How much different is to change front brake pads

There are totally different here are two videos show the difference between 2 and 4 wheel drive.

4 wheel drive

https://youtu.be/Gzgh_LVAIDE

2 wheel drive

https://youtu.be/p6smTU_SnPg

This guide will help walk you through the steps as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

If you are just changing the pads and rotors then you do not need to remove the brake line. In fact, you don't want to remove that or you will have to bleed the brakes now.

Here is a guide that will help with replacing the brakes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Here is a guide that will help with bleeding the brakes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Lastly here is the info from the manual on how to replace the brakes. They have you drain the fluid as they want you to replace it but that is not needed if you are going to flush the system after replacement.

Let us know if you have more questions. Thanks

Hello, I am Danny.

I believe you are referring to the anti-squeak shims. You will install one per pad and they can only be installed a certain way or they will not go on. I have attached a tutorial showing what is involved in brake pad installation.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

I have also attached a picture of the anti-squeak shims on the brake pads. Mind you the Toyota factory shims have two but your aftermarket pads only have one. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

Hello again.

Yes, that is correct. Hope this helped and thanks again for using 2CarPros.
Danny-

That's usually due to improper prep of the new pads. Professionals do a lot of things to prevent noises, and there's a lot of things we can accidentally do to cause them.

First of all, if you got any grease or assembly lube on the friction surfaces, it must be washed off with brake parts cleaner before those parts get hot. Once they get hot, the oils will soak into the porous linings and cast iron rotors, and never come out. Even fingerprint grease must be washed off.

The leading edges of the linings should be beveled to prevent the fingernails-on-the-blackboard squealing. I take a few passes with a flat file.

The flat file must also be used on the piston and on the caliper fingers where those parts contact the pad backing plates. You don't have to shine them up. You're just insuring there's no high points from dirt or rust. The pads have to sit squarely against those points, otherwise the normal vibration increases to the point you can hear it. Those contact points must also be lubricated with high-temperature brake grease such as "Rusty Lube" or a similar product. The caliper slides and mounting bolts must be coated with that too but don't get any on the rotors or linings.

If you didn't have the rotors machined, there's no telling what can happen. Replacement linings are rarely bonded to the backing plates in exactly the same position, so new ones can ride on ridges of rust left from the old pads. You must also scrub the center of the rotors and the mating surfaces on the hubs, and coat them with brake grease.

Your vehicle has excessive brake rotor run-out. That this means is the brake rotors are unparallel and so the brake pads are moving in and out which translated to the up and down feeling on your pedal. Several things cause this, normal corrosion between the rotor and hub, uneven torquing of the lug nuts and others.

If the rotors are still thick enough to safely be reused, judging by the brake specifications, then have them machined. Some repair centers have an on-the-car brake lathe that is the most effective and ensures a very smooth pedal.
If you prefer to do it yourself, you can always disassemble the brakes and take the rotors to a machine shop and have it done.

Good luck.

Hi,

Replacing pads and rotors isn't too hard. First, here is a link that explains in general how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

2003 Toyota Truck Tacoma 2WD L4-2.4L (2RZ-FE)
Front
Vehicle Brakes and Traction Control Disc Brake System Brake Pad Service and Repair Procedures Front
FRONT

pic 1

REPLACEMENT
1. REMOVE FRONT WHEEL

pic 2

2. INSPECT PAD LINING THICKNESS
Check the pad thickness through the caliper inspection hole and replace pads if not within specification.
Minimum thickness: 1.0 mm (0.039 inch)

pic 3

3. LIFT UP CALIPER
a. Remove the bottom side slide pin.
b. Lift up the caliper and suspend it securely.

HINT: Do not disconnect the flexible hose from the caliper.

4. REMOVE 2 BRAKE PADS WITH 4 ANTI-SQUEAL SHIMS
5. REMOVE PAD WEAR INDICATOR PLATE
6. REMOVE 4 PAD SUPPORT PLATES

NOTICE: The pad support plates can be used again provided that they have sufficient rebound, no deformation, cracks or wear, and have had all rust, dirt and foreign particles cleaned off.

7. CHECK DISC THICKNESS AND RUNOUT
8. INSTALL 4 PAD SUPPORT PLATES

pic 4

9. INSTALL NEW PADS

NOTICE: When replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims and wear indicator plates must be replaced together with the pads.

a. Install a pad wear indicator plate to the inner pad.
b. Install the 2 anti-squeal shims to each pad.

HINT: Apply disc brake grease to both sides of inner anti-squeal shims.

c. Install the inner pad so that the wear indicator plate is facing downward, then install the outer pad.

NOTICE: Do not allow oil or grease to get on the rubbing face.

pic 5

10. INSTALL CALIPER
a. Draw out a small amount of brake fluid from the reservoir.
b. Press in piston with a hammer handle or equivalent.

HINT: If the piston is difficult to push in, loosen the bleeder plug and push in the piston while letting some brake fluid escape.

c. Insert the brake caliper carefully so the boot is not wedged.
d. Install and torque the slide pin.
Torque: 88 Nm (900 kgf-cm, 65 ft. lbs.)
11. INSTALL FRONT WHEEL
Torque: 103 Nm (1,050 kgf-cm, 76 ft. lbs.)
12. DEPRESS BRAKE PEDAL SEVERAL TIMES
13. CHECK THAT FLUID LEVEL IS AT MAX LINE

___________________________________

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions or need help.

Take care and God Bless,

Joe

Hello, I'm Danny.

Here is the information you requested for front brake pad and rotor replacement. This is a tutorial for you to view on how to change front brake pads and rotors:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

You can save some extra money by buying the cheaper white box China brand brake pads and brake rotors. I've attached picture steps below on how to change the front brake pads on your truck. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.