Too much fuel consumption

Tiny
BAHAA
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 NISSAN X-TRAIL
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
It consumes too much fuel that reaches to twenty four liters per 100%.
I guess the maximum fuel capacity is seventy five liters, and this full capacity (seventy five liters) makes from 300 to maximum 320 KM.
I does not run on high speed neither highway. I only use the car to go to my work which takes five to seven minutes. The distance is about 4.5 KM from my home. There is only one traffic or two that when I stop at they make the five minutes to be seven to reach work.
I changed the spark plugs, cleaned the so called "burning room", changed the air filter, and something called the "smoke sensor", even the engine oil and the oil filter, nothing changes.
the consumption is still very high and when I drive on highways, the consumption is 17litres/100 km.
Any idea? Is it something related to "fuel injectors" or sprayers?
Here technicians are not clever enough to fix the problem, they attach an electric device inside the car, and keep diagnosing it, then they tell me that the car engine is perfect.
Please help. Thanks in advance.
Thursday, February 1st, 2018 AT 12:10 AM

8 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
All engines use a lot more gas than normal when the engine is cold. You are driving much too short a distance so you are only running the engine while it is in that high-consumption state. The oxygen sensors do not even start to work until they reach 600 degrees Fahrenheit. Their readings tell the engine computer what fine tuning adjustments to make for lowest emissions and best fuel mileage. You are stuck in the mode that does not look at the oxygen sensor readings yet. In that mode, the fuel metering has to be too high to insure good engine performance and no sputtering or hesitations.

Be aware too that the pistons are not perfectly round. They are oval-shaped, then they expand unevenly so they become round and fit perfectly when the engine is hot. There will be excessive blowby of exhaust gas that gets into the oil and forms sludge. That makes the oil thicker and harder to pump and circulate. That further reduces fuel mileage.

You need to get the car onto the highway for a good high speed run of 50 to 75 km. That is the time to calculate the actual fuel mileage.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, February 1st, 2018 AT 12:56 AM
Tiny
BAHAA
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Thank you so much CARADIODOC for your details, but me being not expert in mechanics neither cars in general. I do not know anything of what you have said.
My car does not use gas neither diesel, it uses the normal fuel (premium or regular).

But related to the short distance, after I turn the car in the morning I wait about three minutes until the temperature gauge starts to move to the first lower line (dash/indicate), then I start moving on a very low speed.

About when technicians diagnosed the car with their small electric-device, the car has been already taken long distance to reach to them, so I guess that the oxygen sensor has already been working.

Some non-technician people told me that maybe I have thermostats problems. (I m clueless what and where are these things).
Some other non-technician people tell me that the problem is in the fuel injectors.
When I tell that to the technicians, they have no idea what I am talking about!

On the other side, when I tried the highway, and ran in a high speed, the car consumes 17 Liters per 100 km.
Please explain to me in a simple way, as I have no idea about cars. English is not my native language.
Thanks in advance CARADIODOC.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, February 1st, 2018 AT 1:13 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
I am only familiar with miles per gallon, so I have to take you at your word that you are using to much fuel. "Regular" and "premium" are different grades of gasoline.

If you have a long drive to get to the repair shop, the engine will be hot, so it is understandable everything seems to be okay then. If there is an engine or sensor problem that is causing too much fuel to be used, the engine computer will detect that. It will set a diagnostic fault code in memory, and turn on the check engine light on the dash to tell you.

Based on the age of the vehicle, you might consider a sticking brake. To identify that, stop on a slight incline, shift to "neutral", release the brakes, then see if the vehicle creeps down hill on its own. Another way is to try to push the vehicle by hand on a flat surface. Sticking brakes are fairly common and will cause a big increase in fuel usage.

Be sure the tire pressures are okay. The stickers on some cars call for a tire pressure that is too low. That is done for smooth ride quality, but you'll use less fuel if you increase the tire pressure a little. Look for the tiny numbers on the sidewalls of the tires to see what the maximum pressure is, and do not go over that when the tires are cold.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, February 1st, 2018 AT 2:14 AM
Tiny
BAHAA
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Thanks you so much again CARADIODOC for your caring and answer.

As for gallon to liters and millage to km, my car uses 6.5 gallons per 62 miles.

Well, about the brakes, a friend told me the same, and I tried everything you just said, the car runs smooth on neutral not only on downhill but also on flat surface, as well as when I push the car by hand on a flat surface, it is not catchy.
As for the tires, on both cases, when the tires are on its maximum pressure, the consumption is the same as when it is on the recommended, and when I take the long drive to the technician, the engine is already hot and they do not see any error (according to their knowledge which is obviously not enough in my case to find out the cause of the much consumption), on the contrary they praise in the engine! And when I wonder to them why then this much consumption, they try to persuade me that it is normal for such type of cars! This makes me hit my head to the wall, because they fail to find out the reason and cover their failure with fake assumption!

Any extra idea what might be the reason?

Again thanks CARADIODOC for your favors and efforts in advance.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, February 1st, 2018 AT 4:06 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
CARADIODOC is one of our best!

Use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.

Cheers, Ken
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, February 3rd, 2018 AT 10:49 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
The next thing would be to look at the switching rate of the front oxygen sensor during a test-drive. It should switch between "rich" and "lean" about two times per second. If it is doing that, the engine is burning the correct air/fuel mixture, then you only have drag to worry about, meaning a sticking brake, a binding universal joint on the drive shaft, (when used), low tire pressure, dragging a trailer, wind resistance of a roof-top luggage carrier, and things like that.

If the oxygen sensor is showing a constantly-rich mixture, the engine computer is requesting too much fuel, usually due to an incorrect sensor reading. If your engine does not use a mass air flow sensor, the main fuel metering calculation will be from the MAP sensor readings. That just measures intake manifold vacuum to determine load on the engine. There is a specific range of signal voltage that acceptable, but if that voltage is wrong, but still within that range, the computer will use that wrong reading to calculate fuel needs. A defective sensor can cause that, but it is more common to find a vacuum leak. The extra air sneaking in does not contribute to power, but the resulting lower vacuum seen by the MAP sensor tells it you are accelerating or the engine is under load, and therefore it needs more fuel. Even though the computer requests more fuel, intake manifold vacuum remains low, and the computer keeps on adding more and more fuel.

There are two other things you can look at with a scanner, but you need a mechanic who is familiar with your vehicle to interpret the results. The first is to look at length of the "pulse width" the computer is holding the injectors open for. Suppose you know that 35 milliseconds is normal, but you see that on your engine, it is at 45 milliseconds. That tells you fuel has more time to spray into the engine each time the injector fires. Now you can pinch off various vacuum hoses and do other things while watching to see if the number of milliseconds drops.

The next thing to look at is the "fuel trim" numbers. These are shown in different ways depending on the car and the scanner. The most basic way is to show a single reading for "short-term fuel trim", (STFT), and one number for "long-term fuel trim", (LTFT). All engine computers come from the factory programmed to command a specific amount of fuel each time the injector fires. As soon as you start driving, the computer looks at the readings from the oxygen sensor in the exhaust, along with the readings from other sensors, to determine if it needs to add or subtract a little fuel from the pre-programmed amount. Those small fine-tuning adjustments are what is happening right now, and are called the "short-term fuel trims". If everything is working properly, those numbers will be bouncing around close to "0.0". If you see a high positive number, that means the computer is requesting more fuel, but it is up to you to figure out why. That would typically occur during periods of acceleration. If you see the STFT is high negative, it means the computer sees too much fuel going into the engine, and it is trying to cut back, possibly without success. One potential cause of that is fuel pressure that is too high. Fuel pressure on most cars is not monitored. It is preset, and calculations are made while assuming that variable is correct. For engines with the fuel pressure regulator on the engine, a kinked or restricted fuel return line to the tank can cause fuel pressure to be too high. That excessive fuel pressure makes too much fuel spray into the engine. The computer can try to offset that by opening the injectors for a shorter period of time, but there is a limit to how much control it has.

When the computer sees that it is constantly making the same fuel metering corrections over a longer period of time, it moves that correction to the "long-term fuel trims". That means instead of seeing the need to deviate from the pre-programmed values all the time, it changes the pre-programmed values. With the new starting point, less short-term correction is needed each time you drive the car. By looking at how much change the computer has been asking for, you can verify the engine is using more or less fuel than expected. Remember though this has to do with how well the engine is running, and whether the sensors are reporting correct values. Hard acceleration, dragging brakes, pulling a trailer, etc. All require more fuel and air at the same time. The fuel trim numbers only pertain to the percentage of fuel in that mixture, and ideally you will find all the fuel trim numbers to be close to "0.0".

Do not overlook a restricted air filter. You will have to push the accelerator pedal further to get up to speed, and opening the throttle blade reduces intake manifold vacuum. The MAP sensor sees the lower vacuum and tells the computer the engine is under load and needs more fuel.

One more clue to look for is black smoke from tail pipe. That is a sign of burning a fuel/air mixture that is too rich. That is not caused by dragging brakes, trailers, wind, and things like that. This is where fuel pressure and incorrect sensor readings become suspect.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, February 3rd, 2018 AT 2:54 PM
Tiny
BAHAA
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Hello CARADIODOC.
You are a professional car engineer it sees to me so.
Well, here we have very bad technicians, they do not spend more than one minute using the electric-device inside the car while the car is parked. Keep pressing the pedal to make the load gauge reach 7 from 8.
Then after that minute they unplug their device and tell me that the car is perfect. They do not explain anything and I guess that they do not spend enough time/chance to see these programmed values, STFT neither the LTFT values. Ery lazy people, especially with a foreigner like me, not citizen in their country (bla bla bla, long story of racism).

I think the best solution in my case is to give up this car, since there is no practical solution that can be applied in my situation (because of those people, not your solutions).

If I am for example in Egypt, people there are so smart, technicians are so brilliants, even from the voice of the engine they tell you everything in the car, but here in the current country I live in there is noway such ' ' dream ' ' cannot be fulfilled, especially people here are drinking and sleeping nothing else they do!

Once again I thank you so much CARADIODOC for all your time, details and efforts. :)
may our savior Jesus Christ bless you. :)
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, February 4th, 2018 AT 12:33 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
Thank you. Sounds like a good place to become a trained automotive specialist and open a shop. Here in the U.S, we still have the disreputable shops that give the entire industry a bad name, but we have a real lot of shops with good people who have their customers' best interest at heart, and do not get the recognition they deserve.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, February 4th, 2018 AT 5:54 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links