PCM replacement instructions please with location?

Tiny
EDGAR ARMENTA
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There is nothing on the computer itself, I mistyped. I am not sure if their is a number on the truck or not, just that there is nothing on the computer.
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Saturday, May 8th, 2021 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
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The dealer could use the VIN number to help find the correct computer. Otherwise look on rock auto dot com by application they should have one on there.
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Saturday, May 8th, 2021 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EDGAR ARMENTA
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Could I call them and ask? I got into the website and couldn't seem to find the computer, I searched in every possible category and it isn't there.
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Saturday, May 8th, 2021 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
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Excuse me for butting in. Saturntech9 is right. You're making this way too difficult. Visit any salvage yard and ask for a computer for a 2001 truck with a 318 c.I. And automatic transmission. Since your old one doesn't have a sticker, it most likely was a rebuilt unit that had a rebuilder's sticker taped on, and that fell off. The part number on that paper would be different than the original number anyway.

These computers have an extremely low failure rate. You never listed the problem you're trying to solve. About 90 percent of the time when people don't do that, it turns out to not be a computer problem.
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Saturday, May 8th, 2021 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EDGAR ARMENTA
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I've already gone to a salvage yard and bought multiple computers where they indicate it's for this engine and trans, but no they don't work, on the original the gas pump doesn't work and I can't use a scanner to get into the system, I put in another computer and the pump works, but then the injectors don't get any pulse, and still can't get any communication with the ecm. If it wasn't the computer the pump wouldnt work on either of the two computers, and it would be the obd fuse that isn't working but the fuses are all good, triple checked them all, under hood and inside, I just want to find out the computer number that's all.
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Saturday, May 8th, 2021 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
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I'm not following your logic, but I get the feeling you're looking in the wrong direction. You haven't mentioned anything about spark. Too many people get hung up on the first thing they find missing, which for some reason seems to be the fuel pump, then they waste their time and money in that system. You also have to check for spark. The hardest thing to check for quickly is injector pulses so we don't look at that.

If you've already gone through multiple computers, at some point it should dawn on you that isn't the cause of the problem. The best place to start is by checking if the automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay is turning on. Look for the wire that is the same color at every injector and at the ignition coil. On cars that is dark green / orange. I'm not sure if it's that color on the trucks. Probe that with a test light. You can also probe either of the smaller terminals on the back of the alternator if that is easier. Digital voltmeters usually don't respond fast enough for this.

You should see the test light light up for one second when you turn on the ignition switch. If it does, the ASD circuit is working and the computer has control of it. You should also hear the fuel pump hum for that one second. What is important is that relay must turn on again during engine rotation, (cranking or running). If it does not, suspect a failed crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor.

If the ASD relay never turns on, suspect a problem in one of the 12 volt feed circuits to the Engine Computer. That can also cause a loss of communication with the scanner. Typically there are four 12 volt feeds, but that fourth one shows up from the ASD relay to verify it turned on when the computer requested it to. There should be one feed wire that has 12 volts all the time, and one that has 12 volts only when the ignition switch is on. There's a third one that is used mainly for the voltage regulator. I can't remember where it comes from, but I think the engine would still run if that one is missing.

If you need help with the wire colors or terminal numbers, one of us will dig up a wiring diagram and find them for you.
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Saturday, May 8th, 2021 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FAYGOZ
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  • 1996 DODGE RAM
  • 5.2L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 236,767 MILES
I recently wrecked my truck, it was collided with another car on the driver side. Truck wouldn't start, took it to a mechanic they replaced the PCM and a new crankshaft sensor. The day I picked the truck up from the shop, it randomly shuts off, will crank but no start, with the oil light on the dash. Fast forward the truck had its PCM replaced for the second time, which I thought was a relief because it started. Now today the same thing happened, driving out of my neighborhood, the truck randomly shuts off, steering locked, but lights and radio still working. Tired of putting money into this truck when it keeps doing the same thing. Anything helps, let me know your thoughts on this problem.
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Saturday, May 8th, 2021 AT 12:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Hello,

It sounds like the ASD relay is failing. here is a guide and the relay location so you can run a test to confirm the failure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

See if the relay gets hot as well sure sign its going out. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

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Saturday, May 8th, 2021 AT 12:24 PM (Merged)

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