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Started with the wipers going out and then various exterior lights?

Tiny
BALROG1008
  • MEMBER
  • 2012 BMW 335
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 78,500 MILES
The issue started with the wipers going out and then various exterior lights. Not all the lights, just some. Both headlights, one side halo, center brake light, one side rear parking light, and both fenders running lights. Front left turn signal out, right rear turn signal out.

No other vehicle system seems to be affected. The wiper relay was bad, and one fuse (30A) was blown. I replaced both and the wipers started functioning, however, when I started to back out of the driveway with the wipers on, I heard a pop, and the wipers froze.

What module controls both the exterior lights and the wipers? Or is it separate issues?

I originally thought that I might have a rodent problem, but both the dealership and the insurance appraiser did not find any evidence of rodent damage.

I'm going to remove the covers to get to the wiper motor. Any suggestions on how to test it?

Also, I was reading another post at another site regarding the foot module located on the driver's side that controls exterior lights (among other things) and that this module is notorious for going bad, but it does not control the wipers from what I have read.
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Tuesday, March 14th, 2023 AT 8:17 PM

23 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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The wipers are run by the front control module so you will need to make a new question for that because we only handle one problem per thread. For the lighting issue it does sound like the footwell module is out, but to be sure you may perform a CAN scan. You can get a CAN scanner (Controller Area Network) from Amazon.

Here is a video to show you how:

https://youtu.be/u-4syLc-ifQ

Here is how you can replace the footwell module in the images below in case you need it. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens. You can get a preprogrammed unit by searching Google or Ebay.
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Wednesday, March 15th, 2023 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
BALROG1008
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I used my scanner to pull any codes, but none did. Is there another means to test the footwell control module? Or would I need to pull it out?
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Wednesday, March 15th, 2023 AT 8:35 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Was the code read done by a CAN scanner or a normal engine codes reader?
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Thursday, March 16th, 2023 AT 10:55 AM
Tiny
BALROG1008
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Normal car scan reader. I need this CAN reader? I didn't realize there is a difference. Okay, I'll see what I can do.
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Thursday, March 16th, 2023 AT 11:15 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, you will like the CAN scanner much better because it does the entire car.
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Friday, March 17th, 2023 AT 10:48 AM
Tiny
BALROG1008
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Okay, I got the CAN scanner today. I plugged it in and looked around a bit but I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for. The scanner is VDIA GTOOL model VD30.
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Monday, March 20th, 2023 AT 5:45 PM
Tiny
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I did notice the scanner was reading 11.11v with the battery scan. Should it not be around 13 or 14? Could the battery be the problem?
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Monday, March 20th, 2023 AT 6:04 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yes, with the car not running it should be about 12.4 volts and engine running it should be about 14 volts. It sounds like you have a battery going bad which can cause all kinds of electrical issues. Also, I would check the diodes of the alternator to make sure it is not generating AC voltage.

This guide will show you how:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Please go over this guide and report back.

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Tuesday, March 21st, 2023 AT 11:31 AM
Tiny
BALROG1008
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Okay, performed the tests as the article teaches. Battery was at 12.5v with vehicle off. When I started the vehicle, the volts jumped to 14.4 and when the rpms went to 1500 or so the volts went up to 14.6. I then turned on the AC to max, but the volts stayed the same. I then plugged the CAN scanner in and went to the battery and it read 11.68v. Not sure what to think of that.
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Tuesday, March 21st, 2023 AT 2:04 PM
Tiny
BALROG1008
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I just checked the battery again. 12.2v and 30 or so minutes ago it was 12.4v. It seems to be dropping. I'm going to wait an hour and test it again.
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Tuesday, March 21st, 2023 AT 3:06 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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So, the battery reads 14.4 volts when running via the voltmeter correct? Try the scanner on another car to make sure it is working properly. Also, if the battery keeps dropping in surface voltage, I would replace it.
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Wednesday, March 22nd, 2023 AT 4:49 PM
Tiny
BALROG1008
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I apologize for the delay with responding. I have replaced the battery and registered it with the car. The FRM is still showing two codes though. One is the 'battery exhausted' and the other is 'terminal 30 relay fault'. I erased the codes but they came back but the battery exhausted code was under history as opposed to active. The other code with terminal 30 remains. So I replaced the terminal 30 relay but still throwing that code. Half the vehicle's lights are not functioning and I cannot believe that half the light bulbs/LEDs just burned out at the same time. Are there fuses for these lights?
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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2023 AT 11:52 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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It sounds like the terminal 30B relay is not working. I would swap it out to see if that fixes it. The relay is located in the front fuse panel under the hood. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.
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Thursday, May 4th, 2023 AT 11:10 AM
Tiny
BALROG1008
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Okay, I changed out the relay in the engine compartment fuse box. No change, however, I did a rescan and realized I gave you the wrong info. The DTC is 9CA9 from the FRM - Terminal 30A connection faulty. It was 30A not 30B. Sorry about that.
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Thursday, May 4th, 2023 AT 7:49 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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The DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) 9CA9 is specific to BMW vehicles and refers to a fault in the Footwell Module (FRM).

Here is how to change out the Footwell Module which these cars had problems with. You can get a preprogrammed unit by searching Google or Ebay. The module is on the driver's side kick panel area. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.
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Friday, May 5th, 2023 AT 10:37 AM
Tiny
BALROG1008
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I removed the FRM from the car and sent it off to Bimmerscan to have them take a look at it and they found some corrosion around a few capacitors so I bought a used FRM from Ebay and sent that one to them and they were able to reprogram it for my car. I installed that FRM with no issues, however, that did not fix the problem with the exterior lights. I then bought a replacement reverse light and new side marker lights and installed them. No dice. Those new lights do not function. That just confirms to myself that the lights themselves are not the problem. So as a recap of what I have done to far -
*Replaced battery - registered the new battery with the car
*Checked the fuses for the FRM in the glove box.
*Pulled the terminal connection plate off the battery and checked for connection corrosion and ensured the connection was tight.
*Using the ANCEL scanner (model V6), registered the battery, reset the FRM, pulled the DTCs
*Replaced the original FRM and reprogrammed the replacement.

The codes that the FRM is listing are as follows -

9CB5 Present - FRM: Battery exhausted
9CA9 Present - FRM: Terminal 30A connection faulty

There are other codes but they are for each individual light that is not functioning.

I am at a loss as to where to go from here.
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Sunday, June 4th, 2023 AT 4:38 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Here are the wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works and which fuses to change for power. There is a trailer module that might be having an issue as well. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.
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Monday, June 5th, 2023 AT 9:51 AM
Tiny
BALROG1008
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The 2 codes that are being thrown by the FRM do not delete when I attempt to erase all codes. I am assuming that the Intelligent Battery System told the FRM that the battery was dying or exhausted. If that was the case then after installing and registering the new battery, shouldn't the IBS tell the FWM that the battery is good now? With the FRM always having those two codes, would that not mean that the IBS is not communicating with the FRM or that the IBS is not functioning correctly? Could the IBS not function right and not throw a code? Is there any way to test the IBS if it's not throwing a code? Could I unplug it?
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Monday, June 5th, 2023 AT 1:32 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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The FRM sounds bad, I would get a replacement, but a hard reboot might be worth doing. You can try a hard reboot which is done by removing the negative side of the battery, with the cable loose from the negative side of the battery, hold it to the positive terminal for 1 minute this will discharge the memory capacitors in the BCM and PCM allowing the system to reboot.
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Tuesday, June 6th, 2023 AT 7:55 AM
Tiny
BALROG1008
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So got the hard reboot done, but no luck. What's interesting is the lights seem to function for a second and then they don't. Is there a lights module in this car or is that the same as the FRM? The FRM that is currently in the car was a replacement that I sent to Bimmerscan and had it reprogramed.
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Tuesday, June 6th, 2023 AT 7:17 PM

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