Timing belt alignment and replacement?

First pic link was corrupted

Hello,

Well, here is how I do it.

If the timing belt needs replacing and the Water Pump is run by it, I won't do the job unless I replace the water pump. There is no sense in doing one and then possibly having to pay the same labor again to have the other done with a few of months.

This is how I look at the water pump and replacing the timing belt. The timing belt has stretched over the years and mileage, which in turn reduces the stress and tension on the old water pump. So, when new belt is put on it will create more stress and tension on the old water pump which will cause it to fail within about 6 months or less.

So, I feel the dealer is trying to make some extra money by only doing the belt and hoping within the next couple months or so you will need to water pump done.

Also I would make sure that all timing components that can be replaced are.

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Was it dealer oem belt? Supposed to be every 100k or 100 months. You are told to inspect it at shorter periods so you could have it inspected? That engine is severely damaged when belt breaks. I would change it sooner than later.

Depending on what engine this is, it sounds like it is a timing belt. If you have a single overhead cam (SOHC) engine this is a non interference engine and if the timing belt broke then the engine will just spin over and not start.

However, if this is a dual overhead cam engine then it would have locked up if the timing belt broke. So if it is turning over then it is not the timing belt.

Here is a guide that will help with an engine that is not starting:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Also, here is a guide that will help with a timing belt repair.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-timing-belt-works

FYI - I am only showing a DOHC engine for the Forester so I suspect you have anther issue then the timing belt. Based on this, let's run through the guide above and this one as well to figure out what we have and do not in order to get the engine to start. This will help you check for codes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Let us know and we can go from there.

Okay, I attached the procedure for replacing the belt for you below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-timing-belt-works

Let us know if you have any other questions

Roy

1) Remove V-belt cover, V-belt and air conditioning compressor drive belt tensioner.

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2) Remove pulley bolt. To lock crankshaft, use Special Tool (ST).
ST 499977100 CRANKSHAFT PULLEY WRENCH
3) Remove crankshaft pulley.

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4) Remove left-hand belt cover.

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5) Remove right-hand belt cover.

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6) Remove front belt cover.

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Timing Belt

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1) Remove timing belt guide. (Manual Transmission (MT) vehicles only)
2) If alignment mark and/or arrow mark (which indicates rotation direction) on timing belt fade away, put new marks before removing timing belt as follows:

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1) Turn crankshaft using ST, and align alignment marks on crankshaft sprocket, left-hand intake camshaft sprocket, left-hand exhaust camshaft sprocket, right-hand intake camshaft sprocket and right hand exhaust camshaft sprocket with notches of belt cover and cylinder block.
ST 499987500 CRANKSHAFT SOCKET

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2) Using white paint, put alignment and/or arrow marks on timing belts in relation to the sprockets.

Z1: 54.5 tooth length
Z2: 51 tooth length
Z3: 28 tooth length

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3) Remove belt idler.

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4) Remove timing belt.

Caution: After timing belt has been removed, never rotate intake and exhaust, camshaft sprocket. If camshaft sprocket is rotated, the intake and exhaust valve heads strike together and valve stems are bent.

The front pulley should fall off it sits in the gear with a locating pin only, with the bold off it should just pull off by hand, of a worst a gentle pry with a lever.