2013 Ford Expedition 5.4 - Random stall while driving progressed to crank-no-start, no useful codes?

2013 FORD EXPEDITION
155,000 MILES • 5.4L • V8 • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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SQURLDOG
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My 2013 Ford Expedition 5.4L originally started with a random stalling problem while driving. It would shut off unexpectedly, I’d have to pull over, turn the key fully off, and then it would usually restart and run fine again for a while. Over time the stalls became more frequent, but it would still usually restart.

Then while it was at a mechanic, it reached its first true crank-no-start condition. No repair work was actually done there because the issue was too inconsistent and there was nothing reliable to catch while it was at the shop, so I ended up picking it back up. Since then it has progressively gotten worse. It rarely starts now, and the last few times it did, it ran rough, sputtered, and died. There are no useful codes unless something is unplugged during testing. I’ve already replaced the OEM crank sensor, both OEM cam sensors, OEM FPDM, and relays, plus done fuse/relay testing. Looking for direction before I keep throwing parts at it.
Apr 7, 2026 at 12:01 AM
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STRAILER
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Yep, this is the most difficult problem to find, so no codes correct? I have seen the MAF sensor cause this, is the sensor loses the readings to the PCM it will shut down the engine, I have also seen a shorted ignition coil or injector cause this along with the ignition switch. But I would try unplugging the MAF sensor to see if anything changes beside the code that will be thrown. Also, when it shuts down what does the engine lose fuel or spark? It can be the fuel pump itself not the FPCM. Please go over this video to help see which system is failing when the engine stalls.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXLJbuAZ4CE&t

You can also use a data logger or scan tool with record/playback to help see which system is failing. Like I say these problems are tough, but we can get it fixed with a little detective work. Please go over the video and get back to us. Ken
Apr 7, 2026 at 10:45 AM
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SQURLDOG
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I attempted the items from the video link you sent. I have video that I am uploading to go along with the things I tried. Hopefully the video helps paint a good picture of where things stand.
Apr 11, 2026 at 12:55 AM
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STRAILER
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Yep, the engine looks like it has a mechanical failure. We better step back and do a compression test to see if the engine is hurt or not, this video will show you how.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOxIm1F8AW0

Your video helps as well. Please take note on what the spark plugs look like in each cylinder when removed. You are looking for the one or more that does not look like the others. These will be the cylinders having the issue. Also, lets run the codes to see which ones are stored.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBCpCWEFnTg

Please go over these guides and get back to us.
Apr 11, 2026 at 7:54 AM
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SQURLDOG
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I will be sure to check the guides out and report back with what the results are. I will say, I did replace the spark plugs with OEM plugs when this all started (6-8 months ago). It seemed to help initially but obviously that didn't last. However, I did want to make sure to mention that spark plugs have been been recently changed.
I will be sure to report back with findings from what you sent. And I appreciate your assistance!

One other note, I have the MX OBD Bluetooth scanner and FORscan app. There are no DTC codes thrown. Which has really made all of this all the more frustrating.
Apr 11, 2026 at 2:19 PM
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STRAILER
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Yep, this is why I think it is a mechanical issue, the compression test should help us see what the problem is.
Apr 12, 2026 at 8:21 AM
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SQURLDOG
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Good evening! I am very sorry to take this long to get back to you! Between life and trying to figure out how to do a compression test (Lol, but seriously) it simply took a minute to be able to get back.

So the results are very off. My initial run through, numbers were almost withing the boundaries, with the lowest one being around 150. Then that same valve that was lowest initially, turned way bad. On a second round just to double check numbers, the 5th (I believe that's the correct number) cylinder (driver's side furthest from the driver) tested around 35. And has consistently tested in the 30's since. Other valves have seemed to for the most part held their relative numbers.
I can definitely provide details of other cylinders test results, but the one dropping to 30 and staying there I figured would be most helpful.

Again, sorry to just get back to you and I definitely appreciate the assistance!
Jun 6, 2026 at 2:44 AM
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STRAILER
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No worries, yep you have found the problem, but I would check the valve spring for the low cylinder to make sure it is not broken, you will need to remove the valve cover. Use a flashlight because the broken coil can be hidden down low or up high.
Jun 6, 2026 at 10:44 PM
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