ABS light coming on

Tiny
JIS001
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,411 POSTS
You should have the ABS module scanned for codes so that you can get an idea as to where to start looking. If the problem started right after you had the hub replaced then you should take it back so that they can double check there work? For now where they replaced the hub check the wheel sensor and make sure it is not rubbing anywhere causing cable to split. Also check your axle on the hub replacement side. Make sure the nut is on and tight. If loose or missing the axle could be sliding in and out a little enough to cause the wheel sensor to get confused. You can also try moving the axle in and out to makesure it is not loose. Also inspect the ring around the axle. Make sure all the teeth are there and not damaged. Thats just some of the basics? Hope this helps.
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MKP1151
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 FORD WINDSTAR
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 61,250 MILES
I recently bought a 2002 Ford Windstar that has an intermittent problem. A "Check Traction Control" message appears in the message center, and at the same time the amber "ABS" and red "Brakes" warning lights illuminate on the instrument panel. The indicators appear to clear when I shut the engine off for 15 seconds or longer.

I took the van to a garage and had the computer scanned. Three codes appeared: C1404, C1410, and C1185.

Is this problem related to any of the Ford recalls related to the ABS and speed control issues? What corrective actions need to be taken?
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
When they read the codes, they should have told you or documented what they refer to.

The "traction control" light is on in response to the anti-lock brake light because the traction control uses the ABS functions to operate. The yellow ABS light is on in response to the red brake warning light. The ABS system requires the base brake system to be working properly for it to work properly.

Start by looking for the cause of the red "Brake" warning light being on. Three switches / circuits are involved. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. If it's real low, add a LITTLE clean brake fluid. Don't fill it. Alternately, temporarily unplug the connector on the side of the reservoir.

Second, pull up on the parking brake pedal. If the red warning light goes off, suspect a sticking rear parking brake cable that isn't fully retracted, (a real common Ford problem), or the main cable is stretched and must be adjusted. An applied parking brake, (or switch that's turned on), will set a fault code in the ABS computer if you drive the vehicle that way.

Third, and least likely, if there was recently a leak in the hydraulic system, or the brakes were recently serviced, the "pressure-differential" switch may be the culprit. We'll cover that later if necessary.

If the first two suggestions don't help, you will need to find out what the fault codes refer to. The mechanic who read them should be able to help.

Caradiodoc
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+6
Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOM MYER
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1999 FORD WINDSTAR
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 82,000 MILES
9/10/2010

1999 Windstar base 3.0, auto, 2wd, cruise, rear window defroster, pwr steering & Brakes.
Mileage is 82,000.

Driving home from the store, the ABS light went on, the Odometer went to dashes & the speedometer quit working. The temperature was around 80 degrees. The orange ABS light was the only light on. Not knowing what was going on, I called the Ford dealer and was told $125 to run diagnostics & the repair could be between $800-2500.

After reading internet Ford problems, I found out that fuse 10 was blown. I replaced it & all was well for about 10 minutes, then the fuse blew again. More reading led to checking the deactivation sw on the master cylinder. It was fine and had been replaced by recall a year earlier. All wires under the master cyl appear to be fine.

More reading told me to pull fuse 101 & 102 (ABS 40amp fuses). The Orange ABS light went on. (I could live without ABS for a while), Well after the car got warm, fuse 10 blew again. Thinking that the new deactivation went bad, I totally disconnected it by removing the wire. Put in a new fuse 10 and started up the car. All was fine. It sat there idling for about 15 minutes & fuse 10 blew. Not one item was turned on. Anything related to what fuse 10 controls was off.

I pulled all connectors around the master cyl looking for brake fluid or corrosion. None was found, they all look pretty good, no brake fluid or corrosion.

While most problems deal with the deactivation sw, this one appears to be different.
Also some info deals with hot weather, which has not been the case since this problem started.

To date, I've done this three times, put in a new fuse 10, started the car COLD and let it idle with no equipment on. Fuse 10 blows after about 10-15 minutes. Fuse 101 & 102 are out & the deactivation wire is disconnected. After fuse 10 blows, putting in a new fuse blows immediately while the engine is hot.

Playing around some more, I noticed that when the car gets hot enough to activate the fans, fuse 10 blows. I first thought it might be the fans, but when trying again, the fuse blew about a minute before the fans went on.

For the most part, the car functions fine with the abs light on & fuse 10 blown. Wouldn't mind driving, but without speedometer, it is difficult.

Any help you can give will be appreciated. I will make a donation, and if you can solve the problem, I'll donate more.

If you need any other info, please let me know
Thanks

Tom Myer
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_windstar_fuse_10_1.jpg


You will need to check the power wires to all these units one by one to figure out what's blowing the fuse, ABS is already disconnected, so work on others, Also look for any green goo on wires and in connectors.
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOM MYER
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
What do you mean by check the power wires. Can you be a little more specific. If fuse 10 blows after the car gets hot, I would think that would point to something more than check all the power wires one by one.

Also all connections around the master cyl are pretty clean of any goo.
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
You are focused on the ABS, but if all ABS fuses are out, and more importantly, the 40amps were not blowing, then it is a different circuit involved. You need to check the other circuits on the fuse, and or pull the fuse box and check the wires on the back side of it.
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOM MYER
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Since the fuse does not blow for 15 min after the car is started AND AT A IDLE (not moving) and today it went for almost 20 min just sitting there, I cannot see doing what your telling me to do. This problem is definetly heat related. If there was a problem behind the fuse panel, I would think it would blow immediately.
Again can you be more specific as to heat related problems.

If you don't think heat has any thing to with this, why would all be okay until the car gets hot.

Thanks
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Whatever circuit is involved, is taking a while to heat sufficiently to cause it to blow. Try unplugging all electrical connectors at the brake module(EBCM). Wait for 20 minutes and see if it blows. If the short is in there, it's possible the fuse protection isn't working. If it blows again, you will need to check other cicuits that are on the 10 fuse.
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2TEEJAY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 FORD WINDSTAR
I have a 2002 Windstar, 92,975 miles, with the check engine light on. I had a diagnostic test ran on it today and it came back with codes 144 and 171. The car care center recommended replacing the intake manifold for $900.

Is there anything else that can be done to correct these codes?

My brake and ABS lights are also coming on intermittingly. I have recently had my brakes done and have had them checked 3 times and have been told they are fine. I was not gien the code the repair center retrieved, but they are researching their files to provide me with this. They did replace the ABS relay, but that did not work. I saw the thread on here that many people are having this issue, but did not see a solution. Has there been one?

Thank you in advnace for your assistance, and advise.
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHEVY22
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,375 POSTS
Depending on what engine you have, you may have an intake gasket leak, an intake runner leak on the lower or the upper intake has come apart, all failures are very common im sorry to say,

as far as the abs I wish you had the code there could be multiple problems there, one in particular I will mention since the shop replaced the relay, its making me think electronic, anyway I have only seen 20 or so do this over the last few years, the brake switch on the master cylinder will go bad and leak either outside the master cylider or in the wire that goes to the abs module on the drivers side under the vehicle next to the drivers door and fill the connector with fluid and short out the module and the harness, either way make sure they diagnose this abs problem properly I have seen guys replacing un needed parts to find out what reaaly happened, let me know what happens

jim
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LDGARMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2002 FORD WINDSTAR
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
I hit something on the road and had to replace the abs module. After two tries I have no speedo and no odometer no outside temp. And the abs lights are on. Is there a fuse that may have been blown that is some where other than in the two fuse boxes. I fear that a short has occured in the wiring at the abs module. Hope you can help. Thanks for your time
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
Best way to start diagnosing is by getting the codes from the abs module. Post them when you get them.

We need to know if there is a communication loss or if a particular circuit is being affected. No speedo and odometer and the abs light lit leans towards a bad speed sensor or harness to it. But really need the codes.
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LDGARMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Ok i'll get it scaned
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JKCBOSS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 FORD WINDSTAR
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 92,000 MILES
I have a 2002 Ford Windstar with problems with ABS MIL and Brake MIL intermittently coming on. I have had this problem for over 2 years, it has been such a frustration that I NEVER want another one! Last weekend I repaired the check engine light that was triggered by bad isolator bolts inside the intake plenum. The driver's side window no longer opens and the side doors often don't automatically open any more. Anyway.

Has anyone heard of the speed sensors on the wheels cracking and causing the ABS MIL light problem? My brother has had this issue and I also have a ABS/Brake MIL issue and wonder if the speed sensor could be a cause. What do you guys think?
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,879 POSTS
On the 02, each wheel as an ABS sensor. If the light is on, check to make sure none of the wiring to them have been damaged. Also, have the computer scanned to identify where the problem is coming from. It could be a bad sensor.
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+1
Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TWAR931
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • FORD WINDSTAR
I own a 1998 windstar with 369,000km with a 6cyl and the ABS light goes on and off. I am aware I have to replace the front brake pads and rotors. Would this fix the abs light? I was advised by a backyard mech to get the rear brakes adjusted and have the abs wire unhooked but it is required to pass inspection. Please help! Thanks.
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RBPIJ_68
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Hi justanold,

I have 1996 Ford windstar (180,000 km) 3.0 V6 and I have quite similar problem with TWAR931. The ABS light turns on right after few meters of driving and it remains lighted until the engine is turned off. I cleaned all the ABS sensors and measured the Impedance/Resistance(all ok at 2.6kohms -2.8kohms) but still kept showing up. Could this be an ABS module itself that cause this? Where is the ABS module located? Could DIY possible to replace it without any need of calibration or whatsoever? Thanks for your time.

Rbpij_68
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RBPIJ_68
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Hi justanold,

I bought my car from the internet (second hand) last month and unfortunately, I don't have too much information about how and what has been done concerning breaking system. I cleaned all sensors and noticed that those rear sensors are too rusty so I used the steel brush to cleaned them but didn't solve the problem. I noticed also that front Disc/rotor?) Is a bit worn out but not sure if it affect the ABS. By the way, what is the indicator ring and where it is located? Thanks.

Rbpij_68
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RBPIJ_68
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Hi justanold,

Thanks. I will try that end of this week.

Rbpij_68
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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 6:22 PM (Merged)

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