Code P1345

Tiny
MOSSBACK49
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
Bought the vehicle listed above with engine code P1345, bought it cheap. Replaced crank sensor and cam sensor. Plus replaced the crank sensor connector. Engine runs smoother at idle, rpm's dropped to 7.5 from 1100. Waiting on the codes to clear as the catalytic converter is still INC. Now runs rough when driven some miles and then come to a stop sign or red light. Also, there is a pronounced whistle like air passing and vibrating something at speed, tone changes with speed from high to low. Other than that the engine idles smooth in park. Thought the whistling was from the tires but they have a different song.
Wednesday, July 1st, 2020 AT 2:24 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,055 POSTS
Hi,

The cam/crank code could be a few things including a stretched timing chain. I attached a flow chart for the diagnostics of the code. If possible, give them a try.

As far as the whistling sound, could it be an engine vacuum leak you are hearing? Here is a link that explains how to check for one:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, July 1st, 2020 AT 8:41 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
Joe is correct about the cam/timing code. I'm on my 7th Blazer/Jimmy now, so I've gotten to know them. For the whistling, check that your doors are closed all the way and the door seals are completely sealing up. Those seals get dried out over the years and quit sealing, creating that annoying sound. Also the hinge pins and bushings get worn out on those front doors, making it tough to close them fully and correctly. Make sure that those pins and bushings are intact. If not, you can get new ones for cheap on Amazon.

Hope this helps.

Harry.
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Thursday, July 2nd, 2020 AT 4:48 AM
Tiny
MOSSBACK49
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Okay, this SUV, according to the VIN search was in the flood zone during Hurricane Harvey, a few years back. A lot of the electrical plugs and some wiring has be replaced. However, the crank sensor did not look to be new, although the cam sensor was new. Almost everything on the engine looks new, hoses, plug wires, all plastic and a lot of the aluminum parts are nice and shiny, not dull from age and heat.(I have a call into the dealer that bought the car at auction (I think to ask what all was done to it). It also has a newly Catalytic Converter installed last year. This thing's monitor is showing INC right now. Anyway I have a OBDII, read the info as follows on Freeze Frame:
DTC FRZF.P1345 (changed out CKS/CMS and CKS connector): Fuel Sys 1 and 2. OL:
Load PCT.4.3;
ETC (F).91:
Shrift 1 and 2.0.0 each:
Long FT2.0.0;
MAP (in Hg). 10.9;
RPM (min).790;
VSS.0
MAF (lb/min). 0.99;
IP.0

Cat Mon. INC: All other monitors okay or on.
That whistling noise is coming from the engine. Noticeable at 55, increases at 60 mph then fades off. I haven't checked the gaskets on the throttle body yet. It seems to be some sort of resonance.

I have driven about 80-85 miles, mostly highway miles taking my wife to work the past two days. How many miles does it take to reset the Cat monitor so I can see if the codes delete? I've tried using the OBDII and just disconnecting the battery. Doesn't work that way.
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Thursday, July 2nd, 2020 AT 10:11 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,055 POSTS
Hi,

I see the engine temperature was 91°F is that correct? As far as the monitor not being reset, it could take another mile or another 100 miles. They have to run through specific drive cycles.

I have a feeling the noise you hear is a vacuum leak.

Let me know.

Joe
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Thursday, July 2nd, 2020 AT 8:16 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
Well if you're 100% sure that it's coming from the engine area, then let's do this little diagnostic trick. You're basically going to start the engine and start spraying carburetor cleaner around vacuum hoses and gaskets until you hear a change in the engine. A change indicates a leak. Here's our how to guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

On Blazers, I like to start with the vacuum line on the back of the engine, near the top and middle. Its particularly problematic. If your 4x4 isn't working correctly (ie the front axle doesn't lock like it's supposed to) it's probably in that hose. Spray there, the throttle body area, and around the intake. If you find a leak in a gasket area, to tighten the bolts/nuts and see if that helps.

Hopefully this info gets you going somewhere. Keep us posted.
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Sunday, July 5th, 2020 AT 8:51 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
One thing I do notice is the fuel trims are 0 on both banks for short and long terms. A vacuum leak normally will cause positive trims, as the computer is putting extra fuel in to compensate for extra unmetered air getting in. Could the whistling possibly be coming from behind the dash? If so, try switching the air in and out of recirc mode by going back and forth between max AC and normal AC. See if that makes a difference.
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:01 AM
Tiny
MOSSBACK49
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Okay, alternator crashed the other day and after installing a new alternator, idler pulley cks and connector and cms and fixed a vacuum hose leak to the EGR, I did a road test. Almost home, I made a right turn and the ignition alarm sounded until I straighten out my turn. No warning lights lit up save the check engine which I haven't cleared due to two monitors still incomplete. That ignition alarm sounded the day the alternator crashed as well. Is this alternator bad? Put a screwdriver to the casing and listened, sounds rough but turns smoothly before installing. The whining noise I wrote about previously disappeared with the new idler pulley, found the vacuum leak in the small hose to the EGR. Now my concern is this alarm sounding. Worries me the new alternator is bad.
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Friday, July 10th, 2020 AT 9:43 AM
Tiny
MOSSBACK49
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
PS. I never did find that flow chart that was suppose to be included with y'alls reply.
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Friday, July 10th, 2020 AT 9:44 AM
Tiny
4DRTOM
  • MECHANIC
  • 467 POSTS
Hello,

I'm Tom, I will go review this string and find that for you. Sorry for the delay on that.
Tom
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Saturday, July 11th, 2020 AT 10:05 AM
Tiny
4DRTOM
  • MECHANIC
  • 467 POSTS
Okay, so your needing to know how to figure out if your timing chain is stretched, Is that correct? Besides this new alarm thing going off has the original issue of poor performance handled with the repair of the vacuum leak? If So, for your new issue starting a new question about the new issue would be best so we here are answering the correct thing for the heading on the question. It keeps us all on the same page
Let me know.
Thanks,
Tom
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Saturday, July 11th, 2020 AT 10:23 AM

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