to the holding bolt ( 10 mm hex head m6 thread). The tight space does not make it easy to work with though. One way of removing is to pry(push) the center of both ends outwardes and pull the relay body out leaving the housing intact. Remember to disconnect the battery if you are doing so as shorting can occur when the body is taken out.

Based on experience, resoldering with replacement of solders works better than replacement of parts. Replacement parts might not last as there seems to be a manufacturing flaw in the solders of the component.
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Sunday, September 12th, 2010 AT 1:42 AM
Tiny
NHOVLAND
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  • 3 POSTS
KHLow2008 - Sorry to hear about your PC problems. Can almost be more of a hassle than car problems.
Want to say thx for your repsonse. Since I sent my PGM-FI main relay removal question I went thru several glitches in IDing, find the part and removing. Net is I bought a relay from a dealer, installed it and car runs fine now. Had trouble finding the correct part from aftermarket parts stores and was told that's typical for old cars. Paid more for the part thru the dealer but got IDs and function description on other relays under the dash and install instructions. So even tho you weren't able to respond before now I would probably would have replaced anyway since I don't have a solder gun. Besides I took the old one apart and connections were badly cracked, missing solder and generally looked not worth repairing. Thx again.
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Sunday, September 12th, 2010 AT 12:36 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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You're welcome and thanks for the concern regarding my PC. Managed to get it back today and it seems one of the RAM was unstable and had been replaced under warranty.

Glad to know you have fixed the problem.

Have a nice day.
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Monday, September 13th, 2010 AT 8:14 AM

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