ECM replacement and location

Hello,

Here is the ECM location and instructions on how to replace the unit in the diagrams below. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Have a look at a used unit or rebuilt to save money.

Does removal of battery from the car for repair will cause the car to require computer coding before the car can start the battery was removed when the mechanic carry out repairs on the transmission after the repair every thing was put back and the car refuse to start and the mechanic said the it must be code before it can start

No, it is not necessary to recode.

If equipped with smart key, after installation of the battery, you need to wait at least 10 seconds or more before attempting to start and it could be difficult to start at this time.

What happens when you try to start it? Im not sure what is meant by coding? Reprogramming? I dont think thats needed. Unless a new ecm was installed?

The code comes up for the shifting pressure control solenoid and I haven been told it is either the solenoid "D" electrical or the ecu. How can I know for sure? The code cleared the first time I had it checked but would not clear the second time. The car is a reconstructed total so no warrenty. Do I have a bad ECU?

You could have a dealer or trans shop test the solenoid with a scanner, if it energizes and de-energizes then it is the PCM, or wiring to it.

Transmission problem
2007 Toyota Corolla 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Is this a major repiar and where inside of or on the transmission is it located.

It's actually called the PCM (Powertrain Control Module), since it also controls the transmission.

Yes it is a major repair, the new PCM must be programmed by dealer with correct VIN.

They are located in either engine compartment or under glove box depending on model.

PCM failure is, for the most part, rare on Toyotas, so I would have the PCM tested by dealer before replacement, and if your car is out of warranty, they are usually around $1000 from Toyota.

Computer problem
2006 Toyota Corolla 4 cyl Automatic 72000 miles

I was driving on the highway and my cruise control light started blinking and stopped working. One hour later I got off the highway to get gas cause I was on flat empty. As I approached the gas station my check engine light came on, and although my car did not die, I lost power and it would not accelerate. I was able to pull a code(PCM Processor Failure). I had to get a tow truck to tow my car home(150 miles), when we got home 6 hours later the car started and ran fine and has been running perfect ever since. We have put about 200 miles on it, but do not trust it for extended trips.
What can I do?

Whenever you run the car out of gas (or close to out) the fuel pump can overheat. Gasoline cools the heat generated by the pump.

The PCM error would indicate a problem with the PCM or loose connection.
I would not drive it any long distance with a PCM error. I would take it to qualified machanic and have PCM scanned again for any current, history or pending codes.

Computer problem
2006 Toyota Corolla 4 cyl 30000 miles
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The technician told me that he thinks that my computer box in my car is broken, about how much would it cost to repair or replace it?

Hi there,

the first thing to do is make sure that the ECU is faulty as if you just replace it and a faulty wire or component is causing your problem, you may fry the new ECU and have no come back, find a tech that knows how to check the ECU out first.

Mark (mhpautos)

I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with 41,700 miles on it. I had the Engine Computer replaced today. The Toyota Dealership told me that Toyota is aware that they have been having malfunctions with the computer and the new one they installed is redesigned. They said the new redesigned computer does not malfunction and no one has returned to have them replaced. I was lucky I bought the extended warranty, because the standard warranty is 3 years or 36,000 miles. To the guy who posted at the top, it would seem your car should still be under warranty if you only have 30,000 miles on it. Also, if Toyota knows that the original computer is defective, it would seem that they should be replacing it with the newer one. I would do more research on this issue and confront them. If they don't want to replace it, then there should be some kind of grievance policy where you can complain. I would continue to pursue it though if I were you.

I'm being told by a mechanic that my PCM Module has gone bad and that that is a "common" problem in Toyota's. The engine will start sometimes and then will cut off and not again for hours. It has been undrivable for about a week now. I'm told that the part is going to cost me about $700 - $900 alone. Is this true or should I seek another shop?

It is certainly NOT a commom problem.

RUN to another shop.

While possible the PCM is bad, it should be covered by the Federal Emmissions Law.

Engine Mechanical problem
2005 Toyota Corolla 4 cyl Automatic 70000 miles

So I actually have a random complex, to me, question. I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla LE that had the ECU replaced due to malfunction. A year previous to that I was involved in an accident where I swore my antilock brakes didn’t work because I skid 40 feet into the back of a truck. I heard someone say that the ECU also controls the ABS, is this true and could that have been a factor or is someone just pulling my chain?

There is a link to the PCM, but ABS is controlled by its own seperate module.

ABS, is designed to not lockup the brakes, but is also dependant on mechanical items like the pads, rotors, calipers.

Hello, my question goes thus.Must my brain box yellow light be on?When i start my car all the alert lights disappear i.e the seat belt light,car door light, brake light e.t.c when i do the needful to them(e.g putting on my seat belt). So my concern is this, the brain box light going off means what?

Thanks

When you turn on the ignition, the ECU will power up and the check light will turn on, when you start the car if all systems are operation normally the check light will turn of, if it stays on, then there is a problem.

mark (mhpautos)

We received a code of P0171 meaning we need to replace our PCM and A/F sensor. Can we still drive the car until the part comes, or will it lead to more damage.

This code does not mean replace the pcm or the mass air flow unit (A/F sensor). I would is get some mass air flow cleaner (nothing else) and clean the mass air flow meter. After cleaning it reset the light with a code reader and see if it comes back. If it does then it may be an that we will have to run tests on the coolant temp sensor or the mass air flow meter to see what it causing it to run a bit lean.

This could also be a bad upstream O2 sensor, but as racefan pointed out, certainly not a PCM.

I totally agree thanks for that mm I forgot to mention the it could be an O2 too.

Can the engine control module cause the engine to lock up in a 2005 toyota corolla?

If you're talking about the engine locked/seized-up-I don't think so

I agree with Raz., not going to lock the engine.

Good day , my name is Deon and is my corolla giving me grey hair.When my car is cold it performs well, but as soon as the heatgauge is in the middle the car when I pull away or driving in 2 or 3 gear under 2000 reffs and I want to accellarate it hesitates till its over 2000 reffs and then it goes freely.When I reset the ecu or just disconnect my battery for about 20mins and drive again it goes well cold or hot engine for about 2 week. Toyota cant find the problem and has tested vvti gear, maf sensor , cleaned ocv.Please help as no one knows whats wrong.Thanks Deon

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge first auto parts rent it. check for a vacuum leak

Thanks for answering my question.Do you think the computer box or even petrol filter can contribute to such problems.Deon

doubt it's the box but until you do what I said in first reply you'll not know you have to start someplace

I got a trouble code P.O. 133 which is a slow acting O2 front bank sensor. I replaced the sensor and still get the same trouble code. This car seems to give spurious codes at various times and has throughout it's life, and the vehicle now has about 150,000 miles on it. The codes seem to be getting more ane more frequent. My question is, do you think I should replace the control module? Thanks for your input as this is getting old.

Sounds liike it could be failing, let me know the following to help rule out others possibilities;

Has the O2 sensor code been cleared for a period of time and then it got thrown again?
Are the trouble codes for various things or are they maintenance type items?
Do codes clear themselves?
How frequently are codes being thrown?

I will keep an eye on this and get back ASAP.

After my "check engine" light came on ( not blinking) the Toyota repair centre folks said they found codes relating to the fuel fill neck (Evap System), but the ECU was not reading the VIN. They cleared the codes and the light did not come back on BUT they warned that if the light did come back on I would require a new ECU and re-check. It is not covered by warranty as the vehicle is now over 6 years old.

Does it make sense that the ECU could fail with only 22,000 miles (but 6 plus years) on the vehicle?

no it definitely does not. sounds like they are not sure of their diagnosis of the original problem of a evap system leak. usually i find that the vent solenoid on the charcoal canister is faulty causing this code. probably code 440 or close to it.

Good Evening,

I am at my wits end with the 2007 Corolla I have picked up.

I replaced the following:

MAF
Both 02 Sensors
Cat Converter
Exhaust Manifold
Air Filter
Fuel Injectors.
Purge Valve by air filter housing



Car was burning lean getting P0171 errors. Smoke check revealed no leaks. I can clear the light but it randomly comes back on about 10 minutes after it's started.

Someone mentioned a Bad ECM. Could this be the answer I am looking for ?

Hi,

Is the P0171 the only code you are getting? When you checked for vacuum leaks, did you check the intake? Is the fuel pressure within the manufacturer's spec? Low pressure can also cause a lean mixture.

I have one last question (sorry for so many). Do you have a live data scan tool? If you do, check the short-term fuel trims and also confirm the coolant temp sensor is reading correctly.

If you look at the attached pic, it shows the possible issues. If you haven't, check fuel pressure first. Also, confirm there are no vacuum leaks in the air intake tube between the airbox and throttle body and the intake manifold. Also, if you have an engine vacuum gauge, let me know the reading at idle.

Here is a link that explains how to check for a vacuum leak. Note that the smoke test shows leaks in the EVAP, but can miss something in the air inlet or intake. Also, check the PCV to see if there is an issue there as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

If you look through the remaining pics, they provide diagnostic procedures. They cover everything that can cause this code.

If you haven't already, confirm fuel pressure and check again for a vacuum leak. Here are the manufacturer's specifications for fuel pressure. If you don't have fuel pressure gauge, most parts stores will lend one to you.

2007 Toyota Corolla L4-1.8L (1ZZ-FE)
Pressure, Vacuum and Temperature
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Specifications Pressure, Vacuum and Temperature
PRESSURE, VACUUM AND TEMPERATURE
Fuel Pressure .................... 304 to 343 kPa (3.1 to 3.5 kgf/sq.cm, 44 to 50 psi)

Fuel pressure for 5 minutes after the engine has stopped .................... 147 kPa (1.5 kgf/sq.cm, 21 psi) or more

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Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Thanks for getting back to me Joe. I actually replaced the PCV valve because I saw oil blowby and burning through the exhaust.

Once I actually replaced the injectors and the purge valve the fuel trim was right where it was supposed to be versus showing a lean condition.

However knucklehead me slipped and shorted my electrical system by. Touching my wrench against both poles simultaneous which also blew out my OBD2 scan tool.

Now the new scan tool doesn't pick up a signal at all and the CEL is on but the car runs smooth and quiet

I was planning on getting a new ECM module and having it calibrated with my VIN.

Would this solve this problem ?

Hi,

Check the OBD fuse in the instrument panel fuse box. It is a 7.5 amp fuse. Chances are if the scanner was damaged, the fuse is bad.

Take a look at the two pics below for identification and location. In addition to checking the fuse condition, confirm there is power to and from it. Here is a link that you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe