This is a major engine repair and is WAY beyond what an experienced do-it-yourselfer can handle. You can prove that to yourself by the size of the estimate you were most likely given.
Cylinder heads should be unbolted in steps to prevent them from warping, and they must be tightened to very precise amounts and in a specific sequence, again, so they don't become warped. Anytime something is leaking related to a head gasket, the head must be checked for flatness and cracks. Checking for flatness is best done at an engine machine shop because you need a precision straightedge and a .002" feeler gauge. They also test for cracks chemically and / or magnetically.
You need to clean the cylinder head and block surfaces, and they need the proper "surface finish" for the new gasket to bite into, otherwise you'll have more leaks later and you'll be doing the job a second time. Before you think seriously of doing this job yourself, get a copy of the manufacturer's service manual and read through the pages of instructions with line drawings to see if you still want to attempt it. There will also be a page of special tools you'll need, and a list of torque specs that must be followed. You can also go to the top of this page, point to "Repair and Service", then click on "Manuals" to go to a web site where you can buy a subscription for your vehicle. Don't waste your money on Haynes or Chiltons manuals. Those only cover things do-it-yourselfers can handle.
Jul 5, 2015 at 10:33 PM
