A/C works okjay, but quits once RPM's hit 2500/3000

(2012 Ford Escape, have never had A/C issues until moving to a hot and humid climate)


I noticed that the A/C was seemingly failing while driving one day in mid 90 degree temps. When I got home, I also noticed that once my car idled in park for a minute or so the A/C kicked back on. Weird.

After some tests and extensive Googling, I learned that the A/C compressor clutch would cut out once I revved up past 1500 RPM's.

Next day, thunderstorms hit and the outside temp drops to about 76. I drove around for 15 minutes or so, accelerating normally (jumping out into traffic, etc), never lost cold air.

Cut to the day after and I'm back to square one in 90 degree heat. I figured I'd go the inexpensive route first, so I bought a cheap refrigerant/gauge combo and decided to see what the low quality gauge gave me when hooked up to the low side pressure gauge; in 90 degree heat, car running, A/C on MAX and recirculating, the gauge wavered around 55 - 60 PSI (in the upper "Yellow" range of the gauge) and also dipped into "Red" just barely, but the clutch never quit until I revved up.

I decided to remove some of the refrigerant slowly to see if I could drop the gauge back down to the "Green" area (25 - 50 PSI). After a few tries (I'd say 10 seconds of removal time total conservatively. Maybe more) I got the gauge to read somewhat reliably at 50 - 55 PSI, although it continued to waver periodically.

With the car off and the gauge still hooked up, the gauge reads at about 105 - 110 PSI (about halfway between 60 and 150 on the gauge graphic.) This is presumably the static pressure and is in the normal range for low 90 degree weather, or so I think. Although the running low side pressure is high.

After all this, now the A/C compressor clutch doesn't cut out until I rev up to 3000 RPM's. Progress? Once the clutch cuts out it takes about 2 full minutes to kick back on with the car back at idle.

My question(s) is, am I just blindly throwing darts at a board in the dark trying to use this crappy gauge or am I most likely correct in assuming my low side pressure is too high? Should I continue removing refrigerant until my gauge reads "green", or should I bite the bullet and get a "real" gauge set? Also read online that a dirty condenser could be the culprit?

Also some other facts; I've been driving this car for about 4 years and have never had A/C issues, even while driving through Death Valley in 117 degree temperatures. Obviously the A/C will quit on me eventually, I just find it odd that it would be overcharged rather than undercharged.


Thanks!