A/C not working

Tiny
ROMULUS1066
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 FORD CROWN VICTORIA
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
Problem with control for A/C and heat. A/C blows but no cooling, heater just keeps getting hotter and hotter until turned off manually. All belts ok
Tuesday, December 15th, 2015 AT 10:31 AM

24 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Try pulling hvac fuse inside car it's fuse 18 it may reset temp actuator if not check to see if it's getting power. You are supposed to remove dash to get to it. See pic. This is for manual a/c only not auto temp
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2015 AT 1:05 PM
Tiny
04CVPI
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
  • 2004 FORD CROWN VICTORIA
  • 4.6L
  • RWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 124 MILES
My car does leak freeon. But it takes a good month or more to leak to where the compressor cycles very rapidly no matter if I'm driving or idling. But if I fill it to where it's full.. It stay engaged while idling(34 degrees coming out of the vents) but as soon as I start driving it cycles on and off every 5-7 seconds. Even if the cab of the car is still hot it cycles on and off alot when I'm driving. It'll get down to 38 degrees but it takes a lot longer with the compressor cycling than it would with it staying engaged. Could it be a bad high pressure switch or what. Any help is appreciated
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
Hello,

This sounds more like you do have a leak and the system is not full but to be sure we must check the high side reading this guide will help with that.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-conditioner-leak-detection

Please run down these guides and report back.

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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MDM
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Thanks for this post I had this problem and had to replace the compressor which cost me $189.00 to guides are great btw.
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KATBABY62
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 FORD CROWN VICTORIA
Air Conditioning problem
2001 Ford Crown Victoria 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 190k miles

I jumped someones car off a week ago and immediatey started having trouble with the air conditioning blowing intermittantly.

In fact. At times it won't blow at all and then a hard jarring (like a speed bump) makes it come back on and blow. The blowing capacity has decreased and when I step on the break it blows harder.

Is this an electrical problem caused from jumping another car off? Or is this simply a compressor going out?
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Check for bad ground wire
suspect bad blower motor
place fan speed at high check for good power and ground at the blower motor
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MRINTERCEPTOR
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 FORD CROWN VICTORIA
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 167,000 MILES
The car seems to have an issue blowing warm air. Wait until the car is running at operating temp and still blows only cool air. Air is warmer than vent, much cooler than it was a week ago, slowly tapered into no warmth at all.

Thermostat, heater core, or coolant flush? Hopefully someone can help, but I have no idea how to change a heater core, and it would be GREATLY appreciated if anyone could gimme a clue if that particular person shall believe that it is the heater core of exactly how I would approach heater core replacement
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Heater Core "” Plugged

WARNING: The heater core inlet hose will become too hot to handle if the system is working correctly.

Check to see that the engine coolant is at the correct level.
Start the engine and turn on the heater.
When the engine coolant reaches operating temperature, feel the heater core inlet and outlet hose to see if they are hot.
If the inlet hose is not hot:

the thermostat is not working correctly.
If the outlet hose is not hot:

the heater core may have an air pocket.
The heater core may be restricted or plugged.
If both are hot, the temperature blend door in the heater plenum may be broken or stuck.
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WATETEO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 FORD CROWN VICTORIA
Air Conditioning problem
2000 Ford Crown Victoria V8

hello im an autotech from miami just graduated so dont have that much experience. Im working on a crown victoria but the a/c is giving a problem. Ok the thing is that wen the a/c is on its not cooling. The compressor was coming on and off rapetly so I let some freon out the system until the compresor stayed on BUT it still wasnot cooling. So I decided to recover. Put vacum on it and recharge the system. Wen I started to recharge the system the pressure went to 35psi but the clutch wouldnot stay on so I put a little more freon in it thats when the riciever started to get a little cold and it started to cool a little in the cabin but. The pressure was about 45 to 50psi thats not normal and the compressor was still not staying on. And one more thing wen the clutch kicks in it makes a tacking noise that goes along with the clutch until it disingage.
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
AIR CONDITIONER PROBLEM: INTERMITTENT COOLING

An A/C system that blows cold air for awhile then warm air is probably freezing up. This can be caused by air and moisture in the system that allows ice to form and block the orifice tube.

Evacuating the system with a vacuum pump will purge it of unwanted air and moisture. Evacuation should be done with a vacuum pump that is capable of achieving and holding a high vacuum (29 inches) for at least 30 to 45 minutes.

For best performance, an A/C system should contain less than 2% air by weight. For every 1% increase in the amount of air that displaces refrigerant in the system, there will be a corresponding drop of about one degree in cooling performance. More than 6% air can cause a very noticeable drop in cooling performance, and possibly cause evaporator freeze-up.

Air can get inside a system through leaks, by not evacuating the system prior to recharging it, and/or by recharging the system with refrigerant that is contaminated with air. Recovery equipment can suck air into the recycling tank if an A/C system contains air or if the system has a leak. For this reason, the refrigerant recovery tank on recycling equipment must be checked and purged daily. On some equipment, this is done automatically. But on equipment that lacks an automatic purge cycle, tank pressure and temperature has to be measured and compared to a static pressure reference chart.

Some refrigerant identifier equipment can detect air in the system as well as other contaminants. An identifier should be used to check the refrigerant before the system is serviced to prevent cross-contamination of recovery and recycling equipment.

Possible causes of intermittent cooling in a manual A/C system that might be caused by an electrical problem include:

Faulty low pressure cutout switch. This switch prevents the compressor from running if the refrigerant level is low. If the cutout switch is not reading correctly, it can prevent the compressor from coming on.

Faulty compressor clutch. The magnetic clutch on the compressor requires full battery voltage to engage. If the voltage to the clutch is low, or the clutch coils have too much resistance, or the air gap in the clutch is too great, the clutch may not engage to drive the compressor.

Faulty compressor clutch relay. Check to see if the relay is receiving voltage when the A/C is turned on. Also check the relay wiring and ground connections. If bypassing the relay with a jumper wire or routing battery voltage directly to the compressor clutch makes the A/C work, the relay is probably bad.

Faulty A/C control switch. The switch may be worn and not making good contact when it is turned on.

Some possible causes of intermittent cooling (or no cooling) on automatic A/C systems include all of the above, plus:

A problem in the control module or control head (this usually requires using a dealer scan tool to read fault codes and perform self-diagnostics).

A bad temperature sensor (an ambient air temperature sensor, interior air temperature sensor, evaporator temperature sensor, or sunload sensor). Again, a factory scan tool is usually required to perform diagnostics on the system.
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVID LINDLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1999 FORD CROWN VICTORIA
  • 110,000 MILES
How to replace cabin filter on 11999 crown Victoria, also my air conditioner blows out very hot air but the air conditioner is cold under hood. Regarding the ac we can disconnect the battery and then reconnect and ac will work properly for a time then it will just blow hot air.
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
As far as the AC, check to make sure the blend door is working. As far as the cabin air filter, it doesn't have one.
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVID LINDLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thanks for the information, but why do the auto parts stores sell a cabin filter for a 99 crown Victoria if it does not have one. I followed directions in the box, but don't see anything guess I will put it all back together. Thank you
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
I checked my info and found nothing. I even went to AZ online and they don't sell one. Could they have confused the year?
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVID LINDLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I don't think so, I will just put it back together. Thank you ac delco has a whole listing for the 99 crown vic, but everything on line says it does not have one. This is very confusing for a non-mechanic
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
I can understand.
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SHORT.SPENCER
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 1999 FORD CROWN VICTORIA
  • 145,000 MILES
I have been have problems with my ac lately. It seems to be pulling too much power from the engine but I'm not sure. It makes the engine very very laggy and will blow cold for a while and then it blows warm, humid air. Today it did that, blew warm and humid air and I just so happened to look down at the temperature gauge and it read HOT. Not on the red but almost. No warning lights on the dash were on so it was very odd. I turned the ac off and immediately after the temp gauge dropped back down to normal. Any idea on what the problem is and or what I need to do or check?
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check for coolant in system and pressure check coolant system. Check to see if cooing fan/s is working or coming on at high speed when a/c is on.
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZOAM43
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1989 FORD CROWN VICTORIA
Air Conditioning problem
1989 Ford Crown Victoria V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a 1989 Crown Victoria LTD. My engine has been replaced with a 1996 5.0 I believe. I havent had any problems with it since I bought it about 9 months ago anyways I was driving it the other day I had been drivng for about 15 mins. With the a/c on full blast and I started to notice smoke coming from the vents and it just kept blowing the smoke until I turned the a/c off. The smoke also smells just like anti freeze real bad. What might my problem be?
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
Sounds to me like a blown heater core! Very common thing when smoke is coming out of the vents, was there anysmoke down in the engine compartment?
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Monday, August 5th, 2019 AT 5:49 PM (Merged)

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