Air Condition not blowing cold

It sounds like the system is low on charge, Here are a couple of guides that will help you find out what the problem is.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-conditioner-leak-detection

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-conditioner-how-to-add-freon

Let us know how is goes so it will help others

You need to put a real gauge set on there and actually look at low and high side pressures. Once you verify that you have a place to start from. At the moment you do not know for sure it has a charge. The other issue with warm air could be a bad blend door but I would get the A/C working first as it makes it easier to test the blend door.

Start with the gauges. That way you know if the system has a charge, then you can diagnose the rest of the system.
The smell could be a couple things, one, blower motor is starting to fail. That would increase the current across the blower resistor which caused the old one to fail. Or it could be the clutch on the compressor failing.

Before you do anything else, you need to understand how refrigerant works. You have some other problem causing the system to turn off as a safeguard. When that happens, the high and low side pressures will equalize so the low side is going to read too high, compared to when the system is running. If you bleed some off thinking you're going to lower the pressure, it's not going to happen. The lower pressure will just allow more of the liquid in the system to vaporize and expand, and that will make the pressure go right back up. The pressure in the system will be proportional to the outside air temperature. As you bleed more off, more liquid will vaporize and expand and the pressure will go back up. It will keep on doing that as long as there is still some liquid left to vaporize. Once that point is reached, it will be like a car tire. The more you bleed, the lower the pressure will go. Air in a tire is already fully vaporized so there's nothing in there to expand when you bleed some off.

Also, there is absolutely no way to know how fully charged the system is except by recovering the full amount, pumping the system into a vacuum, then injecting a measured amount. Because of the way refrigerant acts under pressure, reading the high and low side pressures with the system not running is meaningless. Experienced AC mechanics can tell from the pressures how the system is performing when it's running, but even they can't tell if it's slightly over or undercharged.

I suspect he's guessing. I don't know which system your vehicle uses but regardless, there's a pressure relief valve in the receiver-drier that would have blown off if too much pressure built up.

Starting somewhere in the mid '90s on some models, Chrysler started using compressors with a variable "wobble plate". It self adjusts according to the low side pressure. When there's more heat load, the pressure goes up due to a rise in the refrigerant's temperature as it leaves the evaporator in the dash. That higher pressure adjusts the wobble plate to make the pistons take longer strokes and pump more refrigerant. That way the compressor doesn't have to regulate by turning on and off. That can be felt and can be annoying.

The other system uses an expansion valve, often called the "H valve". It is a controlled leak that is adjusted by a gas in a sensing bulb on the evaporator that expands when it warms up, and that expanded gas pushes on the expansion valve to open up and let more refrigerant in. Those H valves caused a lot of trouble but they usually got handled when the vehicle was still in warranty. Depending on how they stuck, the valve would not let enough refrigerant through to cool the air or it would let too much through. Then the evaporator would drop below 32 degrees and the condensed humidity would freeze into a block of ice that blocked air flow.

I don't like to argue with a mechanic over something I can't see or diagnose myself, but I'm not sure I follow his reasoning. I find it hard to believe something else in the system is going to damage the compressor. If it is just the clutch that has failed, that is not uncommon. They seemed to have a lot of clutch coil trouble starting around the late '90s to 2000. It's a Japanese part so you'd expect to find better quality, but failure is common.

You can run power directly to it to see if it turns on. However, if it isn't working automatically, something is causing a problem. It could be low Freon, a cycle switch, bad compressor clutch.

It's also called an accumaltor which normally is connected to the evaporator at firewall. Yours however is by the condenser make sure ot replace drier as well as expansion orfice and that there is no junk in system otherwise your system won't work to well if at all.

Anytime a system is opened up it should be vacuumed down just blocking it off and replacing the part then refilling is not good. I can't copy the instructions but the grill has to come out an dyou have to remove the bolt from under the fascia once you unhook the lines if the system hasn't been pumped down or Freon removed it will blow all over an dyou will need to add oil as well.

Two lines come from the compressor. One is hose larger than the other in diameter. The low side port will be on the larger line here are two videos that will help

https://youtu.be/ON2dYcmXIAw

and

https://youtu.be/uZrQCGwXfek

Please run down these videos and report back if needed

Cheers

Hello,

The low side port is on the larger AC tubes coming from the firewall and headed tot he compressor here is a guide t help you get the job done and the location of the charge port below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-conditioner-how-to-add-freon

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers