A/C compressor not working?

When you say there is refrigerant in the system can you tell me the low side pressure when the system is off? Please go over this guide to help us see what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Please go over this guide and get back to us.

Low side pressure is 62 with outside temperature of 70.

Hello Ken,
also DTC codes
EATC module
B1263
B1259

So either of these codes can cause the problem you are having.

B1259 - Air Temperature Internal Sensor Circuit Failure

B1263 - Solar Radiation Sensor Circuit Failure

But I would turn the system on and check to see if you are getting power to the compressor first. Did you go over the guide above? This guide can help test the gry/wht wire at the compressor. Let me know.

Hi Ken,
I read the guide you sent and watched video
Low side pressure is 90 psi and clutch won't "kick in" on the compressor.
Blower runs and normal green lights are on the dash.
Swapped clutch and horn relay still no compressor kick in.

Low side now reads 53 with temp outside of 54,
Got two connectors apart but afraid to break low pressure connector.
Is there a trick to get it loose?
See pics.
Thanks Ken

I would start the engine and turn the AC on full, then open the refrigerant source and low side valve to see if the system will kick on. It looks like the system is low. Thanks for the images, plug the connector wire back in.

Hi Ken,
The compressor is not getting power using the test light with AC on.
Coil measures 3.3 olms.
What is my next step?

new code 2267.
still 1259 and 1263.

Did you try what I suggested? The code p2267 says you have water in the fuel. If you tried what I suggested I would replace the Air Temperature Internal Sensor. Here is the location.

2267 code is gone now.
The hot wire to the compressor had a cut (Taped it up) and now turns on the compressor. So, the system works.
I don't have any idea how much freon is in the system.
So, should I pull a vacuum and refill?
Thank you, Ken for the great advice.
Charlie

Sure, I would try that. Like I said I would turn the system on and open the low side valve to add refrigerant, the system seems low to me.

Hello Ken,
Got the sysyem vacuumed for 45 minutes,
Added 1 oz pag oil and 32 oz r134a
Low side kicks off at 50 psi and kicks on at 20 psi
Vent temp 44 to 50 degrees
Thanks for helping out,
Charlie

Hello Charlie,

So, the problem is fixed, correct?

Ken

Hi again Ken,
It takes a minute or two for the compressor to kick on after starting. If that is normal, then it works for now.
Latest images just now after running for 10 minutes.
Thanks for saving me some cash and getting a little smarter.
Charlie

Np, it is fun to learn :) the system is still to low please go over this video to show you how to get the system full.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EqdrBVb0sY

Please let us know what happens.

The Shrader valve was leaking on the high side.
Put in new shrader valves and vacuumed system again.
The sticker says 32 oz of r134a is needed or should I charge to Pressures instead?
Thanks Ken.

If the system says 32 ounces, then go with that, you should be good to go.

Here is a guide to help you check for leaks after the job is completed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-conditioner-leak-detection


Please go over this guide and get back to us.

No leaks found and holding pressure. Intermittent power from wiring harness to compressor.
Wire needs to be moved by hand and compressor might come on (see image).
Sometimes I hit it with a stick it kicks on.
Thanks Ken.
Have a good weekend,
Charlie

Yep, you can see at the electrical connector the wires look like they are broken. I would splice in a new pig tail connector which you should be able to get from Amazon.

Going to get the pigtail fixed by a freind that does that kind of thing.
High side shrader valve replaced and still leaks with the soap test.
Should I replace it again?
Thanks Ken

Sounds good, yes I would swap out the high side shrader valve you must have gotten a defective part the first time.

A/C leaked out and I went to Firestone with a coupon for $10..00 and they advise this.
AIR CONDITIONING $1,388.77
218630 ACCUMULATOR 1 $119.99 0.00
NC4011A CONDENSER 1 $367.99 0.00
REMOVE & REPLACE CONDENSER 1 0.00 $249.60
55111 HOSE ASSY /DISCHARGE SUC 1 $343.99 0.00
REMOVE & REPLACE AIR COND HOSE - ONE 1 0.00 $115.20
ACCUMUATER LABOR 1 0.00 $192.00
A/C EVACUATE AND RECHARGE R134A CALIFORNIA $309.67
Symptom:
R134A PER OUNCE 32 $3.99 0.00
A/C SYSTEM DYE 1 $10.00
AIR CONDITIONING 134A SERVICE CALIFORNIA 1 Labor $171.99
Recommended Parts:$969.65
labor $728.79
Tax $94.54
Subtotal: 1,698.44
Total $1,792.98
I think I can do the job myself to save a lot of money.
Can you give advice Ken?
Thanks,
Charlie

Wow, it looks like they are replacing a lot of parts, I would use this guide can find the leak myself instead of such a large bill.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-conditioner-leak-detection

Please go over this guide and get back to us.

Hello Ken,
Finally got the new hose assy /discharge suc (#55111),
New Condenser (#NC4011A) and
New Accumulator (#218630).
I want to replace the parts before it gets too hot oustide.
What is the best proceedure you have?
Thank you,
Charlie

Please start a new thread for each part you want to replace.

ok