I wanted to know if you have detailed tutorial on how to change brakes

Here are some guides that will help with getting this done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-rear-brake-pads-and-rotors

Plus here is a guide that will show you how to bleed and flush the brakes if you would like to do that as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Below you will find the process from the manual on how to replace the pads and rotors. Let us know if you need more info. Thanks

Hi,

Replacing brakes isn't too hard. First, here is a link that will explain how in general the job is done. Take a look through it and use it as a guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

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2007 Kia Truck Sedona V6-3.8L
Repair Procedures
Vehicle Brakes and Traction Control Disc Brake System Brake Pad Service and Repair Removal and Replacement Front Disc Brake Repair Procedures
REPAIR PROCEDURES
REMOVAL

CAUTION:
Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be hazardous to your health.
a. Avoid breathing dust particles.
b. Never use on air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies.

1. Loosen the front wheel nuts slightly. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the guide rod bolt (B), After raise the caliper assembly (A), support it with a wire.

pic 1

3. Remove pad shim (A), pad retainer (B) and pad assembly (C) in the caliper bracket.

pic 2

INSTALLATION

1. Install the pad retainers (A) on the caliper bracket.

pic 3

2. Install pad shims (A) and the brake pads (B) with the wear indicator on the inside.

CAUTION:
If you are reusing the pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency.

pic 4

3. Insert the piston in the cylinder using the special tool (09581-11000).

pic 5

4. Push in the piston (A) so that the caliper will fit over the pads. Make sure that the piston boot is in position to prevent damaging it when pivoting the caliper down.
5. Being careful not to damage the pin boot, install the guide rod bolt (B) with the specified torque.

pic 6

6. If caliper assembly was removed, install the brake hose to the caliper.
7. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line.
8. Bleed the brake system.
9. Depress the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work, then test-drive.

NOTE:
Engagement of the brake may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake will restore the normal pedal stroke.

10. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary.

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I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions,

Take care and God Bless,
Joe

Do you mean the front pads are more worn than the rear? Please advise.

When you brake hard, does the car pull to one side or the other?

Well, the only thing I can think of that would cause what you describe is a problem with the anti-lock brake system, BUT if this were the case you would definatly feel it in the brake pedal. Bottom line, I don't know what to tell you. It's not a common problem that would be listed in the TBS bulletin library. I would just replace the pads, all whels and see what happens. It might be such a thing that you got 2 different types of pads inadvertently at the factory.

Check to make sure the antirattle shims are still good and in place, also make sure antirattle ckps are new and installed properly if used.

Also grease up the slide rails and other parts so the pads slide smoothly, and dont rattle or squeel.

When you compress the caliper piston, does it go in easy? Are all the caliper slides working smoothly?

THe only other thing I can say is to try replacing the black rubber brake line that attaches to the caliper. I have seen situations where they actually collapse on the inside. As a result, they will allow flow in one direction, but not the other. Basically, what I am saying is they will make the brakes work, and then take a lot of time to release pressure from the caliper back to the master cylender. That could cause the problem.