My Engine cranks over but will not start?

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

If you have proper fuel pressure, spark, and the injectors are working, it does not have a choice but to run. However, since it will not even start with starting fluid indicates a few possibilities. One of the following has to be wrong: weak spark, engine timing, or low engine compression. Does the engine sound normal when it is cranking or does it seem off?

Here is a link that discusses different reasons why engines will not start and ways to check. Some of the items listed will not help because you already did a lot of the work. Regardless, check through it and see if anything helps.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Also, let me know how it sounds when cranking. If you have other questions or need additional information, let me know.

Take care,
Joe

My car turns over but will not start. it's a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L v6. I have replace spark plugs and put a new fuel pump in it and it still will not run. I cannot figure it out for nothing. I need help to fix it.

Welcome back:

If you have spark and tried starting fluid with no results, then either it is a timing issue or low compression. Or, you have a very weak spark. It should be a hot blue snapping spark. Did it even fire a couple times with starting fluid? Also, can you let me know how this issue came to be? Did it happen all at once? If you remove spark plugs, are they wet?

Let me know. Also, it's hard to tell, but it almost sounds like it is cranking really fast. If you brought this to me and it had spark and fuel, the first thing I would check is compression. It almost sounds like timing is an issue and a compression test would indicate that.

Here is a link that shows in general how it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle with the manufacturer's specs. The attached pictures correlate with these directions.

CHECKING COMPRESSION PRESSURE
1. Before checking the engine compression, check the engine oil level. Also check that the starter motor and battery are all in normal operating condition.
2. Start the engine and wait until the engine coolant temperature reaches 80 - 95°C (176 - 205°F).
3. Stop the engine and disconnect the spark plug cables.
4. Remove the spark plugs.
5. Crank the engine to remove any foreign material in the cylinders.
6. Insert the compression gauge into the spark plug hole.
7. Depress the accelerator pedal to open the throttle fully.


See Picture 1



8. Crank the engine and read the gauge.

Standard value .................... 1,200 kPa (170 psi)
Limit .................... 1,050 kPa (149 psi)

9. Repeat steps 6 to 8 for all cylinders, making sure that the pressure difference for each of the cylinders is within the specified limit.

Limit .................... Max. 100 kPa (14 psi) between cylinders

10. If a cylinder's compression or pressure differential is outside the specification, add a small amount of oil through the spark plug hole, and repeat steps 6 to 9.
1) If the addition of oil causes the compression to rise, it is possible that the piston ring is worn.
2) If the compression remains the same, valve seizure, poor valve seating or a compression leak in the cylinder head gasket are all possible causes.

Tightening torque
Spark plug .................... 20 - 30 Nm (14 - 22 ft. lbs.)

__________________________________

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions. Remember, if you have fuel and spark, either timing or low compression are suspects.

Take care,
Joe

If it sets for a while, 18-20 hours, it will not start. Everything works, all light alternator, everything it just wont turn over. I have to turn the key off and wait 20 seconds and try again. It never takes more then three try's to get it started.

Lets run the codes first it sounds like the engine coolant temperature sensor is shorting out but to be sure lets run down this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down these guides and report back.

I found out my computer was bad got a rebuilt unit all fixed! Cost me $187.00

car quit running. won't start back will crank. but no spark or fuel.

Let's start with checking for codes. Then let me know how we found no spark or fuel.

With just this info, the most likely cause is the crank sensor. Here is a guide that will run through this. Let me know the testing you have done so far and if you have a signal coming from the CKP sensor.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Brought to me with crank no start. Found the ignition condenser power lead grounded to block.(as in condenser cut off and stake on installed to end of wire). Replaced condenser, but still no fire. Thinking it may have blown the ignition control modual.

Hello,

Lets start by running the codes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

Will get scanner and run

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

Bought code reader ran it only code that I got was for fuel temp

That will do it. here is the sensor location so you can get it replaced to see what happens. As long as you are there turn the ignition key tot he on position to see if you hear the pump working for about 5 seconds.

It under the back seat under the tap door

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Would the fuel temp sencer give me a crank no start

Fuel pump is running

Yes it will if it is shorted out. Try unplugging it to see if it runs.

Decided to go ahead and replace ICM fixed the crank no start. After it ran cleared codes doing good thanks

This started as a starter replacement the camshaft sensor plug and ignition coil condenser were HEAT baked and the condenser lead was grounded. I traced the condenser lead back and it joins with the ignition control module on the power side. It must have burned out the ICM when the condenser lead was grounded
I replaced the ICM. Ignition coil condenser and camshaft position wire plug fixed the crank no start problem

Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers, Ken

I have a 2004 huyndai Santa Fe. The belt tensioner broke on the timing bet. I Found another motor to replace the one i had. All was well then it started stalling, misfiring and dying. I had a mechanic read the codes. Each time it would give me segment timing incorrect which the suggestion was to replace the Crank Position Sensor. I replaced it. Now the car will not start. It will turn over but will not start. I took the new sensor out twice and replaced with another new one. It still wont start. What would be the issue? Do i need to clear the codes or am i haveing a run of bad parts?

What are the exact code numbers you have now?

It is a P1372 Segment Timing incorect

So if you clear that code is that the code that comes right back?

Yes

Are you able to restart with the original sensor?
Did you check the pickup point of the sensor for damage?

That's a good one khlow the crank could have struck the sensor.

The old sensor was damaged and burned and will not work. The one i replaced it with that would act up after it got warm was returned the parts house. We have checked the contact point on the block to see if there is any obstruction. I have someone coming over today to ome out the wiring harnes to see if there is a broke wire and a voltage probe to make sure were getting the right voltage.

Thanks for all your help.

Alright keep us posted on wat you find.

I have the vehicle listed bone. just bought a brand new battery and it turned over once I cut it off started it again and it sputtered and shut off 3 times then went back to not starting at all. what can the problem be?

I was mistaken on the code. It was a P0335. It read Crankshaft Possition Sensor. We ran a voltage test and omed it. We are getting fire to the sensor. We are finding we are not getting fire to the coil pack. Would this sensor supply fire to the plugs?

Hi,

It can be a few different things. However, what you need to do first is determine if there is spark and fuel to the engine. Chances are one will be missing. Once determined, then we will know what system to focus on. If you have a scanner, that would really be helpful. If possible scan for diagnostic trouble codes and let me know what they are.

Now, here is an easy test. See if the engine starts for a couple seconds using starting fluid. If it does, then we know if it a fuel related issue. If it doesn't chances are it is ignition related. If you would rather, here are two links that explain how to check for both spark and fuel:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Check those two things or try the starting fluid and let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe

It supplies a signal to the coil to fire.The crank sensor should be about 825 ohms.Across one connector terminal of the crank sensor and chassis ground key on engine off you should see 1.4 volts.Then do the same on the other connector terminal and you should see the same.

Thank you. I'm going to try the starting fluid when I get off work. but the thing I don't understand is if I jump it off it will start right up but when I cut it off and try to start it back nothing. but thanks for your help. I'll try the starting fluid this afternoon and go from there.

Ok, i went back to the same auto parts store and had this one exchanged for warranty. This is the 4th time. I put it on the car and no luck. The car still wouldnt start. I went to another parts house and got a name brand one staying away from house brands. Put the new one on the car and she fired right up. I drove my car to the parts house were i have went through 4 defective parts and told them i wanted to return and no more replacements. They had to ask me if i knew what i was doing and i told them there is the car in the parking lot with a competitors part and it is running. They gave me my money back. I want to thank you for all your help.

James

Okay, so when I got off of work I took the new battery back out of the truck and put the old one back in and it started right up. I also bought a code reader and no codes are popping up. this has really got me confused.

Your welcome that's what were here for you could have just checked all those sensors with a ohms meter like I told you could with a ohms meter.That would would have told you that you were getting bad parts all along.

Hi,

Actually, this most likely will make things easier. First, have the new battery load tested where you got it. If it checks good, then we most likely have a connection issue. Make sure terminals are clean and tight and inspect all wiring around the battery for evidence of damage, corrosion, or anything that can create a poor connection.

Has there been any issues since the old battery was installed?

Joe

No not at all. since I put the old battery back in its started about 15 times now with no hesitation and it's really cold here this morning and it still started right up.

That's good news. I suspect it was a bad connection. Chances are if it has been good that many times, it should be fine.

If something changes, let me know.

Take care and have a nice holiday.

Joe