Window doesnt work. Is it the switch or the module?

The system must be losing power somewhere. I would use a test light to see what is not working I have a suspicion it is the door multiplex controller.

Here is a guide and some wiring diagrams (below) to help us get started.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Here is how to check the switch as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/electric-window-repair

Please let us know what happens so it will help others.

Cheers,

At this point I would recommend measuring the voltages on the switch and on the motor. Every wire on the switch should have 12 volts at some point, (except the ground wire), when the switch is pressed one way or the other. If one wire doesn't, I'd suspect that first and take it apart to see if there was a burned contact I could clean with sandpaper.

The next thing is to measure the voltages on both motor wires when you press the switch. In one direction, one wire must have 12 volts and the other one must have 0 volts. If you find less than 12 volts on just one wire, that suggests a poor switch or relay contact. If you find more than 0 volts on the second wire, that suggests a high resistance in the ground circuit. If you find 12 volts on both wires, that means there's an open ground circuit. What I don't know yet is whether that ground circuit goes through half of the switch or through the module. It does sounds like the module is bad

I would love to get my hands on that module and try to pop it open to peek inside. If you're hearing clicking in it, that is likely a relay being turned on, and relays in that type of circuit are notorious for developing burned contacts. Usually, since they don't remain turned on for very long, there is more of a black residue from the arcing when they turn off, than actual overheating from constant high current. That powdery residue can be cleaned off with very fine sandpaper.

I use a strip about 1/4" wide and fold it in half so it's double-sided and 1/8" wide. Slide it in the contacts, then put a little pressure on the contact arm while you slide the sandpaper around.

Another common problem with relays that I see all the time in tvs and car radios is broken solder connections where the relay is soldered to the circuit board. If you suspect that and don't know what to look for, I'll try to find a picture to post of what that looks like.

The more I think about it, a broken solder connection makes more sense. In the circuits with relays that I'm familiar with, you would have to have two bad ones for "up" and "down" to both not work if contacts were the cause of the problem. Only one relay would have to have a bad solder connection for both directions to not work, because both relays pass current in both directions, either as the 12 volt feed to the motor or as the ground return circuit. They switch roles when you switch directions.

Try resetting the power window control unit.
1) Move the driver's power window all the way down by holding the driver's power window switch firmly down to the second detent, when the window reaches the bottom, hold the driver's power window switch in the AUTO DOWN position for 2 seconds.

2) Move the driver's power window all the way up without stopping by holding the driver's power window switch firmly up to the second detent, when the window reaches the top, hold the driver's power window switch in the AUTO UP position for 2 seconds.
If the power window does not work in AUTO, reset the power window master switch according to the above procedures again.

When resetting the auto functions, you must not pulll the switch fully, only pull it sufficiently to operate the manual function.

Start by opening the window fully. Then close the window fully.

If it does not work, you need to let it rest as the window would stop working if it gets too hot.