car will not start

Please turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over to see if you can here the fuel pump int he tank come on for 5 seconds? This guide will help us see whats going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start


Please run down this guide and report back.

Car was running fine. Went to start it and it turns over will not start. Have checked security system seems fine. Battery shows twelve volts. What could be wrong?

Turn key to on in a quiet environment to hear if fuel pump is energizing, usually a few seconds. If not check fuses.

Hey CTSUE

Here is a great guide on what to look for when you car does not start.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please let us know happens so it will help others.

Best, Ken

The car turns on, all the lights work, radio...etc. The car just won't start. It sounds like its about to turn over but doesn't. The engine light comes on though. What can the possible problems be?

It sounds like you have a weak battery but to be sure here is a guide to help you test it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

let me know please

car refuses to start after I fill it up with gas, but if I push the gas pedal down and then crank it then it starts. (starts without a problem normal). Hope you guys can help.

Do you know if there are any Diagnostic Trouble Codes/check engine light stored in the ecm? I have not personally seen this, but I did some research and have come across a few Cadillacs with same problem, more than likely this is going to be your Evaporative emmissions (EVAP) canister purge solenoid/valve malfunctioning. The EVAP purge solenoid controls the flow of vapors from the EVAP system to the intake manifold. This normally closed solenoid is pulse width modulated (PWM) by the control module to precisely control the flow of fuel vapor to the engine. The solenoid will also be opened during some portions of the EVAP testing, allowing engine vacuum to enter the EVAP system. If yours is staying open while fueling it is letting more than ussaul gas fumes into the intake creating a hard start condition. Hope this helps.

05 Cadillac CTS I would like an experts opinion on what may be the cause w/ the info i found so far.First off I want to say hello and thanks for any help in diagnosing my problem.

My car is 2005 CTS 2.8L w/manual transmission which had been dormant for about 2.5 years. When first returning to the car the battery was completely dead. I tried to recharge it and discovered it wouldn't hold a charge. Using this battery with the charge it could hold, after trying to start it a few times it finally made it though the starter relay and I could get the sloenoid to push resulting in the "Click, Click, Click", figured the battery just didn't have enough juice. I then replaced the battery and after installing the new battery the car does nothing when trying to start. The security light on the dash and a message "service security system" shows only after the key is in the ignition for 60 seconds.

When i insert the key and turn once the security light turns on for 5 sec. then disappears, 60 sec. later it turns back on and that's when the message appears on the DIC. The exact same sequence of events occurs when turning the key twice to the ON position. The "service security system" error was also present on the old battery.
I discovered the Accessory Relay in the underhood fusebox is clicking (not the same click described in my first post) and gets hot when trying to crank, the relay itself is not bad (resistance reading 80 ohms). I checked all other fuses and relays and found no faults. I did notice that the ECM housing including the grounds connected to it is covered in a white residue. also, Looking in the underhood fusebox I noticed the wires in the Engine W/H Connector looked "messy", have you seen issues with single wires pulling slightly out of the connector?


DTCs:
U1000 (All computers throw the code)
C0244 (From ABS computer)
C0243 (From ABS Computer)

Problems Onstar diagnostic tech reported to me:
-Traction Control/Stabilitrack error (TC light always illuminated)
-ABS error
-Airbag error (Onstar's auto. crash detect/notify system is unresponsive)
-Onstar system error (a little humor in hearing Onstar tell me that)
-ECM communication error
-Transmission error
-Security system detected

Was this a flood car? I sounds like you have an ABS or BCM module that is out but to be sure lets check all fuses to see if there is a computer power fuse out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Here are the fuse panel location and description.

Roy

No, but the car was stored outside while I was overseas. Also, prior to leaving the exhaust fell off... it cracked right behind the plate which bolts to the exhaust manifold and I didn't have time to fix it before I left. I found another possible issue when cleaning the interior, under the drivers seat near the wires there was white & blue dust build up on the floor which appeared to be from corrosion. Also, under the wires I found a quarter which was covered in blue/white corrosion and a penny which was so corroded it crumbled like a cracker. This was the only place inside the car which showed any signs of corrosion, weathering or wear.

Yep I bet the BCM is out which is subject to moisture inside the car. The ABS module is weatherproof.

You will need to have it programmed in for about $130.00. Here is the location.

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Roy

Thanks, I also have recalls that need to be completed (one recall that as to do with the brake line, possibly the ABS/TC issue), do you think the dealer would attempt to do the recalls/diagnose any problems since the car wont start without any charges? Ok, I got it started by trying to crank the engine and letting the key return to the ON position, leaving the key in the ON position I reset the ECM connection by pulling the top connector slightly on and off about 8 times (each time the relays in the fuse box clicked) and then on the 8th time I heard a click (Believe is the throttle body) along with a long loud beep (lasted for about 5 sec) and then without hesitation she started up perfectly. But then it stalled and would not restart. So I did what you said and had the BCM replaced and that did the trick all fixed. Nice work guys!

Thank you for responding to my question. After checking all of the suggested items, automobile still will not start. After trying to start the vehicle, I noticed oil in the tube of the air filter vent. Have anyone seen this happen or what ccould this mean? Once again thanks.

If it isn't too excessice, don't worry about it. It is coiming through the PCV system. I don't know how many miles are on the vehicle, but wear can cause excessive crankcase pressure pushing oil up. As far as it not running, can you tell me what you have already done? Is the engine getting spark and fuel? Is the fuel pressure within spec?

So far I have changed all spark plugs plus the coils, the fuel filter and pump, pvc valve, and air filter. After replacing the fuel pump, I could hear the fuel pump turn on when turning the key, so I disconnected the fuel filter to see if the pump was pumping gas out of the tank to the filter and it was. I gapped the spark plugs at 50. So far this is all I have done. All of this occurred when I was driving and turned the car off and tried to turn it back on and the car would not start which had happended before but after sitting and letting the car cool it would start back up but this time it did not. Thanks in advance.

I want you to try something. See if the engine will start for a few seconds with starting fluid and let me know what happens.

It try to start but will not cacth.

For the past couple of days I have been experiencing some starting problems with my car. At first it seemed to only happen when the car has not been used for several hours when the temperature has dropped, but now it happens every time the engine has been turned off. The problem is that when I try to start the car it sounds as if it were trying to turn over but doesn't. the radio, lights, and the mirrors are also affected. The headlights blink on and off and the radio won't turn on. The interior lights get dim and the mirrors move very slowly... Also there is a clicking noise when turning the key. I thought that maybe its the battery but after it finally starts after 10 or 15 minutes of trying the DIC shows the battery is fine with 14 volts but the time, trip, timer, etc. is reset. could this be a battery problem or maybe the starter or alternator problem....? FYI- I have had a check engine scan done and the codes that came up are P0430, P0496, U1016,and B0561(which i can't seem to find much info on this particular code, but it shows system disabled, infor stored invalid,serial data, received) would these have anything to do with the no start issue?

If it is firing, then my guess it is a fuel related issue. check to make sure the fuel pressure is within the manufacturer's specs. Also, make sure you are getting a good hot blue snapping spark at the plugs. Let me know how many miles are on the engine too.

P0430=Catalyst System Low Efficiency Bank 2
P0496=Evaporative Emission System Flow During Non-Purge.
U1016=Lost Communication with Engine/Powertrain Control Module
B0561=Not listed
The U1016 might be related to the no start, but from the rest of the description, I doubt it. More likely it's either a faulty battery, starter, or both. The interior lights dimming tells me the starter is drawing more current than the battery can supply. You need to get that fixed first.

It is 153,000 on the engine.

The same thing is happening to my car: I do not know what it is, but someone told me it might be the crankshaft position sensor

I replaced the fuel pump but I can bearly hear it when I turn the ke on and should it spray out or just squrt?

crankshaft position sensor would be highly doubtful. The same codes means I have the same diagnosis.

You should have a specific amount of pressure produced by the pump. You check it at the fuel rail.

I replaced the starter, checked the battery and altenator: All are good:

The problem is cranking: It is the next item on my list: The only code I have is for one O2 sensor. it is unlikely it would cause a cranking problem.

Car engine cranks over but won't start. It has 55 psi fuel pressure and has spark at the plugs. It acts like it is trying to start but just wont. I tried spraying a little starting fluid to see if it would hit on that and it didn't. I am pretty sure injectors are pulsing because after cranking for a few seconds you can smell fuel out the exhaust.

Thank you for all of help. I have just a small amount of pressur.

By cranking do you mean the engine being turned when the key is turned to the start position, or do you mean the engine starting up and going 'vroom'?

If you mean the engine being turned when the key is turned, check the starter relay in the underhood relay box. I have included an image showing the location of the relay.

If it won't start with starting fluid, either you have a timing issue, low compression, or a weak spark. Recheck the spark. See if it is good hot blue snapping spark. If it is, check timing and compression. Here is a guide to help you get the job done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers

That is the problem. It should be around 50psi. If you give me the exact model and engine size, I can get that info for you.

Replaced the starter, starter relay, battery is less than one year old
and I had it checked three times, checked alternator three times. Replaced the plugs and insulators.

The situation is intermittent. It usually happens when the car has been
cranked three or four times within an a one hour period of time. the sound is a clicking sound and no start. click! click! click!
Had new starter checked again also.

It had a good hot spark do you think a crankshaft position sensor could cause this problem?

2006 cts 3.6

this is a battery or connection problem.load test the battery and check the voltage at the starter.

Yes, a bad crank sensor can cause this. Recheck the spark and make sure it is good. Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Here is the part on Amazon for $31.00 AC DELCO

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NW6XEM/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2carprcom-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B000NW6XEM&linkId=3769e51bbb06a07f8347725afab2a356

Okay, recheck the spark and let me know what you find. Also, since this vehicle has coil over ignition packs, make sure all cylinders are getting spark and get back to us so we can keep helping you.

Cheers,

55 to 60 psi. That would blast out at you.

I need to know which 6-cylinder engine you have. 2.8 or 3.6

Yes there all getting fire but it comes and goes. Weird!