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A/C clutch cable keeps breaking at plug on A/C clutch from heat and vibration

Tiny
KIWASABI1
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 213,000 MILES
Hi 2CarPros,

Last year my A/C clutch cable kept breaking at the plug on the A/C clutch. We resoldered it back together very well at one point and even replaced the whole cable with a junk yard part, soldering that much higher up the wire and it ended up breaking in the same place near the plug. When I touched the wire after it broke, it was quite hot. My question is, should I try another new cable and perhaps use some hot melt glue to see if it'll hold better? Or am I just treating the symptom here, which would be a symptom of a failing A/C compressor since it's over 20 years old? If it's vibrating and heating up the wire that badly, perhaps it's time to just replace the whole A/C compressor. What do you think? When I had it all wired together the A/C was working quite well. Also the refrigerant was at a good level, 34 PSI (I had heard various things about what level is fine. At 30 PSI it was not cold at all. I was later told 35 PSI is alright for imports and raised it to 34 PSI).

Thanks in advance for your help.

Adam
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Friday, March 5th, 2021 AT 3:34 PM

22 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

There could be an issue with the compressor clutch drawing too much power. You may want to consider replacing just that. There is an air gap in the clutch that can be too wide causing more of a power draw, so check that as well.

____________________________

Here are the directions for replacing the clutch on the compressor. The directions include the air gap specifications, so check yours first before replacing. That is the only thing I can think of that may cause it to draw more power. The pics below correlate with the directions.

___________________________

2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS L4-2350cc 2.4L SOHC MFI
Procedures
Vehicle Heating and Air Conditioning Compressor Clutch Service and Repair Procedures
PROCEDURES
Note: This article is updated by TSB 03-55-007

pic 1

DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY

Required Special Tools:
- MB991367: Special Spanner
- MB991386: Pin

DISASSEMBLY SERVICE POINT

pic 2

NUT REMOVAL
Use special tools MB991367 and MB991386 to hold the magnetic clutch, and remove the nut.

ASSEMBLY SERVICE POINTS

pic 3

>>ABCDEF
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Friday, March 5th, 2021 AT 9:56 PM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
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The A/C Compressor is 213,000 miles old too. So I'm just wondering if I am better off replacing that too. Looks like I could get an OEM clutch for $90.00 or an aftermarket A/C Compressor for $96.00. If I replace just the clutch, shouldn't I expect the A/C Compressor itself to go bad sometime in the next 50,000 miles or so too?
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Saturday, March 6th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

I understand your concerns. At that mileage and the prices you listed, I would replace the entire unit. There is a good chance the old compressor will fail just from age/miles.

Here is some general info to help with the replacement. The attached pics below correlate with the directions.

___________________________________________

2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS L4-2350cc 2.4L SOHC MFI
Compressor Assembly and Tension Pulley
Vehicle Heating and Air Conditioning Compressor HVAC Service and Repair Procedures Compressor Assembly and Tension Pulley
COMPRESSOR ASSEMBLY AND TENSION PULLEY
COMPRESSOR ASSEMBLY AND TENSION PULLEY

Compressor Assembly And Tension Pulley

pic 1

REMOVAL SERVICE POINTS

pic 2

DRIVE BELT REMOVAL
1. Loosen the nut "A" for holding.
2. Loosen the bolt "B" for adjustment.
3. Remove the drive belt.

DISCHARGE HOSE AND SUCTION HOSE DISCONNECTION

CAUTION: Seal the hoses completely, otherwise the compressor oil and receiver will absorb water vapor easily, possibly damaging the compressor and deteriorating performance.

Plug the disconnected hose and compressor nipple to prevent foreign matter from getting into them.

COMPRESSOR REMOVAL
When removing the compressor, be careful not to spill the compressor oil.

INSTALLATION SERVICE POINT

COMPRESSOR INSTALLATION

If a new compressor is installed, first adjust the amount of oil according to the procedures described below, and then install the compressor.
1. Measure the amount [X cu. Cm (X fl. Oz)] of oil within the removed compressor.
2. Drain (from the new compressor) the amount of oil calculated according to the following formula, and then install the new compressor.

New compressor oil amount
100 cu. Cm - X cu. Cm = Y cu. Cm (3.4 fl. Oz - X fl. Oz = Y fl. Oz)

NOTE: Y cu. Cm (Y fl. Oz) indicates the amount of oil in the refrigerant line, the condenser, the evaporator, etc.

NOTE: When replacing the following parts at the same times as the compressor, subtract the rated oil amount of the each part from Y cu. Cm (Y fl. Oz) and discharge from the new compressor.

Quantity:
- Evaporator: 60 cu. Cm (2.0 fl. Oz)
- Condenser: 15 cu. Cm (0.5 fl. Oz)
- Suction hose: 10 cu. Cm (0.3 fl. Oz)
- Receiver: 10 cu. Cm (0.3 fl. Oz)

____________________________

Let me know if you have questions.

Take care,

Joe
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Saturday, March 6th, 2021 AT 5:35 PM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
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So I've been ignoring this problem since it hasn't been hot enough to need the A/C. But it's getting to be that time again. I've decided to replace the A/C Compressor, as its 218,000 miles old and drawing too much power from failing components. My question would be, should I be doing a complete system replacement at this point? Condenser and other parts too? We temporarily fixed this problem way too many times last summer and now I want to do this the right way so it will last many years from now.
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Wednesday, April 28th, 2021 AT 4:08 AM
Tiny
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I guess the other thing I'd consider replacing is the blower motor assembly, as I hear that making buzzing noises when it's on setting 3 and 4. So yeah, basically I'd want to replace anything else in the A/C system that could go bad soon. Evaporator and Condenser as well. So what else should I replace besides Compressor, Condenser, Evaporator, and Blower Motor Assembly?
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Wednesday, April 28th, 2021 AT 4:29 AM
Tiny
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Hi,

There isn't a lot left other than switches, high and low pressure.

Joe
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Wednesday, April 28th, 2021 AT 5:11 PM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
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Receiver Drier and Expansion Valve were two other parts I saw recommended to replace with the A/C Compressor.
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Thursday, April 29th, 2021 AT 11:26 PM
Tiny
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Both the expansion valve and receiver dryer would be a good idea. I swear I read you already replaced them. Ugh! My eyes must be getting bad.

The receiver-drier is a filter, so yes, replace it. The expansion valve contains an orifice that can get plugged as well.

Joe
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Friday, April 30th, 2021 AT 6:43 PM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
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Alright I've got an update. The A/C clutch cable kept overheating and breaking at the plug because 1) the pressure switch was bad and the A/C Compressor wasn't cycling properly 2) A/C Compressor was failing and drawing too much power. Replaced both of those and so far the new cable we soldered on is holding up.

Now after running the A/C for an hour or so twice on a 95 degree day I've got something leaking down from the dashboard onto the passenger side foot mat. When touched it leaves a film on the finger and is oily, it isn't just condensation / water. Is this the Evaporator Core failing? You can see the puddle from the leak in the attached image.
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Wednesday, June 23rd, 2021 AT 8:27 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Chances are it is from the evaporator drain being plugged. The only other thing could be coolant from the heater core. Does it have a sweet smell like coolant?

There is a slight chance it is oil from the A/C, but not as much as I'm seeing in the pic. I honestly feel the drain for the evaporator is clogged and it's backing up.

If you open the hood of the vehicle, you should see the drain on the passenger side of the firewall. I believe it somewhat low. It will simply be a black rubber hose. Once you locate it, move it around and take something to clean it out inside. If a bunch of water starts coming out, that's the problem.

There was actually a service bulletin on this years ago. Dirt was getting into the housing and causing the drain to plug. The repair included installing a cabin air filter.

Take a look at the bulletin. I attached it below. This was done under warranty when the vehicle was new. However, the directions are listed below showing how it's done and the part numbers for the new filter.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

See pics below.
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Wednesday, June 23rd, 2021 AT 8:57 PM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
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Very comprehensive and impressive response, thank you. I did a Manufacturer Recall Search for my VIN number and unfortunately it did not have the Recall you mentioned. I did at one point buy a Cabin Air Filter and found out what you pointed out, that the slot wasn't actually cut for one on my model for some reason. I still have it lying around so I'll have to do this sometime soon.

Can we rule out the heater core based on the fact that it was the A/C that caused the leak? Is the heater core used for the A/C?

I don't really have anything useful to say about the smell of the fluid. Just that it definitely wasn't only water. I'm going to look more into the Evaporator Core Drain Plug and see if that's the issue. Sounds like a potentially simple fix. Although since the car is at 220,000 miles now I would imagine the Evaporator Core is beginning to fail just like everything else that's original on the car. Thank you very much for your invaluable input as always. I'll follow up when I've checked out the drain plug.

Adam
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Wednesday, June 23rd, 2021 AT 11:28 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Adam,

You are very welcome. The heater core isn't really part of the A/C system. Also, you would recognize it as a coolant by smell and color.

If the condenser is leaking, you will lose freon which will eventually lead to it not working or needing recharged. Thus, I have a feeling it is a plugged hose.

If possible, let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe
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Thursday, June 24th, 2021 AT 7:57 PM
Tiny
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We replaced the condenser as well. We just didn't replace the Evaporator Core because that's a 5 or 6 hour job and it's still functioning.

For anyone else reading, I've attached the service manual diagram of the location of the A/C drain plug. It's actually on the driver's side between the firewall and the battery. There's a video on Youtube titled "ALL WET! - Mitsubishi Eclipse AC Drain" that shows it pretty clearly. It's just a tiny little white plastic tube sticking out. He had to remove the air intake hose to get to it. He used a shop vac to vacuum it out but it didn't really seem to do anything. I've got a little couple foot long drain cleaning snake I can try sticking in there to see if I can move anything loose. Some other mechanics were saying to replace the gasket on the end of the drain pipe. Anyway it's not a removable rubber hose from what I can tell, just a few inch long PVC pipe sticking out just enough to dump the water away from anything important. So should I just try using the snake on it and see if anything comes out? I agree with your initial assessment about the condensation drain being clogged up based on more reading. Very common problem for this car. So it's not coolant from the heater core or oil from the A/C system. Just very nasty water from a clogged drain line.
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Thursday, June 24th, 2021 AT 9:01 PM
Tiny
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Thanks for the update. Could you let me know if you are able to open up the hose for it to drain?

Thanks,

Joe
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Thursday, June 24th, 2021 AT 10:23 PM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
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I haven't gotten to the drain plug yet. I'm thinking maybe if I get the cabin air filter done and use the A/C a lot, that it might force out some of the gunk on its own. This may be what was going on when it was spilling out onto the passenger side floor, although not in the spot I'd want it to.

Anyway the place where the cabin air filter goes is completely sealed up. The pictures you sent made it sound like there are just a few plastic tabs to break. But it appears the cover for my tray for my cabin air filter is completely solid plastic. What am I missing?
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Sunday, June 27th, 2021 AT 5:57 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

There is no pressure in there other than the specific gravity weight of the water. Chances are, it won't clear itself.

As far as your other question, you are correct. The unit is solid. You need to cut into it. See the pic below.

Let me know if I can help.

Take care,

Joe

See pic.
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Sunday, June 27th, 2021 AT 8:59 PM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
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Alright I'll still try to snake out the A/C drain plug. It just seems really hard to access and such a small tube to try and clear out.

Do I have the correct type of Cabin Air Filter (pic attached)? From videos and articles online it seems like I should have one with some sort of plastic bracket that snaps into the slot. I'm not sure what to do with this flimsy sort of pillow looking one that I got, unless the bracket is already in my car, which I doubt.
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Sunday, June 27th, 2021 AT 9:45 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

That doesn't look correct. Check this out on Amazon. This is the correct part number for the filter. It comes with a frame.

https://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-MR500360-Cabin-Air-Filter/dp/B007XL7TB2

Let me know if that helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below from Amazon. The OEM part number is MR500360.
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Sunday, June 27th, 2021 AT 10:00 PM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
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Thanks, that's the part I need. I ordered it. Looks like the Cabin Air Filter I got is the correct one for when you've already got that plastic tray to put it in. Since my car doesn't have that built in, I do need this OEM Cabin Air Filter with the tray included for the first time I install the filter.
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Sunday, June 27th, 2021 AT 10:35 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Yes, that is correct. That is the part number they provided for the bulletin.

Let me know how things turn out for you.

Joe
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Monday, June 28th, 2021 AT 7:04 PM

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