Engine stalling at idle?

My 2003 Hyundai Accent Hatchback wont start after I put gas in it. It starts, then immediately shuts off, and the battery light turns on, but I don't think its the battery because I just recently got it charged. I have to pump gas with the car still running, in order to not have it shut off after im done pumping the gas. What could the problem be, and how do I fix this?

Thank you so much. I'll go have that done immediately. Also, while i'm driving the car, it feels like its switching gears, do you know what that could be? When I stop at a red light, then try to go, the car goes VERY slow and also vibrates/shakes.

Battery

Hello. I've had my 2003 Hyundai accent for a little over 2 years now and have never had any problems up until about 2 weeks ago.

Pretty much while driving, whenever I stop or slow down, my lights start to flicker, my heat will turn on and off, and then the car will stall. In the past the car started up again no problem and would keep going until I stopped again, but the last time I drove it a few days ago, it would turn over but then would stall again before I could even put the car in drive.

The strange thing is that my car doesn't do this all the time. It has hissy fits and works sometimes and stalls other times.

I live in an area of Canada that gets really cold so I figured it might just be from the weather, but I've ruled that out since it starts fine after not plugging it in all night in -30 Celsius weather, and the stalls seem to happen after the car has warmed up and is running for a little bit.

I have a 2001 hyundai accent 1.6L automatic, with just under 64,000 miles. I have owned it for almost 3 years with no problems whatsoever until the very end of may. The car will do absolutely fine while driving, but often while applying the brakes, it will stall. The car starts back up instantly. It will also sometimes begin to rev itself while I am stationary at a red light. The RPM guage will leap up and down and the car seems to pull itself very hard, so I have to either let off of the brake and re-apply or shift to neutral. The neutral shift technique seems no to work thought. My mechanic has replaced the IAC Valve, Throttle Position Sensor, and crank sensor. He has also cleaned the mass airflow sensor, but so far nothing seems to be the answer. I'm a broke college student and I am in desparate need fo some help. I simply cannot afford to keep putting money into pointless repairs on this stupid car. Please help me!

I don't hear any hissing noises, however there is a loud squeak (sounds almost like letting air out of balloon) when I take my foot off the brake. The brakes do seem to need a little bit of extra force. The car also seems to buck often when sitting stationary at a red light or stop sign. It has also stalled a few times while in PARK

It started a couple of days ago, each time I start the car I must push the gaz pedal for it to start, 50% of the time the car shut off by its self, but when it stays on it runs good until I stop it. Is there a way to set the idle of the car higher or is there a fuel injection problem?

Yes the check engine light came on when the problem started but it dosent always do it, the light is always on in the dashboard but the car seems to start very good 70% of the time.

Thanks alot :) i'll have it checked and i'll give you news on what the problem is. I hope its nothing major to fix.

I just bought this car. I did take it for a test drive but I guess I should have driving just a bit ferther. Anyway, it start very good when cold and stays idleing. After it warms up, it will not stay idleing. I have to press on the gas pedel just a bit to keep it running when it's completely warmed up.
Found this problem yesterday when I drove it home. I checked the plugs and wires and let me tell you, the person who sold me the car was lucky it ran at all. I changed the plugs and wires but the problem did not go away.
Yes, the Check Engine light is on and was on when I test drove the car. But I had a Jeep in which had the check engine light on and nothing was wrong with it. Yes, I took that Jeep to get tested.
The car sounds like it has very good potential. Can you help me figure out why it won't stay idleing when warmed up?

I got the car tested and it had 8 codes in all. I took it to a mech shop I know very well and the owener suggested I disconnect the battery for 30 min. Before this he checked the MAF and it was bad. I replaced this along with the fuel cap. When I disconnected the battery I noticed that it is to small for the car. It looks like a lawnmore battery. I will replace this when I have more funds.
The car does idle when warm now but it idles lower then what it should. The check ingine light did come back on. I will take your advice and clean the throttle body and idle control valve this weekend. I will replace the battery by next Fri.
It is a very good little car other then these glitches. I've already went through a tank full of gas and it gets over 31MPG. Which is MUCH better then the tank I use to drive and that's another story. I'm sure I know what's wrong with it, but Desel parts are VERY expensive. Also, I would either have to take it somewhere or get a book and TRY to do it myself. Needless to say, I would rather have a profesional work on my truck. Even though I know I can learn, I also know I don't have all the electronic tools to fine tune it after I replace the part or parts I believe are giving me the problem.
Thank you very much and I will let you know what happens after I clean or replace those parts.