Engine starter not working?

kinda sounds like the battery is low, charge it then have it checked for condition. autoparts do for free. they can also check to see if your charging system is working which may be the case here as low voltage causes all kinds of problems for computer systems. also if belt and tensioner havne' tbeen changed at 60k then do so for both as its recommended

This guide help help confirm the issue

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please run down this guide and report back.

All lights were strong. Windows electronic they all work well when key turned. And tried again to charge vehicle on a charger over an hour with no results.

Test for power at the small wire on the starter when cranking

See this guide, it will help


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Wiring diagram for the starting circuit is attached below

Will not start, battery charged. When key turned nothing happens.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com. This could be the result of a few issues. First, make sure the battery is full charged:

Here are directions for checking the battery:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Next, make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight as well as the ground to the engine block from the battery.

If that all checks good, I need you to do the following (go to section 2 of this link. It will discuss no crank situations):

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

If that still does not help, ask someone to help you. Have the helper turn the key to the start position while you check for power to the smaller wire on the starter. That is the solenoid wire and should have twelve volts only when the key is in the start position. If it does and all wiring is good from the battery, the starter will need replaced.

If there is no power, then the starter relay needs to be checked. The relay is located under the hood in the power distribution box. I have attached a few pictures to help you locate it. Note: To do an easy test, remove the starter relay and switch it with another relay in the box with the same part number.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe

Computer problem 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 59,800 miles

My car will not start, only makes a clicking sound when I turn key. I am told that all 6 coils are dead and that my catalytic converter is clogged, and I need new computer. Could this be due to neglecting to have a tune up ?

Wow . . .first off who told you all of this? Sounds a little much for a no start. I would get another opinion. Sounds a little fishy to me. I think you need to replace the battery is all here is a guide to confirm the problem and another to show you how to install the battery.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

Please run down these guides and report back

Cheers, Ken

i have a 2005 escape that wouldn't start, then when it did it ran real ruff. when it was tested by a mechanic he said i need plugs, coils, and a catalytic converter. he also said ford put out a paper about this. took it back to a ford dealer and i'm still waiting for the full bill. they replaced the plugs and coils and it now needs a computer. the bill now is 1.600. i have 83,000 miles on the car. i've only had it for 7 months. this is caused by the wrong plugs in the car and they screw up the one computer.

I am currently having the same issue as well. I had to get a new PCM, 6 coils, and my muffler cleaned out because the catalytic converter started to crumble. Anyhow, what was the grand total once everything was said and done for you all?

I am going through the same thing as we speak. The car was originally diagnosed with code PO354 - a failing computer. Well, after blowing out TWO new ECMs ($700 gone, thank you very much) I received this new diagnosis and plan of action today - replace the plugs, the coils, and the CPU....again. Did your repair fix the problem?

Starter engages to slow to start and ground cable gets hot.

Right now the car is running ok. I still have trouble starting the car sometimes. My gas mileage is not what it should be. I don't know what to do next.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

The first thing I recommend checking is the connection of the battery terminals. Make sure they are clean and tight. As far as the ground, make sure it is tight on the battery and at the other end, tight and clean at the engine block.

Here is a link that shows how to clean terminals properly:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

If that does not resolve the issue, then we will need to remove the starter and have it bench tested by a parts store. It may have shorted out internally causing it to draw too much power.

Here are two links. The first describes the starter, how it works, and it's purpose. The second is a general description as to how one is removed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-starter-and-solenoid-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

Here are directions specific to your vehicle for starter replacement. The attached picture shows the starter and its components.

___________________________________


Removal and Installation

WARNING: When performing maintenance on the starting system, be aware that heavy gauge leads are connected directly to the battery. Make sure protective caps are in place when maintenance is completed.

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
2. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
3. Remove the starter motor solenoid terminal cover.
4. Remove the starter solenoid wire nut and position aside the wire.
- To install, tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).

5. Remove the starter solenoid battery cable nut and position aside the cable.
- To install, tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).

6. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer and position aside the wiring harness.
7. Remove the ground strap nut and position aside the strap.
- To install, tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).

8. Remove the 2 starter motor stud bolts.
- Install the upper and lower starter motor stud bolts finger-tight.
- Tighten the upper bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Tighten the lower bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).

9. Remove the starter motor bracket bolt and the starter motor.
- To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).

10. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

________________________________________________

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

After driving the second escape I knew something was wrong with the first one because the second escape drove more like my Mitsubishi nice and smooth. The bad thing about all this, Is that I fired one of my guys due to the fact that he had to gas up 3 times a week and I thought he was fueling up his car. (The first escape gets about 11 miles to the gallon). I took it to the mechanic he looked at it and said I don’t feel any difference and asked me to bring the other escape after he drop both cars he realize there is something wrong. He plugged his computer and ran a test and the test give him a reading of the 02 sensor responding slowly and this maybe causing the cars computer to put more fuel and may explain why i was getting 11 miles to the gallon. I changed the 02 sensor yesterday and will be testing it this week, so I will let you know if this improved the mileage on the car. Will bring what I just read here up to his attention and ask him to take a look and see if the 02 sensor doesnt improve anything.

If everyone here can post there cars manufacturing date so at lease we can see if it was a batch of them with the same problem.
Escape 1 March 2004 (the one giving me problems)
Escape 2 April 2005 (working like a charm)

I really don’t want to sell the car but I’m not willing to pay more then $2,000 to fix it. I would like to know if your cars have been fixed with what you guys have done to them.

Thank you

[quote:6d85ff0f2a="luvmenucar"]Computer problem
2005 Ford Escape 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 59,800 miles

My car will not start, only makes a clicking sound when I turn key. I am told that all 6 coils are dead and that my catalic converter is clogged, and I need new computer. Could this be due to neglecting to have a tune up ?[/quote:6d85ff0f2a]

wow i purchased a car with about the same amount of miles from a dealership... I have been told that i have the same problems... Does this mean ive purchased a lemon??

I'm having the exact same problem with my 2005 Escape. After spending 3400 dollars at a local mechanic to get the computer, coils, and one catalytic converter changed, I took my car to a Ford mechanic, and he said Ford has an 80,000 mile warranty on their exhaust systems (which would include my catalytic converters). He told me even though my catalytic converters went out before I hit 80,000 miles, since I am now at 83,000, they can't do anything for me. I spoke to a supervisor at the Customer Service Center named Kevin who said he'd file my complaint with the engineering department. If enough people talk to Ford about this problem, they will consider calling a recall.

I am SO DISAPPOINTED in my vehicle right now. I graduated from college last December, just got a job, thought I was getting a solid vehicle. Now I have 6500 dollars in bills for this issue even though my car is only worth 8500.

The thing that upsets me the most about this whole ordeal is that, even though the catalytic converter parts were defective before the warranty expired, it took my computer and ignition coils going out (which also shouldn't happen until the vehicle is ten years old) to find this, and they still won't stand behind their product! Ford has definitely lost a customer in this case.

I have replaced battery starter, relays and it still acts like bad battery. It turns real slow or clicks. Also, gauges vibrate when first turn key on. Could it be a fusible link? do not know if it has one. what else do I need to check? Alternator is six months old.

i also have a 2005 escape 3.0 with the same problem.
i replaced the computer , all the coil packs and spark plugs.
i still had a problem with my car, what i found with my car is that the back valve cover had resistance to ground.
i replaced the valve cover gasket kit and that clear the ground problem up.i able to drive my car again

When you are cranking he engine over can you use a voltage meter and see what the voltage is?

Here is a guide to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

A video of the problem would help as well.

Please run this test and get back to us so we can keep helping you.

Cheers, Ken

Good thread, it looks like this car had a common problem.

It starts at 12.54 when I turn key it drops go 5.7.

Yep that battery sounds like it is bad. Here is a guide to help you change it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

Please let us know what happens so it will help others.

Cheers, Ken

The car will experience a NO start condition. When the ignition key is turned the starter will not engage. However, after removing the baterry cables for a few seconds and re-installing them the car will start normally. It will then work for several starts, but then will repeat the same condition. The battery is new and the cables are clean. What could be causing this issue?

No crank at all/nothing/nada:

Could be the starter, starter relay, park and neutral switch and ignition switch assuming the battery and connections are good.

It will not start and the anti theft lock light is on. Tried
unhooking and rehooking battery, lock and unlock door, jumped the battery. What's up?

See below

Your PAT (Passive Anti Theft) system has put your car on lock down. The only way to get past this is to get it to the dealer. They have a special program that will unlock it for you. A lot of the time when you unhook the battery, especially in newer cars, they tend of freak out. Kind of like having to put in a radio code when you change a battery, only worse. Should be a quick fix though.

My vehical after a full day of driving wouldn't start last night. When I put the key into the ingnition and turn all the way forward the motor won't turn over. Sometimes the radio and interior lights will come on.

I would suspect the battery
check battery terminals and battery
try given it a jump start
check charging system after starting
good luck

Turn key all the way - all dash lights come on, car has power (radio, windows, etc.) - but car does not start. Does not crank, etc. Nothing. Tried both keys in case it was the key. Won't start. Played around with it for about 20 minutes, car suddenly starts when key is turned like nothing ever happened. Car runs fine for 3 weeks. One day - car will not start again. Mechanic plays around with it for 20 minutes, everything has power, car will not start. All of a sudden - car is fine.

when it wont start, check for power at starter solenoid ignition wire when key is held to start.

About 2 months ago the engine was stalling out on a roadtrip. Assumed it was the fuel pump. Replaced it. Over the weekend it happened again. Plugged it into my OBD2, and it said I had a bad fuel rail pressure sensor. I have one on order. Now tonight we were leaving my sister's, about 6 blocks away we were sitting at a very long light. Just as it turned green, the truck stalled and wouldn't start again. By not starting I mean, no crank. I pushed it into a parking lot, put cables on it, assuming my new battery died. Checked with a meter, had well over 14v while connect and even 12.9 after. Still nothing. Signs would point to a starter if I had shut it off, but the truck stalled and died. I didn't have a lot of time to spend with it before my sister showed up with tow straps and drove us home. I am a pretty avid mechanic. I've never seen anything like this. It's not even trying to put power to the starter, because the lights wont try and dim while turning the key. It is also making a weird buzzing sound in the radiator area with the ignition key in the on position. Noticed that when I was hooking the straps. Never heard that before, and I have been under the hood of this thing for years. Looked at the anti theft light also, it wasn't flashing with the key in the start position either. This is a new one to me, and can't find any threads or videos either.

Good morning,

When you tested the battery, was it without the battery cable or jumper cables on it?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Was the charging system voltage at 12.9 with the engine running?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

It sounds like a low voltage issue from a possible charging system issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-alternator

I attached a wiring diagram of the charging system for you. If you have a test light or voltmeter, we can do some testing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Roy

It isn't a voltage issue. 12.9 is as it sits. Again nothing dims as you try and crank. Something is telling the starter not to engage.

Okay, does the security light go out after about 10 seconds with the key on?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

I attached a wiring diagram for yo of the starting system. Do you have a test light or voltmeter to do some testing?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Even when we find the issue for not cranking, we still have to find out why it stalled.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Did you or do you have a second key for the car? I am wondering if you have a key issue.

Roy

I really didn't pay much attention to the security light. And yes, I tried both keys. I do have a volt meter. I haven't had a chance to try testing everything yet. I am going over after work this evening with all my tools and meters. Also see if anything scans on the OBD2.
However I feel the stall and no crank are related.
Also i had the PCM rebuilt a few months ago. By a reputable company, replaced all coils and plugs.

When I turn the key on the engine will not crank because the shift indicator square does not appear on the P for park. I have changed the shift indicator/position sensor and the ignition switch but still does not work.

see if you can get the shifter to go into either n or p as you probably screwed up replacing the neutral switch. then try resetting your security system to see if it will start. there is a special tool to align the neutral switch or range selector. you may have to have your trans cable adjusted or it was stretched to begin with.

Okay, let me know the results.

The common denominator is the ECM itself but testing needs to be done before going there.

Roy

Yes, that image is the PCM which I had rebuilt a couple months ago.