Check engine light

Hello,

You must have had a glitch in the system to cause the light here is a video that shows how to clear the codes.

https://youtu.be/ahK_eucFi-k

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

I need to know what size engine you have?

That code is nearly always a bad converter. There are other possibilities but they are very rare. In order to set that code the front and rear 0/2s have to mirror each other for a specific period of time among other criteria it has to meet also.

Wrenchtech is right most of the ime it's a bad cat. Read step 3 I posted if everything checks out there then your next step is to replace the cat.I wouldn't replace the sensors they would both have to go bad at the same time to set that code. Let us know what you find and how it goes.

Possible causes

- Faulty EVAP Canister Vent Valve
- Faulty EVAP Canister Purge valve
- Plugged EVAP canister condition
- Faulty EVAP Pressure Sensor
- EVAP Canister Vent Valve harness is open or shorted
- EVAP Canister Vent Valve circuit poor electrical connection

Go get it changed for free.

Even if both 0/2s were bad, I believe you would get different codes than a PO430.

Well you shold have sent the codes first not the diagnosis. It means that y ou culd have left your gas cap not tightened after getting gas, or your purge vavle may be messed up and needs to be fixed or a short in wire. The abs cold mean a wire broken someplacce andthe loss of communication can be abad battery/ground or a bad wire at the aldl or it wasn't hooked up reigh tto begin with.

It's connected to the gastank on the right rearinner fender well. You can't see it unless you look under and then maybe not even then. It's connected to a rectangular box like thing.

I hear ya

Your O2 sensors are a separate issue from your radio and bat problem.

Your O2 sensors are controlled by the PCM, which is your power train computer. (Engine/trans) The radio and other electrical accessories are controlled by the BCM, which is your Body Control Module.

You said you replaced the O2 sensors, but are you getting another code? When the engine sets a code for these sensors, it IS NOT saying the sensors are bad. It's only pointing you in the direction of a problem. Such as the wiring/connectors/sensors. And also, your engine could be running a lean/rich condition that is causing the sensors to read something abnormally high/low, which your computer can't compensate for. Sometimes the computer will think there's a problem with the sensor or its circuit.

The proper thing to do when getting these codes is to thoroughly troubleshoot that particular system until the component at fault is found. If a mechanic just goes in to replace parts, you need to find another mechanic, one that knows what he/she is doing.

Your radio sounds as if the power antenna isn't connected properly or has a problem in the wiring. (FM stations need the antenna, AM stations don't) That's why the AM stations are coming in.

Your digital display should fluctuate from anywhere between 13-15 volts (While engine is running). That's normal. But when you engine is off, the bat should read 12.6 (at least)

If you've recently replaced the bat and it's already reading 11 volts, then there's a constant current draw on the bat that isn't shutting off when you turn the car off.

Check to make sure you turn everything off when leaving your vehicle. If the current draw doesn't disappear, then you'll need to have your fuse box probed for the current draw. And if you're unable to locate it this way, have your BCM checked out. These things often go bad and will cause all sorts of electrical gremlins to appear.

If you are referring to check engine light then it requires a diagnostic scan tool to retrieve and then delete the codes out of system.