ABS problem?

Do you mean when it gets down to 10 MPH or up to 10 mph? If you're slowing down with the brakes applied, and "false activation" occurs, meaning the anti-lock function engages when it isn't needed, the most common cause is rust build-up under one of the front wheel speed sensors. This is a magnetic sensor. With that type, it takes motion to generate signal pulses, and speed is a variable in the strength of that signal.

The size of the air gap is also a variable. When rust builds up under the sensor, it pushes that sensor away from the toothed tone ring. That results in a weaker signal. That signal also decreases as wheel speed decreases, often to the point the signal is too weak to be seen by the computer. That's why all ABS systems stop functioning below about 9 to 15 mph.

Due to that increased air gap, the computer stops seeing a usable signal from one of the wheel speed sensors at too high a speed. It assumes that wheel is locking up, so it activates to try to get that wheel going again. My experience has been it's always a front sensor that develops this problem. There won't be any diagnostic fault codes because as far as the computer is concerned, it is functioning properly.

This photo is the best I can find to show the sensor on the side of the wheel bearing assembly. You'll need to raise the front tires off the ground.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/jack-up-and-lift-your-car-safely

If you check out this article:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-abs-wheel-speed-sensor

The third photo down is of your wheel bearing assembly. The white arrow is pointing to the Allen head bolt that must be removed, then the sensor can be wiggled up and out. Expect it to put up a fight due to rust.

Once the sensor is removed, flip it over and it will look like the second photo. The blue arrow is pointing to the mounting surface that must be cleaned of all rust and scale. A less common but different cause of this false activation is rust build up or metal chips sticking to the tip of the magnet, (purple arrow). Scrape that clean too as long as you're in there.

If you have a scanner that can access the ABS Computer, use it to display live data and watch the four-wheel speeds on a test drive. They will all be very nearly identical at higher speeds. As you slow down, you're looking for the one that suddenly drops to "0 mph" while the other three are still reading the correct speed, typically around 15 mph. You don't have to be applying the brakes to see those readings.

If you don't have a scanner, there's no easy way to know which sensor is responsible. Just plan on cleaning both front sensors since they've both had the same amount of time to develop that rust build up. You can also just clean one sensor first, then drive the vehicle to see if the problem is solved. If proper operation is restored, you can be done for now. When this happens the next time, clean the other front sensor first as that will be the logical best suspect next time.