Transmission not shifting out of first gear

I am in the process of soaking the clutches and then replacing them. Will I have to remove all the clutch springs to replace all the clutches? Will I need to have the spring compressor tool in order to replace the clutches? Probably a dumb question but I cannot readily tell looking at the service manual. Are there O-rings within the spring assembly that would need to be replaced?

Hi Kenny, I am working my way to getting this car all assembled now. I have installed the transmission using ratcheting straps and floor jacks. It took me several hours to get it aligned. Photo attached (note that I did add the torque converter after this picture was taken)

I have been searching for the correct connections for the transmission cooler line. I can't see to find a diagram for this. Does the line from the top of the radiator connect to the top port of the transmission? Do you have a diagram? Thanks!

Could you please send me the attachment to the subframe to the body figure? I am not sure how the washers are placed. Thanks!

I have the car reassembled and I am charging the battery now. I plan to try it out tomorrow. I have two nuts left over (in the figure) and cannot find where they go. I rechecked the brake area and it doesn't seem to be missing any nuts. The subframe underneath seems to have everything also. Do you have an idea where I should check?

An additional note, these nuts fit the large bolts located on the subframe and those that support the wheel hub. I rechecked all the bolts I see in these areas, and they are secure.

Hi Kenney, I drove the car around my neighborhood. I could tell it was shifting out of first gear to a higher gear, but it was not consistent when it shifted. It did not seem to be able to go to higher gears as I went faster. Can you offer me a troubleshooting step? I did recheck the AT fluid level and it was within the marks when the engine was idling hot.
I still can't figure out where the large nuts belong.

I ran some diagnostic tests this morning before work. I have attached my pressure readings. Looks like the full-throttle readings are down across the board by 40-50psi in the drive gears.
The check engine light was not on, but I ran a scan anyway and got codes B1208, U1900 and P1000 but I think I was getting these codes before the rebuild.

The full-throttle pressures being down by 40 to 50 PSI to the lowest end of the expected range should be, okay?
The current status of the transmission is pretty bad. I have no confidence to drive it outside my neighborhood. It does go into second gear now, but I cannot confirm it happens at a consistent rpm. To get it in higher gear I speed up to about 3,000 RPMs then take my foot off the gas and that seems to kick it into a higher gear. I drive up to 40 MPH in my neighborhood. Also, the transitions to higher gears are not smooth. I can feel a slight buck and there is shuddering.
Would a P1000 result in this? I did change the thermostat to one I got a Rockauto when I replaced all the hoses.

I have been driving the car around, but I reached a point where I will no longer do so. I thought perhaps it needed to do a recalibration but things are not improving. The automatic shifting is not reliable. When I did the repair, I probably did not fix all the problems. Something in the valve body or pump, perhaps? I only changed the gaskets and rings. It can shift to all gears smoothly, but only when I reach 3,000 RPMs and back off the gas.
I am still concerned the pressures are not high enough and this may be the problem.
Only the P1000 remains now. I have been watching the engine temperature and cannot see anything that looks odd. According to my scanner, the temperature is pretty constant at 187F when warm.

Oopsie. It turns out all the problems were because of a blocked catalytic converter. The bull works great now after a replacement cat.