My heater is not working?

It may have obstructed the heater core, check both hoses for hot then pull hvac fuse inside car or under hood for 60 seconds with key on . it may be an actuator problem. This guide will help us see what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Please run down this guide and report back.

I recently had the coolant outlet flange(the housing on top of my engine that holds the tep guage for my coolant) snap in half. A part that was designed to fail if ever there was one. Since it snapped and I overheated a little i replaced the thermostat and then figured out my bottom radiator hose had a slow leak as well so i replaced it. the initial thermostat i bought wasn't opening so I had to replace it again. the coolant syatem is now back together and holding temp(although higher than before but I atribute this to the old guage being less accurate?) at highway speeds but I have absolutely no heat? Any thoughts why this might be so?

Is coolant bleed valve open during filling?

Have you bled the cooling system?

I did initally air lock thesystem I believe but have bled it repeatedly now. Should I completely drain the system and try again? I initially assumed I had air locked the system so have consiqueently bled it a couple times. Before the flange burst the system would regulate at 3\8 on the guage now it goes up to 3\4 and holds at 70 and then when I back down to 55 or below usually below 2000 rpm it modulates between a half and 3\4 on the guage.

The engine has antifreeze and the antifreeze reserve tank is full. Had some new hoses put in last year around the intake and radiator. There is no heat coming out, it just shoots out cold air when trying to defrost the windows. The A/C works fine... had work done last yr to the intake and radiator hoses, it kept overheating and the hoses got fried from the overheated water and antifreeze.

chek both hoses for being hot or equal temp when engine is warmed up then you'll hav eto see if your actuator in the hvac unit is working or not. they are either electric or vacuum. generic pic enclosed.

We have a 2004 Dodge Stratus SE with 45,000 miles on the 2.4L 4cyl. It runs great, except that after it's been running for 15-20 minutes the heater stops blowing luxuriously warm air and starts blowing bone-chilling cold air. It seems that the temp gauge tends to rise a little at this point, too. Not to the dreaded RED zone, but it drifts to the warmer end of the spectrum. We're tired of the engine hogging all that warmth and want it on our chilled hands! It seems to have enough antifreeze, could this be as simple as a new radiator cap? How about a new thermostat? I'll stop guessing because we're not car geniuses (obviously) so please use small words for us. :wink: Thank you!

If the engine is full of coolant and warmed up, the only thing that would make it go cold is if the blend door under the dash is slowly leaking vacuum down and going to cold position or if there is an air pocket in the cooling system that works its way to the heater core

2.7L eng. There is no heat coming from heater. Thermostat changed. Noticed temp gage does not move and it appears i have no coolant flowing through hoses. Bleed valve opened to release air after 10 mins of running still no flow, heat or temp on gage

Recheck the thermostat, Are you overheating?

Thermostat just installed yesterday. As far as overheating, no indication per the temp gage. Nor do I see any usual signs of overheating. I have only run the car for about 10 mins for fear of overheating.

If there's no coolant flow-the water pump could be defective or the radiator is clogged-up

Just had installed a thermostat (high difficulty). Car takes forever to warm-up, absolutely no heat inside either. Never seen anything like this. Thermostat was install by highly rated shop. ($200) It takes about 30 minutes to get heat inside!

How was it before the thermostat replacement?

It blew the upper radiator hose/coolant switch housing (plastic) they do this a lot from what I've dug up on the web. So that was repaired along with the new thermostat. Unless the water-pump is in the process of failing, (2.7 they are a mess, up in the engine, driven by timing chain). It started to make a rattling noise upon initial start-up and soon quiets down. I know the bearings in these don't last much longer than 70,000, this one just turned100,000. It set off a code twice; P0128 engine wasn't warming up fast enough. Freeze-frame data stated only 165 degrees @ 80 mph, and 3,000 rpm. Fuel trims looked good. This thing takes forever to warm-up. (30min or more, and no inside heater for at least 40min.) All the coolant levels are correct. I work on cars for a living and have never come across anything like this.

The water pump is working pretty good right now if it takes takes that long heat up. Sounds like defective thermostat I have had ones right out of the box even name brand ones like stants.That's the only thing I can think of because if the coolant wasn't circulating till the thermostat opened at the correct temp then thecoolant would warm up a lot quicker.Or there iisn't a thermostat in the engine at all.That's the only two things I can think of.

Yes, that was the only thing I could think of also. Due to the difficulty of replacing the stat' on this model, (its a real bear) I just wanted to throw this problem out there before I go back in to replace the stat' again. I agree with you that it doesn't seem to even have a stat' in it, or like you say, it's stuck wide open. Or the possibility of being installed incorrectly, or the wrong part even. It was done at a reputable shop. So, I guess it fell into my lap now. I always get the hard ones!
But I want to thank you very much for your time and thoughts on this matter as its nice to have someone to throw ideas around with. And you can be sure that I'll be throwing the next stat' in some boiling water before installing!
Thanks again!

So how did it go you find the problem?

Hello there!
I am having the same problems. I have found a couple of interesting things: First, there is a special procedure for bleeding down the cooling system, it says to consult the dealer for details in the manual out of glove box. I will add that it says it is imperative to do so. Just go to ask. com and put in special proceedure for coolant on a 2.7. I am hoping that is the problem for me.
I have just boiled the thermostat in water on the range with digital thermometer, they both checked good (new and old). This is very strange. I have also noticed the temp gauge in the car is not reaching HOT, a matter of fact the thing is setting about half way. My thoughts were that the system is not bleed correctly and there is a air pocket somewhere keeping it from circulating through the upper housing where the temp sensor is,( not even letting the fans kick on) if this is so, I am hopping that I never over heated enough to cause damage to say the oil pump, heads, gaskets, etc. Well, I am awaiting a part, (timing chain tensioner) from ebvay. Then I will know more. These are just my thoughts and findings to this point.
I would recommend being very leery of running and thinking the inside temp says fine and well, check your lower radiator hose. Mine is cold, that is not good. This lead me to pulling the water pump(NIGHTMARE:(((( Turned out the water pump was fine, but the seal was a little rough and the tensioner had a little build up on it. Please keep this going and let me know what you all find. Thanks in advance! I will do the same.

A couple of other things I wanted to mention. The heat worked great one night and most of the time I had very little heat. I was noticing my reservoir was bubbling over when I shut the car off. I bought the car like this. So, I am not sure of the preliminary symptoms. I know this is tricky and we must find out or it spells disaster for our engines. This is a poor design ( in my opinion) and they say there is a sludge problem, that is pron to destroying these 2.7liter engines with small oil passages. (sludge=oil + coolant)Well, the seal looked newer on my water pump and although newer, it looked like it was coming apart and seeping from the extensive heat\pressure from the steam pockets trapped. I have done lots of research on the subject and there is not a answer to our problem yet. The closest thing you will find to that is, my theory above this comment. I hope this simple fix is the cure for all of our problems. I am not saying this could not be your thermostat, the symptoms are kinda the same. By the way, the thermostat really gave me some trouble. Had to remove the alternator and a\c compressor to get the thermo housing off, and it was still tight. I am just saying to the guys that haven't pulled the thermostat yet, I would think twice. Try the correct bleeding procedure first.

Yes, now the one that I was working on has started to get hot and boil over, and that just happened over-night. From one extreme to another. These cars are such a pain! I thank you for writing me back with your thoughts and ideas. Yeah, I went through the bleeding procedure a couple of times, but now the top radiator hose is not getting hot at all, while the surge-tank is boiling over. I was getting ready to go into the water-pump (dreaded) and then got ill. So it may go to a shop. If so, I'll still keep you informed as to the out-come of this situation. The design/engineers at Chrysler sure didn't do the consumer any favors when they developed this nightmare. I thought that the water-pumps in Honda Accords were the worst, but now, I have changed my mind. What where they thinking? Oh... I know....$$$$$

2004 dodge stratus,62,000 miles no heat and overheating warning light comes on. Never actually overheats. Changed the thermostat, not the problem. Any suggestions?

I would check the line into the heater core. Could be plugged or the valve could be disconnected. The thermostat sensor could also be failing.

i have a 2004 dodge stratus very high mileage and when it idles as i say i will warm it up it sit stays cold till it moves ...the sometime it blows cold air.....is there a sensor for that needs replaced i know it's not the thermostat.

Hello,

It sounds like the coolant level is low? Here is a video on how to check it and a guide to help go through the easier problems:

https://youtu.be/GSE9skKnOgY

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Please run down these guides and report back.

Cheers, Ken

2003 Dodge Stratus Sedan 65,216 miles

I took my car to a repair shop to get the coolant flushed and the thermstat changed...now the car has no heat. I called the place to let them know the car doesn't have any heat they told me to bring it back. When I drove the car back to the repair shop, the car over heated and we had the car towed in. The manager tould me that there was air in the system. Isn't that there problem to fix and how can you get an air pocket out the coolant system?

Make: Dodge Durango
Year: 2000
Problem: Have a small amount of heat coming out of the vents when I have it on the upper vents or floor vents only. When I put the control on defrost and defrost and floor the temperture in the vents only gets to 50 degrees. The engine temperture on the gage is normal around 200 degrees and the engine does not over heat. The inlet hose to the heater is hot but the outlet hose is luke warm. This problem happened when I had the water pump changed. I had the thermostat changed and it did not correct the problem.

#1 question: There are high spots in the cooling system that retain air unless they are bleed out. This should have been done by them. BUT, this would not cause your problem, it could cause other problems that are not serious. The might have installed the thermostat backwards, the thermostat could be defective, they could have spaced the job and not added enough coolant, etc. Either way no matter what they are responsible for the problem. Now I caution you to ask the question that besides getting it right will they stand behind the possible head problems due to hot engine that could cause head warpage or a head gasket to fail!

#2 question: I would look at the heater controls. It appears that the heat system is not functioning properly.