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Code P0449

Tiny
USTAZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 SATURN VUE HYBRID
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 162,000 MILES
4 cyl Automatic Front Wheel Drive

Problem.
I have a 2007 saturn vue hybrid, the check engine light gave code P0449 which is a code for solenoid CONTROL CIRCUIT. Can anyone Plz help me to locate the canister Vent Solenoid Valve on Saturn vue 2007 green line.
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Monday, February 21st, 2011 AT 5:34 PM

34 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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The first diagram I posted is the vent solenoid connector to show you which terminal is a and be for testing. The second diagram I posted is to show you the canister you have to drop down to get to the vent solenoid it's back by the gas tank. The third diagram show's the vent solenoid itself.I also posted the trouble tree to follow you just can't do the part that involves the tech2 scan tool. Let me know what you find.
P0449

Battery voltage is supplied to the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve. The control module grounds the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve control circuit to close the valve by means of an internal switch called a driver. The scan tool displays the commanded state of the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve as ON or OFF. The control module monitors the status of the driver.

Conditions for Running the DTC

* The ignition is ON.
* The system voltage is between 9-18 volts.
* DTCs P0443 and P0449 run continuously when the above conditions are met.

Conditions for Setting the DTC

The control module detects that the commanded state of the driver and the actual state of the control circuit do not match, for a minimum of 12 seconds.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets

DTCs P0443 and P0449 are Type B DTCs.

Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC

DTCs P0443 and P0449 are Type B DTCs.

Circuit/System Verification

P0443

With the ignition ON, engine OFF, you should hear a clicking sound when the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve is commanded to 50 percent with a scan tool. The clicking sound should stop when the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve is commanded to 0 percent. The rate at which the valve cycles should increase when the commanded state is increased, and decrease when the commanded state is decreased.

P0449

1. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF, command the EVAP vent solenoid ON and OFF with a scan tool.
2. Listen for a click when the valve operates. Verify that both the ON, and the OFF states are commanded.

Circuit/System Testing

P0443

1. Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve.
2. Ignition ON, verify that a test lamp illuminates between the voltage supply circuit terminal A and ground.

 If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the voltage supply circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal and the voltage supply circuit fuse is open, test or replace the EVAP canister purge solenoid.

3. Connect a test lamp between the voltage supply circuit terminal A and the control circuit terminal B.
4. Command the solenoid to 50 percent with a scan tool. The test lamp should flash or illuminate when commanded to 50 percent and turn OFF when commanded to 0 percent.

 If the test lamp is always ON, test the control circuit for a short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the control module.
 If the test lamp is always OFF, test the control circuit for a short to voltage or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the control module.

5. If all circuits test normal, replace the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve.

P0449

1. Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve.
2. Ignition ON, verify that a test lamp illuminates between the voltage supply circuit terminal A and ground.

 If a test lamp does not illuminate, test the voltage supply circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal and the voltage supply circuit fuse is open, test or replace the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve.

3. Connect a test lamp between the voltage supply circuit terminal A and the control circuit terminal B.
4. Command the solenoid ON and OFF with a scan tool. The test lamp should turn ON and OFF when changing between commanded states.

 If the test lamp is always ON, test the control circuit for a short to round. If the circuit tests normal, replace the control module.
 If the test lamp is always OFF, test the control circuit for a short to voltage or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the control module.

5. If all circuits test normal, replace the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve.

Repair Instructions

Perform the Diagnostic Repair Verification after completing the diagnostic procedure. See: Testing and Inspection Programming and Relearning

* Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Replacement
* Evaporative Emission Canister Vent Solenoid Valve Replacement
* Refer to Programming and Relearning. See: Testing and Inspection Programming and Relearning
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Monday, February 21st, 2011 AT 5:54 PM
Tiny
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Thank you sir for your kind help. After the test as you suggested I will update my post.
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Monday, February 21st, 2011 AT 10:50 PM
Tiny
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Alright I will be here keep me posted.
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Monday, February 21st, 2011 AT 10:59 PM
Tiny
USTAZ
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I took my car to GM dealer today they did another scan for 113$ and told me that I have p0A37 (Generator Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance error )along with P0449. As it was -10 outside so I could not do the test for P0449. GM told me that I need to replace my Generator/starter "part is 538$+labour of 5-6 hours (which is 1138+tax) and 42$ for selenoid + 87$ for labour (total 1267+14%tax)
When I asked the GM tech why I need to replce the starter as my car can start even though its -20 outside and my hybrid is working as well showing me continues charge and discharge activity in charge gauge on dash board. His answer was we have to do further testing and it will cost me more. Why the hell they charge me 113 then just to tell me the code # :(. Can you plz tell me what is Generator Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance and where it is located? Is it related to gererator being bad or needed to replace. I dont trust GM dealers as he could not tell me for 113 $ why they need to replace the generator/starter if its charging and starting my car without any problem. Many thanx for your help.
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Tuesday, February 22nd, 2011 AT 10:03 PM
Tiny
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Did you happen to send me a email if you did could you please send it again I think I may have deleted it by mistake. So they just read your code's and didn't do any trouble shooting like I posted for you if so he must be physic lol. The code P0449 has to be trouble shooted like I posted for you. You can do some of it with a multimeter yourself. As far as the code P0a37a that's Starter/Generator Temperature Sensor Performance which is built inside the alternator/starter. That's the alternator looking thing that is on your engine that charge's plus when the engine shuts off at idle it use's that to restart the engine not your starter it also help's you excellerate under hard excelleration. If the temp sensor went bad then everything could work normal like charging and starting because it's just the temperature part of it. So it's pretty sad that he couldn't have explained that too you without charging you more more money. Iam posting the code description below my reply for you to read so you have a better understanding of what's going on with that code. The scariest part is it sound's like he gave you a estimate just by reading the code's without testing anything.
DTC P0A37
Diagnostic Instructions

* Perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle prior to using this diagnostic procedure. See: Testing and Inspection Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle
* Review Strategy Based Diagnosis for an overview of the diagnostic approach.
* Diagnostic Procedure Instructions provides an overview of each diagnostic category.

DTC Descriptor

DTC P0A37

* Starter/Generator Temperature Sensor Performance

Circuit/System Description

The starter/generator control module (SGCM) monitors the performance of the motor generator temperature sensor to detect if it is within range of the other temperature sensors, by comparing it to other temperature sensors it controls.

Conditions for Running the DTC

The engine is running.

Conditions for Setting the DTC

Power inverter module (PIM) TEMP 1, PIM TEMP 2, auxiliary power module (APM) TEMP, Board TEMP, motor/generator unit (MGU) TEMP greater than 30 degrees Celsius (80 degrees Fahrenheit) and engine OFF timer greater than 480 minutes of start up.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets

50 percent maximum torque limit.

Conditions for Clearing the DTC

Normal range for 10 seconds.

Diagnostic Aids

Possible Internal failure at temperature sensor.

Circuit/System Testing

Caution: To help avoid personal injury, additional precautions must be taken prior to working on the generator control module or the generator starter. After removing the 36V battery cables from the generator battery, remove both engine wiring harness connectors from the generator control module. Wait at least 5 minutes and then remove the generator control module cover. Verify voltage levels at all 36V, 12V, and 3-phase connections, are less than 3 volts using a DMM before proceeding.

1. Disconnect harness connector C2 from the SGCM.
2. Using the appropriate test adapters, test for less than 1 ohm resistance between terminals 2 and 14.

 If within the specified range, replace the SGCM.

3. Disconnect the 7 pin connector at the MGU.
4. Test for less than 1 ohm between SGCM connector harness terminal 2 and the MGU connector harness terminal G.

 If less than the specified range, repair the open circuit.

5. Test for less than 1 ohm between SGCM connector harness terminal 14 and the MGU connector harness terminal F.

 If less than the specified range, repair the open circuit.

6. If both circuits test normal, replace the MGU.

Repair Instructions

Perform the Diagnostic Repair Verification after completing the diagnostic procedure. See: Verification Tests and Procedures

Control Module References for SGCM replacement, setup, and programming.
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Wednesday, February 23rd, 2011 AT 5:49 PM
Tiny
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Look for that box in the diagram back by the gas tank with 3 nut's holding it. You will have to drop that down to get to the vent solenoid and connector.
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Wednesday, February 23rd, 2011 AT 7:27 PM
Tiny
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Also take a look at the labor time to replace the alternator/starter I posted it say's 2.1hr's labor not a floating time of 5-6hrs.I think the tech pulled that time out of the sky I posted a screen shot of the labor time shop's use for non warranty labor time's.I would ask him where there getting there labor time's from.
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Wednesday, February 23rd, 2011 AT 7:35 PM
Tiny
BRPERZ
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I also have a 2007 Saturn VUE Greenline Hybrid, 75,000+ miles. I had a check engine light/ error code P0A37. The first time I brought it in the light had already gone off. The GM dealership kept it all day long, testing and trying to get the light to come back on, but no luck.
About 2 months later now, the light came back on, same error code, P0A37. I was able to get it back to the dealership with the light still on. This time they told me the generator needs to be replaced as it is overheating sometimes, causing the temperature sensor to trigger the light/code. I was told the part is $649. Because of my mileage (100,000 mile hybrid warranty) this is being done at no cost under the warranty. Just thought I'd add my two cents to help anyone else with this problem, hopefully still under warrany!
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Tuesday, September 27th, 2011 AT 7:40 PM
Tiny
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Thanks so much for the info it really helps. That is a common part to fail on that vue I have seen a lot of those go bad.
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Tuesday, September 27th, 2011 AT 7:55 PM
Tiny
DWENN1968
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I've had the POA37 code come up 4 times now. Twice the dealer has told me it was from using the accessory mode (which I don't use, especially after telling me not to). On the second visit, the GM dealer told me if it happened again it would be a real pain to diagnose it, something about having to take stuff apart. Additionally, they said it wasn't covered under the hybrid warranty, even though my car is an '07 at 85,000.

I bought myself a code reader when it popped up the third time and video taped myself diagnosing it and clearing it. Sure enough, it came back 4 days later! I bought the car from a Ford dealer, who doesn't want to service it even though I bought their overpriced extended warranty. And the GM dealer they sent it to the second time, acts like they don't want to fix it either.

What should I do?
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 1:32 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Your going to have to call gm and open up a case thats your best bet. Keep us posted on that one.
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 1:51 AM
Tiny
DWENN1968
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Called GM (Saturn Customer Service) and they seem useless. Despite having asked flat out if the part that keeps coming up as an issue, the SGCM, is part of the hybrid system and therefore under warranty they couldn't answer that question. They said that information lies with the Chvey dealer/service center. Well I already had one shop tell me it isn't covered and yet people on the internet say it is? I have a call in to a different Saturn/Chevy dealer and they are getting back to me tomorrow.
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Friday, October 7th, 2011 AT 12:59 AM
Tiny
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That is a hybrid code and the hybrid warranty goes untill 100,000 miles. So if there going to have to fix a hybrid problem if thats what it is under the warranty. One of our advertiser on this site is for warranty repairs that the manufactors dont want to cover.
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Friday, October 7th, 2011 AT 1:13 AM
Tiny
DWENN1968
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Well, I've had 2 Chevy places tell me no hybrid coverage for the SGCM. My fear is that the dealer that I have the extended warranty with (Ford) won't want to cover the repair either, since they can't even do it. Which is why they have sent my car to 2 different Chevy places.
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Friday, October 7th, 2011 AT 5:32 PM
Tiny
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Do you have the owners manual that came with the car when it was new?If so look under the warranty section and see what it says about the hybrid warranty coverage. Also what reason did the chevy dealers give for it not being under warranty?
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Friday, October 7th, 2011 AT 5:38 PM
Tiny
DWENN1968
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The dealers agree that I have hybrid warranty coverage until 100,000 miles but two they say that the SGCM is NOT part of that system and one says it depends. Could be a wiring issue that wouldn't be covered.
As far as GM customer service: they are handing my case over to technical assistance since customer service is only qualified to use the words "I understand your frustration" and "I appreciate your patience".
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Friday, October 7th, 2011 AT 11:44 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Well the regular non green line vue doesnt have that part so I dont see how its not part of the hybrid system. Keep me posted on what they say.
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Saturday, October 8th, 2011 AT 5:00 PM
Tiny
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Dear Saturntech9,
I have exact same problem with my 2007 Saturn Vue hybrid, namely, Code DTC P0449. After reading your posting I decided to change the "EVAP canister vent solenoid valve" but that did not help. I reset the code the light would go off for 5 second and turn on again. When that did not help I replaced the "Evap Canister Purge Solenoid Valve" but that did not help either. Again the light will turn on after five seconds of reset. All the wires seemed fine and no damage was visible to the wire and connections.
Do you have any other tip or place to look? Any specific fuse?

I appreciate your help.
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Saturday, May 26th, 2012 AT 3:37 AM
Tiny
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When you followed the trouble tree what did you find?If you only have the P0449 then only the vent solenoid is only involved not the canister purge solenoind. So what did you find when you followed the trouble tree?I need to know step by step iam not there to see whats going on. Its the control module vent solenoid or wires terminal tighteness etc.
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Saturday, May 26th, 2012 AT 3:16 PM
Tiny
EASTERN
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Thanks for your reply, I was at GM dealer and they told me it's either vent solenoid or purge solenoid. Then I started searching the internet and found your posting. Because of my limited knowledge I decided to change the parts and hoping that it would take care of the problem rather than doing the right way and following your chart step by step.
Right now I have changed the parts mentioned and I did not notice any damages or corrosion on the cables and connectors. My scan tool is a very simple one and I can only try to turn the check engine light off but it will turn on again a few second later. I am unable to perform the tests you mentioned in your posting.
I just wonder if the part is replaced what else could be wrong and where to look for it?
Could the new part be defected and is there a way to check the part?
Any advice would be helpful. Thanks
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Saturday, May 26th, 2012 AT 4:42 PM

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