Transmission reverse issue?

It is still under warranty with a bumper to bumper 3-36 from the factory.

Is this a stick or automatic?

It may also be the motor surging making you think it is the trans.

What about this noise? Like a computer?

Roy

I suspect you're hearing the solenoids on the transmission. You have a problem when you DON'T hear them. They will sound like a ratcheting sound or sort of like a buzzing noise for about one second when you shift into drive or reverse, and you'll hear it when it downshifts into first gear as you come to a stop. That buzzing is one of the solenoids turning on and off very rapidly to "modulate" or cushion the shift so it's more comfortable. If the solenoid just suddenly turned on or off, it wouldn't hurt anything but the jerking would be uncomfortable.

The brake squeal is a result of using high quality brake pads. It will usually go away when they get hot and it typically gets worse in humid weather. Old, softer pads made with asbestos didn't make that noise. There are lots of little tricks professionals know to do to reduce that noise during a regular brake job and there's lots of things they know to watch out for to prevent causing that noise. Most of them will tell you there's nothing wrong and to live with it until it's time for a brake job. They might be able to reduce it but most cures are not permanent. It's just a fact of life with newer cars.

Usually it's the gasket for the solenoid pack that leaks, not the solenoids themselves, but there's no arguing with success if the leak is stopped.

You should be hearing a buzzing noise for about one second when you shift into drive or reverse. There is a foam rubber cover over the solenoid pack to reduce the noise but you can usually still hear it if you listen closely. I'm not sure what you're hearing at 5 mph but there are a lot of emissions-related valves and switches that do their thing at specific speeds. You might be hearing one of those.

Good afternoon,

Did you check the fluid level?

Testing needs to be done for pressure on the clutches. It sounds like you have no pressure build-up.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

I would start by dropping the pan and changing the fluid and filter. The filter may be clogged with debris not allowing pressure. Otherwise, you have an internal failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-service-an-automatic-transmission

Roy

HYDRAULIC PRESSURE TESTS

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

NOTE: Before preforming the hydraulic pressure tests be certain to disconnect the Variable Line Pressure (VLP) electrical connector (2) at the transmission. Check for and clear any codes that may have been set after preforming any hydraulic pressure tests and connecting the Variable Line Pressure (VLP) electrical connector.

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

Pressure testing is a very important step in the diagnostic procedure. These tests usually reveal the cause of most hydraulic transaxle problems.

Before performing pressure tests, be certain that fluid level and condition, and shift cable adjustments have been checked and approved. Fluid must be at operating temperature 150 to 200 ° F. (66 to 93 ° C).

Install an engine tachometer, raise vehicle on hoist which allows front wheels to turn, and position tachometer so it can be read.

Attach 300 psi Gauge C-3293SP to port(s) (1) overdrive clutch, (2) torque converter off, (3) low/reverse clutch, (4) 2/4 clutch, (5) reverse clutch, (6) underdrive clutch required for test(s) being conducted. Use Adapter Set L-4559 to adapt gauge(s) to transaxle.

TEST ONE-SELECTOR IN LOW (1st GEAR)

1. Attach pressure gauge to the low/reverse clutch tap.
2. Move selector lever to the (L) position.
3. Allow vehicle wheels to turn and increase throttle opening to achieve an indicated vehicle speed to 20 mph.
4. Low/reverse clutch pressure should read 115 to 145 psi.
5. This test checks pump output, pressure regulation and condition of the low/reverse clutch hydraulic circuit and shift schedule.

TEST TWO-SELECTOR IN DRIVE (2nd GEAR)

NOTE: This test checks the underdrive clutch hydraulic circuit as well as the shift schedule.

1. Attach gauge to the underdrive clutch tap.
2. Move selector lever to the 3 position.
3. Allow vehicle wheels to turn and increase throttle opening to achieve an indicated vehicle speed of 30 mph.
4. In second gear the underdrive clutch pressure should read 110 to 145 psi.

TEST TWO A-SELECTOR IN OD (4th Gear)

NOTE: This test checks the underdrive clutch hydraulic circuit as well as the shift schedule.

1. Attach gauge to the underdrive clutch tap.
2. Move selector lever to the (OD) position.
3. Allow wheels to rotate freely and increase throttle opening to achieve an indicated speed of 40 mph.
4. Underdrive clutch pressure should read below 5 psi. If not, then either the solenoid assembly or PCM/TCM is at fault.

TEST THREE-OVERDRIVE CLUTCH CHECK (3rd and 2nd Gear)

1. Attach gauge to the overdrive clutch tap.
2. Move selector lever to the (OD) position.
3. Allow vehicle wheels to turn and increase throttle opening to achieve an indicated vehicle speed of 20 mph. Vehicle should be in 3rd gear.
4. Overdrive clutch pressure should read 74 to 95 psi.
5. Move selector lever to the (3) position and increase indicated vehicle speed to 30 mph.
6. The vehicle should be in second gear and overdrive clutch pressure should be less than 5 psi.
7. This test checks the overdrive clutch hydraulic circuit as well as the shift schedule.

TEST FOUR-SELECTOR IN OVERDRIVE (4th Gear)

1. Attach gauge to the 2/4 clutch tap.
2. Move selector lever to the (OD) position.
3. Allow vehicle front wheels to turn and increase throttle opening to achieve an indicated vehicle speed of 30 mph. Vehicle should be in 4th gear.
4. The 2/4 clutch pressure should read 75 to 95 psi.
5. This test checks the 2/4 clutch hydraulic circuit.

TEST FIVE-SELECTOR IN OVERDRIVE (4th Gear-CC on)

1. Attach gauge to the torque converter clutch off pressure tap.
2. Move selector lever to the (OD) position.
3. Allow vehicle wheels to turn and increase throttle opening to achieve an indicated vehicle speed of 50 mph. Vehicle should be in 4th gear, CC on.

CAUTION: Both wheels must turn at the same speed.

4. Torque converter clutch off pressure should be less than 5 psi.
5. This test checks the torque converter clutch hydraulic circuit.

TEST SIX-SELECTOR IN REVERSE

1. Attach gauges to the reverse and LR clutch tap.
2. Move selector lever to the (R) position.
3. Read reverse clutch pressure with output stationary (foot on brake) and throttle opened to achieve 1500 rpm.
4. Reverse and LR clutch pressure should read 165 to 235 psi.
5. This test checks the reverse clutch hydraulic circuit.

TEST RESULT INDICATIONS

1. If proper line pressure is found in any one test, the pump and pressure regulator are working properly.
2. Low pressure in all positions indicates a defective pump, a clogged filter, or a stuck pressure regulator valve.
3. Clutch circuit leaks are indicated if pressures do not fall within the specified pressure range.
4. If the overdrive clutch pressure is greater than 5 psi in 4 of Test Three, a worn reaction shaft seal ring or a defective solenoid assembly is indicated.
5. If the underdrive clutch pressure is greater than 5 psi in 4 of Test Two A, a defective solenoid assembly or PCM/TCM is the cause.

PRESSURE CHECK SPECIFICATIONS

FLUID AND FILTER SERVICE

NOTE: Refer to the maintenance schedules in LUBRICATION and MAINTENANCE, for the recommended maintenance (fluid/filter change) intervals for this transaxle.

NOTE: Only fluids of the type labeled Mopar(R) ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) should be used. A filter change should be made at the time of the transmission oil change. The magnet (on the inside of the oil pan) should also be cleaned with a clean, dry cloth.

NOTE: If the transaxle is disassembled for any reason, the fluid and filter should be changed.

FLUID/FILTER SERVICE (RECOMMENDED)

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

1. Raise vehicle on a hoist. Refer to LUBRICATION and MAINTENANCE for proper procedures. Place a drain container with a large opening under transaxle oil pan.
2. Loosen pan bolts and tap the pan at one corner to break it loose allowing fluid to drain, then remove the oil pan.
3. Install a new filter (1) and O-ring (2) on bottom of the valve body.

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

image

4. Clean the oil pan and magnet. Reinstall pan using new Mopar Silicone Adhesive sealant. Tighten oil pan bolts to 19 Nm (165 in. lbs.).
5. Pour four quarts of Mopar(R) ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) through the dipstick opening.
6. Start engine and allow to idle for at least one minute. Then, with parking and service brakes applied, move selector lever momentarily to each position, ending in the park or neutral position.
7. Check the transaxle fluid level and add an appropriate amount to bring the transaxle fluid level to 3 mm (1/8 in.) below the lowest mark on the dipstick.
8. Recheck the fluid level after the transaxle has reached normal operating temperature 82° C (180° F.). Refer to Fluid Level and Condition Check for the proper fluid fill procedure See: Fluid - A/T > Procedures > Fluid Level and Condition Check.
9. To prevent dirt from entering transaxle, make certain that dipstick is fully seated into the dipstick opening.

DIPSTICK TUBE FLUID SUCTION METHOD (ALTERNATIVE)

1. When performing the fluid suction method, make sure the transaxle is at full operating temperature.
2. To perform the dipstick tube fluid suction method, use a suitable fluid suction device Vacula(TM) or equivalent).
3. Insert the fluid suction line into the dipstick tube.

NOTE: Verify that the suction line is inserted to the lowest point of the transaxle oil pan. This will ensure complete evacuation of the fluid in the pan.

4. Follow the manufacturers recommended procedure and evacuate the fluid from the transaxle.
5. Remove the suction line from the dipstick tube.
6. Pour four quarts of Mopar(R) ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) through the dipstick opening.
7. Start engine and allow to idle for at least one minute. Then, with parking and service brakes applied, move selector lever momentarily to each position, ending in the park or neutral position.
8. Check the transaxle fluid level and add an appropriate amount to bring the transaxle fluid level to 3 mm (1/8 in.) below the lowest mark on the dipstick.

9. Recheck the fluid level after the transaxle has reached normal operating temperature (180°F.). See: Fluid - A/T > Procedures > Fluid Level and Condition Check.
10. To prevent dirt from entering transaxle, make certain that dipstick is fully seated into the dipstick opening.

Hi,

Check for trouble codes write them down and try doing a hard reset here's how to do it:
Disconnect the battery terminals and touch them together for 10 minutes. I like to put a test light between the two cables and ground it to prevent module damage. This discharges all the capacitors that could potentially still be charged. It acts like a factory reset. Let us know if this worked.

Thank you
Joe T.

A grinding noise is a big concern, this would indicate that there is something fairly serious wrong with the transmission, get it towed to a transmission specialist as further driving may cause further damage, get this check ASAP.

Are the brake lights coming on if so have the shift interlock control system checked out could be the shiftlock solenoid.

With out hearing the noise it is a bit hard to say, but have the exhaust system checked for loose or broken mounts, have a mechanic listen for a cracked flex plate, is this noise only in drive/

mark (mhpautos)

A few things can cause the problem. First, make sure the trans fluid is clean and full. If the check engine light is on, have the computer scanned to identify if there are any trouble codes. If none, a tech will need to check the reverse band to see if it is broken or damaged.

So the fluid is full and what color is the fluid?Probably going to have to do a pressure test on the transmission to see what the pressure is.