No crank, no start and keeps ruining starter relay?

1999 TOYOTA COROLLA

164,000 MILES • 1.8L • 4 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC

369369

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4 POSTS
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I have the car listed above VE (3-speed automatic) with 164k miles, likely with the original starter. It was well-kept and running fine until i left it undriven for 2 months. When i tried to start it again, there was no crank or start, even though the battery was fully charged. I discovered a bad starter relay (28300-10020) and a faulty headlamp relay (90987-02006).

I replaced the starter relay, and after using squirt of starter fluid (car was sitting long), it started right up and ran fine for 3 days. On the 4th day, the issue returned: no start, no crank. I took out the starter relay i tested it in my other car, that is a sienna, and it worked fine. I reinstalled the same starter relay back in the corolla, shifted to neutral, and it started without issue. I started it two more times in neutral without problems, but again, on the 4th attempt: no start, no crank. The starter relay got defective again.

The battery reads 12.7v, and the starter gets 12.17v at the connection (stud and bolt). When i remove the bad relay, turn the key to on, and jump pins #3 and #5 of the relay socket, the car starts up strong.

I’m not experienced with electrical work and am unsure why the starter relay keeps failing after 3-4 starts. Could the starter be drawing too much current, or is there another issue? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Mar 23, 2025 at 11:22 PM

BORIS K

✓ASE Certified Mechanic
836 POSTS

Hello,

It sounds like you might have an issue with the Park/Neutral switch
Suggest checking during next no crank if the is 12V present at pin 1 of the starter relay socket, check in Park and Neutral

Also check 12V supply at pin 2 and 12V out at pin 3 of Park/Neutral switch.
These tests can be done using voltmeter or test light.

See image below

How to:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter
and
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Cheers, Boris

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Mar 25, 2025 at 8:27 AM

369369

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Hi Boris,

Thanks for your message — I’ll get back to you with my findings in 2 days.

In the meantime, I need some help sorting out the Neutral Safety Switch wiring. From above, I can hardly see the wires, even after moving things around, and from below, I can’t get a clear view either. I’ll have to jack up the car and remove the connector from underneath to get a closer look at the connector itself.

Is there a detailed schematic diagram or picture available for the connector and the wiring, so I can identify which wire (by color) goes to which pin?

As for testing with the multimeter, how would you like me to probe? Should I back-probe with the connector plugged in, or should I separate the connector and test the pin-to-socket? (The key will be in the "ON" position both ways.)

Thanks in advance for your help!

Mar 26, 2025 at 12:03 AM

BORIS K

✓ASE Certified Mechanic
836 POSTS

Hello,

The park/Neutral switch is easily accessed from below, located to the left of the transmission, facing forward.

The continuity test through the switch should be done with the switch unplugged.
Use a voltmeter for this.

Checks are done on pin 2+3(large), we should have continuity through the switch when either in Park or Neutral.

See pin allocation in diagram below.

A video, this one is 4-speed as pins 5+6 are used
https://youtu.be/6FtdT2omGQ4?si=PjztDilpHzyS2ogv

Cheers, Boris

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Mar 26, 2025 at 3:29 AM

369369

MEMBER
4 POSTS

Hi Boris,

Thanks for the diagram, it helps a lot. (I will have time to work on the car over the weekend.)
I will check the power supply to the neutral safety switch as you first suggested.

As for the video and checking continuity:
He was getting all kinds of fluctuating ohm readings. I will check but what would be the correct range?

In another video, he said that the NNS was not the issue despite the very high ohm values he was getting. (The starter was.)

Let me ask you this:
So, let's say the NNS is faulty. If i connect wire #2 & #3, that will bypass the NNS if i leave the connector unplugged?

(I would only do it if everything else fails. But with my Corolla, bypassing it should still be safe. Unlike most other cars, you can’t shift into Drive when the car has not started, not even into Neutral. You have to pry off a cover, reach into the hole with a screwdriver, and press a button, and then only you can switch to Neutral or Reverse, any other gear. ALSO, When you are about the turn the car off, you can't leave it in Drive because the car won’t allow you to remove the key unless it's in Park. So as far as I am concerned, bypassing would be just fine on this vehicle).

Mar 27, 2025 at 2:07 AM

STRAILER

✓ASE Certified Mechanic
54,503 POSTS

To me it sounds like you have a bad spot on the starter armature. When the ignition switch is in the crank position do you have 12 volts (power) at the starter trigger wire?

Please go over this guide and video:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YRW8fyNudY&t

Please go over these guides and get back to us.

Mar 31, 2025 at 10:54 AM

369369

MEMBER
4 POSTS

Hey Ken,

Yes, the trigger switch got 12.17V.

In the meantime, I replaced the starter. All is well now.

Just to recap (what I still can't explain): the starter relays lasted for 3-4 startups then they were gone. One after another. (the starter started up strong though, with jumper wire in the place of the starter relay).

Now with the new starter the current relay is fine. (it does not get damaged anymore)

Apr 4, 2025 at 9:34 PM

STRAILER

✓ASE Certified Mechanic
54,503 POSTS

When the starter goes bad it will pull too many amps which the relay cannot handle well, this is why you get the strange behavior. Glad you could get it fixed, thanks for letting us know. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Apr 5, 2025 at 11:37 AM

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