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No windows, locks, radio, gauges, chimes, dome lights and starts then shuts off

Tiny
CROACHZ28
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • 152,000 MILES
I just purchased this vehicle and the power windows, power locks, dome lights, gauges except speedometer and tachometer, after market radio, chimes do not work. The vehicle also shuts off immediately after you try to start it. There is no security light on the dash. The ABS, airbag lights are on and there is no indicator for which gear the vehicle is in. The tan wire from the ignition switch is not hooked up. It goes to the switch that activates chimes when key is inserted. Where does it go? Also, a new ignition switch, key cylinder and the lock assembly has been installed. I have tried to check the grounds, cleaned, checked and applied dialectic grease on connections as well. One time when I had pushed on the horn it repaired itself then the door chime would not shut off. Then it went back to not working quickly. Please help.
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Wednesday, February 13th, 2019 AT 5:41 AM

24 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

I attached a picture of the connector for the ignition switch connector. It lists the wire colors and positions for the wires.

Verify them as the yellow wire feeds the fuse box for systems to run.

Sounds like you bought a basket case of electrical issues.

Roy
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Wednesday, February 13th, 2019 AT 6:34 AM
Tiny
CROACHZ28
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
I confirmed the ignition switch plug wiring and everything checks out okay. The engine and battery light is on the instrument cluster as well.
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Wednesday, February 13th, 2019 AT 6:53 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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Do you have a scan tool to see if there are any codes set?

Roy
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Wednesday, February 13th, 2019 AT 6:57 AM
Tiny
CROACHZ28
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
I sure don't. But I did use one and it had a communication error so I checked pin 16 and have power to it. I also have an Evolution CTS 2 programmer and it never will initialize. It keeps asking for the key to be turned to the on position.
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Wednesday, February 13th, 2019 AT 7:03 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Got it.

My gut tells me this may be an ignition switch issue where on the wires is not powering up the accessories as well as the modules.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Roy
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Wednesday, February 13th, 2019 AT 7:06 AM
Tiny
CROACHZ28
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
I'm still dead in the water.
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Thursday, February 14th, 2019 AT 11:47 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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Did you check the switch?

Roy
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Friday, February 15th, 2019 AT 2:25 AM
Tiny
CROACHZ28
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Yes.
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Friday, February 15th, 2019 AT 2:54 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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How did you check it? What voltage did you have and where?

Roy
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Friday, February 15th, 2019 AT 3:01 AM
Tiny
CROACHZ28
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Roy, I did it with a test light to ground. And as I advanced the key. The correct wires according to your schematic/legend became energized. I can check actual voltage, am I looking for 12vdc on each wire as it energizes?
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Friday, February 15th, 2019 AT 3:09 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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That is correct. Make sure you have battery voltage and it stays constant.

Beyond that, the BCM needs to be checked and that will require an advanced scan tool.

Roy
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Friday, February 15th, 2019 AT 3:11 AM
Tiny
CROACHZ28
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Roy, A couple weeks ago I was sitting in the driveway and hit the horn pad with hand and everything started working. It was short lived, but none the less, It worked. I didn't know if that could help you with troubleshooting.
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Friday, February 15th, 2019 AT 3:42 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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It may indicate a bad connection somewhere that is causing this issue. You would need to move wires around and see if you can get a reaction from the movement to see if you can narrow the area where the connection is located.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Roy
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Friday, February 15th, 2019 AT 3:46 AM
Tiny
CROACHZ28
  • MEMBER
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Roy, the four positions of the ignition and the voltages at that location. POSITION 1 is the neutral position and 4 is as your tryng to start the vehicle.
Brown - 0v, 13.5v, 13v, 0v
Red/white - 12.6v, 12.6v, 12.3v, 10.9v
Pink - 0v, 0v, 12.2v, 10.5v
Yellow - 0v, 0v, 0v, 11.0v
White - 0v, 0v, 0v, 11.0v
Orange - 0v, 0v, 12.2v, 0v
Red - 12.2v, 12.2v, 12.2v, 10.2
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Friday, February 15th, 2019 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
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On the ignition assy there is a green and brown wire that goes into a switch. Can you tell me where the brown terminates?
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Friday, February 15th, 2019 AT 7:04 PM
Tiny
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Diagram attached. The wire feeds the fuse block for accessories.

Roy
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Saturday, February 16th, 2019 AT 3:18 AM
Tiny
CROACHZ28
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
This is the brown or tan wire that's paired up with a green wire that goes to a little switch that makes when the key is inserted into the ignition.
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Saturday, February 16th, 2019 AT 3:24 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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I attached the other diagram for the switch. They all feed a fuse block to power components.

Roy
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Saturday, February 16th, 2019 AT 3:27 AM
Tiny
CROACHZ28
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Roy, It's not the actual ignition switch, it's one of the two plugs that are on the actual ignition lock assembly. The other plug is for the pass code security. The one in dealing with has a green and tan in the plug, that's it. The tan wire travels half way down the steering column and just stops. I also borrowed a scanner but it said it was waiting to connect with vehicle and never did.
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 6:07 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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Okay, the security is not the issue.

The other plug is the issue. The switch internally is the issue. GM has had huge issues with the switch failing.

I would call a GM dealer and give them your VIn and see if yours is in the recall.

Roy
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 6:15 AM

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