Brakes got real hard and had no brakes

Tiny
ANONYMOUS
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 JEEP WRANGLER TJ
  • 82,000 MILES
Brakes got real hard and had no brakes. Changed brakes, calipers roters and still could not get brakes to get adjusted to bleed. Changed booster and master cylinder and still when pumping brakes they do not get stiff they keep going tp the floor. I am really puzzled and I need help.
Thursday, April 11th, 2013 AT 11:57 AM

2 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Did you bleed master before installing? Try a power bleeder first.
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Thursday, April 11th, 2013 AT 1:10 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
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THIS IS THE WAY I DO IT

My Bench bleeding ain't on the bench...it's on the vehicle!

Much EZer that way!

This can be done on the vehicle (my preference) using two people, one pumping and one monitoring the Master Cylinder.

I wrap string loops around the little hoses and tie a knot, as to keep the tubes from blowing off of the plastic adapters.

I take it one step further, by squeezing the little hoses with my fingers (as if I were a check valve) The VERY SLOW PUMPING OF THE PEDAL will push the fluid into the reservoir, SCOOTING BY MY PINCHING, but the pinch will not allow it TO S.UCK AIR BACK, as you see in the beginning of this video....My way makes things faster, but if you did not tie the hoses to the adapters--THEY WILL BLOW LOOSE (lots of adjectives will be bust loose out of your mouth!)

This is very similar to my way

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3Jhbz4mVKw&feature=related

xbleeding

This is the basic bleeding procedure I use:

KEEP FLUID IN THE RESERVOIR AT ALL TIMES/ CONSTANTLY CHECKING!

START WITH FURTHEST OUT WHEEL CYLINDER, FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER, WORKING TO THE CLOSEST (RR, LR, RF, LF)

2 PEOPLE, ONE PUMPING, OTHER BLEEDING AND REFILLING

#1 man is the Bleeder

#2 man is the Pump Man

1-MAN BREAKS BLEEDER LOOSE-SNUGS IT BACK YELLS, "PUMP IT UP"

2 MAN-PUMPS 6-8 TIMES (YELLS "PUMPING") THEN HOLDS PEDAL--YELLS, "HOLDING"

1-MAN CRACKS BLEEDER...AIR/ FLUID SPURTS OUT

2-MAN YELL, "FLOOR", JUST BEFORE THE PEDAL, ACTUALLY HITS THE FLOOR

1-MAN TIGHTENS THE BLEEDER....WHILE IT IS STILL SPURTING OUT (NOT AFTER IT STOPS...OR IT WILL SUCK AIR BACK IN).....THEN YELLS, "OKAY---PUMP IT UP"

PROCESS STARTS OVER UNTIL YOU ARE SATISFIED, WITH EACH WHEEL

THIS DOES NOT MATTER WHETHER THEY ARE DRUM BRAKES OR DISC.

ON DRUM BRAKES:

YOU SHOULD ALREADY HAVE THE SELF-ADJUSTERS PUSHING THE SHOES CLOSE TO THE DRUMS, SHOES SLIGHTLY TOUCHING THE DRUMS , BEFORE YOU DO THE BLEEDING PROCEDURE.....THIS WILL KEEP YOU PEDAL AT THE TOP AND TIGHT.

I PREFER THIS OVER USING THE ONE MAN, HOSE AND CUP, METHOD WHERE YOU SUBMERGE THE HOSE AND PUMP....TO ME THIS IS FASTER AND MUCH EZer.

IS THIS THE WAY YOU APPROACHED YOURS?

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, April 13th, 2013 AT 12:05 PM

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