Engine stalling at idle?

First eliminate all vacuum or air leaks in the system (very important) we can use these guides to help fix the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Please run down these guides and report back.

My 2003 Hyundai Accent Hatchback wont start after i put gas in it. It starts, then immediately shuts off, and the battery light turns on, but i don't think its the battery because i just recently got it charged. I have to pump gas with the car still running, in order to not have it shut off after im done pumping the gas. What could the problem be, and how do i fix this?

Have the fuel pressure checked and also the idle speed control valve/motor-also the coolant temperature sensor-

Thank you so much. I'll go have that done immediately. Also, while i'm driving the car, it feels like its switching gears, do you know what that could be? When i stop at a red light, then try to go, the car goes VERY slow and also vibrates/shakes.

Is it the battery or Check Engine Light that is indicating?

Battery

Have the charging system checked. You could have a failing alternator.

Hello. I've had my 2003 Hyundai accent for a little over 2 years now and have never had any problems up until about 2 weeks ago.

Pretty much while driving, whenever I stop or slow down, my lights start to flicker, my heat will turn on and off, and then the car will stall. In the past the car started up again no problem and would keep going until I stopped again, but the last time I drove it a few days ago, it would turn over but then would stall again before I could even put the car in drive.

The strange thing is that my car doesn't do this all the time. It has hissy fits and works sometimes and stalls other times.

I live in an area of Canada that gets really cold so I figured it might just be from the weather, but I've ruled that out since it starts fine after not plugging it in all night in -30 Celsius weather, and the stalls seem to happen after the car has warmed up and is running for a little bit.

have your fan belt and tensioner checked they may be worn out also try this on this link........
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

I have a 2001 hyundai accent 1.6L automatic, with just under 64,000 miles. I have owned it for almost 3 years with no problems whatsoever until the very end of may. The car will do absolutely fine while driving, but often while applying the brakes, it will stall. the car starts back up instantly. It will also sometimes begin to rev itself while I am stationary at a red light. The RPM guage will leap up and down and the car seems to pull itself very hard, so I have to either let off of the brake and re-apply or shift to neutral... the neutral shift technique seems no to work thought. My mechanic has replaced the IAC Valve, Throttle Position Sensor, and crank sensor. He has also cleaned the mass airflow sensor, but so far nothing seems to be the answer. I'm a broke college student and I am in desparate need fo some help. I simply cannot afford to keep putting money into pointless repairs on this stupid car. Please help me!

Hi
Think you maybe having problem with Vacuum Brake Booster. Hav eyour repair person check it for leaks in diaphram and operation of check valve. Do brakes need more force than before problem? do you hear a hiss noise when brakes applied?

I don't hear any hissing noises, however there is a loud squeak (sounds almost like letting air out of balloon) when i take my foot off the brake. The brakes do seem to need a little bit of extra force... the car also seems to buck often when sitting stationary at a red light or stop sign. It has also stalled a few times while in PARK

it started a couple of days ago, each time i start the car i must push the gaz pedal for it to start, 50% of the time the car shut off by its self , but when it stays on it runs good until i stop it... is there a way to set the idle of the car higher or is there a fuel injection problem??

Has the check engine light come on? It sounds like a throttle position sensor or idle air control valve. However, this is a guess without a check engine light. Use this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.

yes the check engine light came on when the problem started but it dosent always do it, the light is always on in the dashboard but the car seems to start very good 70% of the time...

If the light has been on, thre is a trouble code stored in the computer. Take the car to a naonally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer. That will tell you where the problem is coming from.

Let me know what you find, and then I will be able to help better. Also, most of the stores will not charge you to scan the computer. So, there shouldn't be any money out of pocket.

Joe

thanks alot :) i'll have it checked and i'll give you news on what the problem is. I hope its nothing major to fix...

I just bought this car. I did take it for a test drive but I guess I should have driving just a bit ferther. Anyway, it start very good when cold and stays idleing. After it warms up, it will not stay idleing. I have to press on the gas pedel just a bit to keep it running when it's completely warmed up.
Found this problem yesterday when I drove it home. I checked the plugs and wires and let me tell you, the person who sold me the car was lucky it ran at all. I changed the plugs and wires but the problem did not go away.
Yes, the Check Engine light is on and was on when I test drove the car. But I had a Jeep in which had the check engine light on and nothing was wrong with it. Yes, I took that Jeep to get tested.
The car sounds like it has very good potential. Can you help me figure out why it won't stay idleing when warmed up?

Hi Whiteknight1969,

Thank you for the donation.

When the CEL indicates, it can be one of more than a hundred reasons and can be anything from a poorly closed fuel filler cap to an engine or transmission sensor fault.

Get a scan done and let me know the exact trouble code so we can understand and determine if it is related to the idling fault.

When idling spped is too low, the usual cause are dirty throttle body and Idle Air control valve. Get them cleaned and retest.

I got the car tested and it had 8 codes in all. I took it to a mech shop I know very well and the owener suggested I disconnect the battery for 30 min. Before this he checked the MAF and it was bad. I replaced this along with the fuel cap. When I disconnected the battery I noticed that it is to small for the car. It looks like a lawnmore battery. I will replace this when I have more funds.
The car does idle when warm now but it idles lower then what it should. The check ingine light did come back on. I will take your advice and clean the throttle body and idle control valve this weekend. I will replace the battery by next Fri.
It is a very good little car other then these glitches. I've already went through a tank full of gas and it gets over 31MPG. Which is MUCH better then the tank I use to drive and that's another story. I'm sure I know what's wrong with it, but Desel parts are VERY expensive. Also, I would either have to take it somewhere or get a book and TRY to do it myself. Needless to say, I would rather have a profesional work on my truck. Even though I know I can learn, I also know I don't have all the electronic tools to fine tune it after I replace the part or parts I believe are giving me the problem.
Thank you very much and I will let you know what happens after I clean or replace those parts.

Thank you for the input.

I believe cleaning the throttle body and IAC would solve your problem. Job is not too difficult and you should be able to do it with a can of carb cleaner.

it will crank but not fire. not sure it is getting gas we tried jumping it still no results

if gas is dumped down the throttle body does the vehicle fire up? and run till no more gas is present? does it keep running untill it is shut off after primed with gas?

Hi i have a 1996 hyundai accent it will not stay running at idle and the check ligt is on and it smoke alil drives fine once it its going but will not stay running while at idle and also the fan not kicking on help me

Inspect and test the idle speed control actuator, mass airflow and throttle position sensor-For the radiator fan check the coolant temperature sensor and fan relay-

1996 Hyundai accent excessive vibration, feels its going to stall. Sometimes have to rest foot on accelerator and it stops the engine shaking. Cant notice when driving only when stationary. Have replaced fuel filter, cleaned throttle body, major service and tune and has no fault codes. Any ideas?

Seems the idling speed is too low. Did you clean the IAC? It is not attached to the throttle body and is the main item for idle control.

Havent done that yet, when i turn the key over it doesnt make any sound from the fuel pump, with this model should it make the sound of the fuel pump turning on when i turn the key?

Not all vehicles primes the fuel system when ignition is turned on and if I am not mistaken, Hyundai does not have this feature. the fuel pump would only prime when engine is started or while cranking.

As long as you don't have problem starting the engine, you need not be worried about this.

Hi, i cleaned out the IAC valve today, it had a bit of build up but not much, gave it a good clean tho. The car still vibrates and feels like it wants to stall. I'm guessing it cant be a sensor if it has no fault codes? I've also had the injectors checked when i got the service. any other ideas? Thanks

What is the idling speed?

It doesnt have a tacho so i'm not sure but it seems to idle normally it just coughs and vibrates and wants to stall frequently. I took it to hyundai dealership about 4 weeks ago and they hooked it up to their computer and adjusted the idle and checked leads, plugs, fuel injectors etc but couldnt find anything wrong with it. Then a week after i took it to a different mechanics and got a major service and new fuel filter and new air filter and they checked the idle and everything and they said it was a dirty throttle body so they cleaned it out and it was okay for a day or so then it started happening again. I then took it to a third mechanic who went over everything and hooked it up to their computer but go no codes, they said it was the throttle body and that the previous mechanic hadnt cleaned arount to rim of the butterfly, they cleaned it and told me to drive 80km in distance to reset the computer. i done that but problem was happening still. It also has had the timing belt replaced about 2000km's ago and today i cleaned out the IAC valve. So it idles fine when i start the car up then a few minutes into the drive as soon as i pull up somewhere the problem starts happening.

Seems the idling speed is not constant causing the problem. Check for vacuum leaks and there is possibility the IAC is sticking causing erratic idling.

Hope no adjustment had been made on the speed adjustment screw as it is factory set and any tampering can cause idling problems.

i havent had the vacuum hoses checked yet but now when i start my car it has noisy injector sound that its never had before. Would this be related or possibly the problem making it shudder and want to stall?

Yes, that is possible. That could mean misfirings and erratic idling.