2006 Mazda 6 A/C Problems

WHY DON'T YOU FEEL THE EVAPORATOR LINES GOING INTO THE FIREWALL - COLD?

I'M NOT REAL UP ON YOUR VEHICLE, BUT THERE COULD BE SOME FACTORS WITH YOURS THAT ARE FOUND ON OTHER VEHICLES

I LOOKED UP YOUR SYSTEM IN "PRODEMAND", I FOUND A DIAGRAM (AT BOTTOM)

THERE ARE DOORS IN THE SYSTEM WHICH "COULD" MOVE ELECTRICALLY / MECHANICALLY / OR USING VACUUM

SEEMS YOUR MODEL COULD HAVE MANUAL OR AUTOMATIC CONTROLS

REGARDLESS- THE DOOR BEING IN THE CORRECT SPOT AT THE RIGHT SETTING IS THE MISSION!

DOORS MIGHT JAM/ MIGHT BREAK/ SOFT DRINK SPILLS MIGHT HAVE IT GLUED SHUT (SAW THAT ONCE!) / AN ACTUATOR MAY HAVE DIED/ ACTUATOR LINKAGE CAME LOOSE/ A MANUAL CABLE OR WIRE MAY HAVE BROKE OR COME LOOSE/ ETC

IF IT HAS VACUUM OPERATED STUFF, A HOSE MAY HAVE COME LOOSE/ HOLE IN A HOSE/ VACUUM SWITCHING MECHANISMS MAY BE BROKE

WITH VACUUM STUFF, THE MORE UNDER LOAD YOU ARE PULLING WHILE DRIVING OR "FLOORING IT" MAKES VACUUM DROP DRASTICALLY (BY ITSELF) NOT TO MENTION ADD IN A HOLE IN A HOSE. DEPENDING ON THE "DEFAULT POSITIONS" OF THE DOORS OR WHERE YOUR CONTROLS ARE SUPPOSED TO PUT 'EM. A DOOR MAY OPEN OR CLOSE WITH HIGH OR LOW VACUUM. (MAYBE LIKE YOU SAID ABOUT 4TH GEAR) JUST A SPECULATION

AN EXAMPLE OF THE DOOR THING IS MY DAD'S 1976 FORD TRUCK, HEAT BLASTS INTO THE FLOOR 'TILL YOU PULL A HARD HILL OR FLOOR IT, THEN THE DOOR WOULD MOVE, HEAT WOULD THEN COME OUT THE DEFROST VENTS, IT WOULD SWITCH BACK TO THE FLOOR WHEN WE LEVELED OUT OR GOT OFF OF THE GAS.

THIS IS ABOUT ALL I CAN OFFER, I DO HAVE YOU A DIAGRAM BELOW

GOOD LUCK

LET US KNOW HOW IT GOES

THE MEDIC

THE "JUMPING" (IF IT'S MINOR) MIGHT BE THE A/C CLUTCH CYCLING OFF AND ON (WHEN IT'S ON, THE COMPRESSOR STARTS TURNING FROM A DEAD STOP)

AS FAR AS CHECKING THE A/C WITH YOUR CHARGE KIT, ME AND YOU BOTH AIN'T A/C GUYS, NOR DO I OWN A SET OF GAUGES, THE BEST-US WAY TO USE A KIT LIKE THAT IS TO SEE SOMEONE WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING USE/ CHECK OUT THE SYSTEM.

IF YOU WILL TAKE THE BRAND NAME OR IT'S ADVERTISED NAME OVER TO "YOU TUBE", IT MIGHT BE POSSIBLE TO SEE A FACTORY REP EXPLAIN IT FULLY, SO THAT YOU KNOW HOW TO USE IT CORRECTLY. (SEE IF IT'S GOT A GOOD CHARGE/ OR NEEDS SOME - DUMPING A FULL CAN IT IT MAY BE TOO MUCH AND MAY HARM THE SYSTEM)

THE ONE I USE IS CALLED "A/C PRO" (IT'S ON YOUR TUBE TOO), I LIKE IT BECAUSE ONCE THE "BEGINNER CAN" IS EXPENDED, I CAN STILL USE THE "TOP ASSEMBLY" WITH THE SMALLER LESS EXPENSIVE CANS. I HAVE A "SPARE CAR" ('95 NEON) THAT IS SELDOM DRIVEN, IT WILL HOLD A CHARGE FOR ABOUT A MONTH, I CAN TOP IT OFF WITH ABOUT 3/4 OF A CAN AND GET ANOTHER MONTH OF COOL. WIFE'S FORD ESCAPE USUALLY NEEDS ONE CAN TO MAKE IT THRU THE SUMMER. AS "CHEAP" AS THE GAUGE IS ON THESE CHARGE KITS, YOU DON'T HAVE TO "MAX OUT" ON THE GAUGES PREFERRED PSI. IN FACT, IF YOU ARE AT THE BOTTOM END OF THE SCALE, VEHICLE RUNNING, A/C AND BLOWER ON MAX, AND YOU ARE GETTING REALLY COOL AIR OUT OF IT, I'D STOP THERE, BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY!

ABOUT THE DOORS, AS I MENTIONED, THEY CAN BE ACTUATED BY SEVERAL DIFFERENT MEANS. HECK, A DOOR CAN JUST BREAK AT IT'S HINGE PINS AND WON'T WORK EVEN IF AN ACTUATOR IS IN PERFECT SHAPE.

MY PAP'S TRUCK WAS JUST AN EXAMPLE OF VACUUM ACTUATED DOORS MOVING POSITION-WISE WITH VACUUM BEING HIGH OR LOW.

YOU MAY HAVE "INTERNAL DOORS" WHICH MAY DIVERT AIR OVER THE HEATER CORE WHEN USING "HEAT", THEN CLOSES THAT OFF, THEN THE AIR FROM THE BLOWER IS NOW DIVERTED THRU THE A/C EVAPORATOR WHEN YOU TURN THE A/C ON.

FORTUNATELY, I DRIVE A '77 CJ-5 AND A '46 WILLYS (NEVER HAD NUTHIN' BUT CJs, SINCE I WAS ALLOWED ON THE ASPHALT IN 1981).

"WILLY" SORTA HAS NO ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROLS EXCEPT FOR MY HOMEMADE HEATER BOX (HEATER CORE AND SQUIRREL CAGE FAN) I PUT IN DURING THE WINTER ALONG W/ THE HARD TOP.

"MR. JEEP" (MY '77 CJ-5) HAS HEAT AND OUTSIDE AIR (VENT). EVERYTHING IS CABLE CONTROLLED.

HEAT IN THE FLOOR OR DEFROST OR A COMBINATION DEPENDING ON HOW FAR I PULL OUT THE DEFROST KNOB.

WHEREAS "HEAT" OR "VENT" (BEFORE IT MAKES IT TO FLOOR OR DEFROST) IS CONTROLLED BY AN "INTERNAL DOOR" (CABLE CONTROLLED)

IN PIC 1) THE LEFT SIDE OF THE DOOR SWINGS UP OR DOWN. "DOWN" TO RUN AIR THRU THE HEATER CORE (WHICH IS ALWAYS HOT ON A CJ) OR "UP" WHICH BYPASSES THE HOT CORE, AND ALLOWS OUTSIDE AIR TO BLOW THRU THE SYSTEM.

JUST SHOWING YOU THE HIDDEN STUFF/ HOW AIR FLOWS THRU "MY SYSTEM". IF MY CABLE BROKE, I COULD MAYBE HAVE NOTHING BUT HEAT, NOTHING BUT AIR, OR A COMBINATION

SOME SYSTEMS CLOSE OFF THE COOLANT FLOW TO THE HEATER CORE WHEN THE A/C IS ON (STILL MAN-MADE, CAN BREAK)

AGAIN TRY DIFFERENT SEARCHES ON YOU TUBE, LIKE YOUR VEHICLE'S INFO AND HVAC, OR A/C, ETC. YOU MIGHT FIND A SIMILAR SITUATION TO YOURS. I'VE SEEN SOME "HEATER TREATER" VIDEOS SPECIFIC TO CERTAIN CARS. I DIDN'T CARE ABOUT THE TREATER PART, BUT THE VIDEO SHOWED ME HOW TO GET TO AN ACTUATOR, AS IT CONTINUED ON TO THE TREATER PART.

I HOPE I'M AIDING YOU JUST A LITTLE BIT

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC