A/C warmer on driver side than passenger side?

Well, it sounds like the refrigerant system is working well if the suction line is getting very cold. The description you give certainly sounds like a dual zone issue. I uploaded 2 images, could you please tell me which HVAC control head you have? C60 or CJ3? I want to make sure we are diagnosing the right system. Thanks.

Okay. I did say it was not a dual zone system. Pretty sure I'd have seen a passenger cold-warm slider. But here's a picture.

Thank you very much for the picture. I've been looking through parts catalogs and it looks like they use the same HVAC housing design for both single and dual zone systems. It's possible that the temperature door may not be sealing properly. As you can see in the image there are two parts to the temperature door. The driver's side may be warped or missing insulation. If you have access to a borescope, you might be able to feed it into the vents and see.

No apology necessary. I think sometimes it's hard to have a conversation by way of the printed word only. Hehe. Anyway, thanks for the additional information. First off, if the refrigerant system is working as it should, it will not cause a temperature difference between sides. You can kind of get the idea about the airflow from the vacuum diagram.
Basically, the temperature door changes or blocks how much air flows across the heater core. On your car the temperature door is controlled by an electric actuator. All of the other mode doors are vacuum controlled.

As far as finding a leak goes, you can use a black light and check along the components and fittings, condenser fins, etc. Sometimes you can see a potential leak without a black light. If it has been leaking long enough there can be an oily residue left behind. Also, if you can locate the evaporator drain, you could look for any dye traces there. That would let you know that the evaporator is leaking without the need of a sniffer. If you did need to replace the evaporator, it would require the removal of the instrument panel.

As long as all of the settings work correctly, airflow modes, blower speed, etc. I think your A/C control head is probably fine. The only thing I would say to double check is to see if the temperature goes through it's full range, hot to cold. Start at full cold and move the knob a little at a time and see how it feels. You can pick up a little thermometer pretty cheap if you need one.

So, based on what I found on the parts diagrams and the illustrations in the repair guides, I still think you most likely have a problem with the temperature door itself. Although the door is made as one piece, it still has two separate sealing areas. The duct work seems to be made for a dual zone system as well as single zone.

I hope I have covered everything you asked, if not hit me up again and I'll try to get you what you need. Thanks.

Nice call on the Schrader valves. Completely slipped my mind. Some can be replaced but some types require the whole line to be replaced.

According to my parts catalog, both low and high side valves are the same part number. GM part number 3041827.

That doesn't look like the compressor is leaking to me. Porous aluminum will show that speckled pattern. Go ahead with the Schrader valve replacement. You'll need a way to recover the old refrigerant and pull a vacuum on the system before recharging the system.

Hi,

I noticed we haven't heard from you for a while. Have you been able to make any progress? We are interested in knowing.

Joe