Canister purge solenoid vent valve location

Your listing two parts which one are you looking for? The canister purge solenoid? Or the vent solenoid? Here is what I have so far for ya # 1 and #16.

1 - Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid---
2 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) 1
3 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
4 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) 2
5 - Starter
6 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
7 - Park/Neutral Position (PNP) Switch
8 - Heater Coolant Pump

and

1 - Ignition Coil 4
2 - Ignition Coil 3
3 - Ignition Coil 2
4 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Actuator Solenoid - Intake
5 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Actuator Solenoid - Exhaust
6 - Ignition Coil 1
7 - G107
8 - Engine Harness
9 - Engine Block Heater Connector
10 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) 1
11 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) 2
12 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
13 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor 2 (Exhaust)
14 - G110
15 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor 1 (Intake)
16 - Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid--

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Alright let me stop you right there just because you set a certain code does not mean you can just go by the part the code is related to and replace and the code is gone and wont come back. The code sets to let you know there is a problem with that circuit or system etc, of that part of the car.I wish it was that easy, lol. What is the exact code number you have not code description?

I forgot to ask what size engine do you have?

I posted a diagram of where the canister purge solenoid is its figure 2. Most likely from the code you have there three most likely causes a stuck open canister purge solenoid and stuck closed vent solenoid or a stuck fuel tank pressure sensor showing vacuum on the tank when there really is not. Or bad wiring to the pressure sensor. I take it you do not have a scanner to read the fuel tank sensor? Lets start by removing the hoses from the canister purge solenoid and with the key off see if you can blow through it? Let me know what you find.

The only number we care about is number two, that is your canister purge solenoid that turns the vacuum from the engine on and off from the engine to the gas tank. All the other ones have nothing to do with your code. All I want you to do is unhook the two hose from the number two call out then blow air with your mouth through the solenoid. If you can blow air through it it is bad and you will have to replace it. You could also go to AutoZone and rent a hand vacuum pump hook the hose to one of the nipples of the solenoid and pump the hand pump to pull a vacuum. If the vacuum holds solenoid is not sticking open at least while you are testing it.

Here is a link to that hand vacuum pump i am talking about I would just use my mouth though a lot easier then renting a hand vacuum pump. If you have to use a piece of short hose that fits tightly to the solenoid nipple.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Vacuum-pump-and-gauge-tester-includes-24-in-tube/_/N-25jr?itemIdentifier=2080&_requestid=1435463

Sounds like the valve was stuck open like I suspected and you broke it free so it would close. I always replace them when they stick open but if you want to wait and see if it sticks again to replace it that is up to you. Most likely it will stick again.

Yes there is. When was the last time you changed the fluid? How many miles ago was that? Also, if the transmission does not have any leaks then the level should not have changed and should not be low.

The dipstick on the transmission is call out number to in the diagram I posted.

If you click on the diagram it will get big enough to read.

Here is what you are going to have to do. Go get your codes read and let me know the exact code numbers you have not code descriptions. That is where we need to start.