Problem when attempting to accelerate feels like the engine has no power

Recommend you check the fuel pressure and then check these sensors: MAF, this guide will help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down this guide and report back.

Hi,

This sounds like an issue with low fuel pressure. It can be the result of a faulty pump or a partially plugged filter. The first thing I would suggest is to check pressure. Here is a link that explains how it is done. You will need a fuel pressure gauge to test, but most parts stores will lend one to you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The attached pics correlate with the directions. The pics are diagnostic flow charts for issues that are found.

___________________________________

If you look at the attached pic, it shows the manufacturer's specs related to fuel pressure requirements. I highlighted your vehicle.

__________________________________

If you find the pressure is low, I would start by replacing the fuel filter which is mounted on the passenger side inner fender under the hood. Here are directions for lines and fuel filter replacement. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

_________________________________
2004 Lincoln LS V6-3.0L DOHC VIN S
Procedures
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Filter Service and Repair Procedures
PROCEDURES
FUEL LINES AND FUEL FILTER

Disconnect Tool, Spring Lock Coupling

pic 1

SPECIAL TOOL(S)

WARNING:
- Do not smoke or carry lighted tobacco or open flame of any type when working on or near any fuel-related component. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited, resulting in possible personal injury.
- Fuel in the fuel system remains under high pressure even when the engine is not running. Before repairing or disconnecting any of the fuel system components, the fuel system pressure must be relieved to prevent accidental spraying of fuel, causing personal injury or a fire hazard.

REMOVAL
1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
2. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
3. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
4. Remove the left front wheel well rear splash shield.

pic 2

5. To remove individual components, only carry out the listed steps.

pic 3

6. Illustration 1 of 4. Remove the components in the order indicated in the illustration and table.

pic 4

7. Illustration 2 of 4. Remove the components in the order indicated in the illustration and table.

pic 5

8. Illustration 3 of 4. Remove the components in the order indicated in the illustration and table.

pic 6

9. Illustration 4 of 4. Remove the components in the order indicated in the illustration and table.

Item 2: Spring Lock Coupling Removal Note

pic 7

1. Install the special tool.

pic 8

2. Press the special tool into the open end of the cage.

pic 9

3. Separate the spring lock coupling.

INSTALLATION
1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

_______________________________________________________

If pressure isn't restored after filter replacement, then you need to suspect the pump is bad.

Here are a couple links you may fine helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-fuel-pump-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

______________________________________________________

I hope something here is helpful. Let me know if you have other questions or need help.

Take care,
Joe

Lack of acceleration, chugging, hesitating, bogging, misfiring etc. Could be caused by one of the following below:

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Knock sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard it.

The first three codes can be a bunchof things, like egr stuck open, cam sensor wheel ijectors etc. 402 is exaust gas system problem. This may be causing your other problems. The last one is either a vacuum leak, injector problem. This should really be checked by a pro because some of these codes may fix others.

Is that the only code you have? It is a EVAP code for the purge control valve circuit. That shouldn't cause any of the conditions you mentioned. It could cause a rough idle or a lean condition for the engine, but that should also set other codes.

Is the battery fully charged? Have you tried disconnecting the battery and then reconnecting it to see if it resets the computer?

Is the check engine light on? see if the the engine will rev in neutral, you could have a cat converter that is plugged, this sometimes happens after the engine have been overheated.

A compression test could tell us if the engine was too badly overheated which should be performed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

We are interested to know what happens please.

Check all the fusible links and test the headlight switch

Test for voltage at head light bulb as well as the fuseable links by the starter. If the links are good. Check the voltage at the dimmer switch harness and it transfers voltage properly. If not you going to have to replace the turn signal switch.

Charge the battery and then load test it-not over 9.6 volts replace it

You need to check the voltage at the headlight switch. Start there.