Battery drains

Measure the voltages on the three wires on the back of the alternator and tell me what you find. The larger one must have full battery voltage all the time. If it's missing, look for a very large blown fuse in the under-hood fuse box. The two smaller wires must only be measured while the engine is running. They will have 0 volts when the engine is stopped.

Caradiodoc

Everything you found suggests there are two or more shorted diodes in the alternator and the unit will have to be replaced. Diodes are one-way valves for electricity. There are two sets of three of them. When one diode in each set shorts, there is a direct path to ground through them which would melt the output wire. Older cars used a fuse link wire that was soldered in part of the wiring harness. Yours should have a large fuse bolted in the under-hood fuse box.

When the fuse is blown, you will not have battery voltage on that output terminal. With the engine running, the shorted diodes will let the very high current run back and forth wide open inside the alternator rather than being directed in one direction out to the battery. It takes 0.5 to 0.6 volts before a diode will turn on and conduct in the forward direction, and since they work in pairs, that's why you are still getting 1.2 volts at the output terminal. Once the turn-on voltage is reached and the good diodes start to conduct the current, it immediately goes backwards through the shorted diodes instead of to the battery. That high current is why it gets hot.

Intermittent output is caused by worn brushes which can be replaced easily, often without removing the alternator from the engine, but diodes are a different story. Because of the high current and the very low failure rate, they are soldered in and are relatively difficult to replace. That's why you're better off replacing the whole alternator and fuse.

Caradiodoc

If you want to double-check, verify there is no voltage on the output terminal, then disconnect that wire and use the ohm meter to measure resistance to ground on that terminal. I think you'll find close to 0 ohms. On the unlikely chance you find an open circuit, measure on the wire. If that reads low resistance, look for a spot where it is pinched or rubbed through and touching metal.

I don't know why you would be having so many failures. Other than the brushes wearing out at high mileage, Chrysler has very little alternator trouble. It's the GM piles that fail very often. It's real common to go through four to six of them in the life of the car.

Caradiodoc