Engine won't turn over

Hello,

It sounds like the starter motor had gone out but to be sure lets do a simply test using a test light.

Here is a guide that shows what you are in for when testing the starter and how to replace it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

If no power is present when changing it over find the starter relay under the hood in the fuse box. There are two ways to attack this problem. One is to pop the cover off the relay, reinstall the relay into the socket, and squeeze the contact. There are actually three circuits. If the starter cranks the engine when you squeeze the contact, you will know the high-current starter circuit works, and the medium-current circuit that runs the starter solenoid, (which turns on the starter) is working. That just leaves the low-current circuit from the ignition switch.

The second method involves removing the starter relay, then taking four measurements in the socket terminals with a test light. This all assumes there isn't some silly anti-theft system preventing the starter from engaging.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken

Ok first thing I would do is simulate the rain (hose the truck down) will it start? If not then get a digital multi meter and hood up to the brown wire at the starter and turn the key to the crank position is there power? Get back to me with what you find.

When you mean it wont start do you mean it wont crank over or it will crank over but not run?

Yes, there's a neutral safety switch, but the entire starter system is out of the picture when the engine is running. Stalling AND a failure to crank indicate the engine is locked up. That rarely happens without some kind of noise or warning first.

You should be able to turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand with a socket and 1/2" breaker bar. If a connecting rod broke and caused it to lock up, that would not happen without you hearing a lot of noise first. If something caused a loss of oil pressure, the pistons would scuff and you'd notice overheating and a severe loss of power long before the engine quit completely. If it quit instantly, as though you had turned off the ignition switch, that is typical of a failed sensor, but that wouldn't stop the starter from cranking the engine normally.

Lets start with some electrical basics. Measure the battery voltage, then measure it again while a helper tries to crank the engine. Also, measure it with just the head lights turned on.

Hello,

Well, it could be the Alternator. Check out link below for testing...

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_test_alternator.htm

Another possibility is a Draw on battery. Check link below for testing...

https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/why_is_my_car_battery_dead_over_night.htm

.

I assume it is not cranking? It could be a starter motor failure or ignition switch.
If it does crank, get the fuel pressure checked to verify fuel delivery.

Roy

If the fuel pressure is correct and injectors are pulsing-turn around and check for spark if okay-check valve and ignition timing

Worn solenoid contacts. They can be replaced separately but most people just replace the entire starter. If I'm right, it will crank eventually if you continue to cycle the ignition switch to "crank" a number of times.

Caradiodoc