Power steering hose replacement

Continue the PB blaster overnight and use a line wrench to get the best grip here is a video that show help.

https://youtu.be/BGBUv5r9fk0

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers

Try some twisting with the wrench forcing it while tapping on it.

Done gnarled it all up?

Still able to get a bite?

I love heat!

Heat is my friend!

I looked at pics of your pump at auto zone and on oreilly auto parts on line

i think that if you wrap the majority of the pump w/ a sopping wet rag

have your wrench at the ready

and apply heat from a plumbers "turbo torch" (handheld unit, w/ mapp gas)---not a regular old propane unit (looks similar though)or use a pinpoint tip on a acetylene rig

something that will immediately and very quickly heat up the portion around stuck fitting (the boss) only!I'm talking 15 seconds of rotating the heat then pass off the torch to your pal and get on it w/ the wrench real fast!

Imma plumber, this is what I use to solder and also do "light" un-sticking of parts (like yours). Coupled w/ a bottle of map gas, it's the next best thing to acetylene!---10 times better than a propane torch
keep your rag tight and wet---keep heat off of the fitting to be extracted----there's no doubt this will get it out

the "o" ring will most likely be fried, once the fitting is removed--so be sure to change it

hope this helps

the medic

Try retightening the lock nut and then turning it loose 2 or 3 turns and then try the tugging and bending. The lock nut would give you additional leverage for the end.

Sometimes you must sacrifice and do what you gotta do!

How bout this

borrow a heavy duty deep well socket the correct size. From your neighbor

grind it similar to a o2 sensor socket (side partially ground out)

anyway. Chopping the side out of the socket you borrowed from your neighbor may have weakened it. Add insurance!

Place socket over the nut---open a hose clamp all the way up and put it over the socket (over the nut portion you are removing)---tighten it down tight (this will give some added strength so the socket does not "spread open"

once you get it broke loose, remove the hose clamp--the socket should be stout enough to screw it on out

course w/ the hose in the way, you will have to pick it up and move it to another position as you progress

sound like a plan?

The medic

The joint shown is not for the high pressure hose. That should be the feed hose.

Since you are replacing the hose, cut off the pipe somewhere 3 or 4 inches from the almost 90 degrees bend and use a hammer to tap the sawn off part downwards to make a U turn to allow you to use a screw driver as lever to twist the pipe.

If you cut the tubing, insert a metal rod into the pipe to support the tube and you can try to wiggle it loose with the rod instead of the pipe.

The rod would reinforce the pipe if you were to use a grip plier or wrench to turn it.

This does happen from time to time, aftermarket hoses can be assigned the wrong part numbers! You might try having the store look up a hose for one or two years earlier, if no luck, Dealer, or junkyard might work.

Here's another trick to try when your fitting wrench/ tubing wrench wants to over-expand open and wants to start jumping the nuts hex's.

Here's how to "capture" it.

I use this technique mostly on brake fittings, after I'm "Locked On" on the best angle possible that will allow a little/ some free movement (even if it's just a little) a smack on the fitting wrench/ tubing wrench handle might provide that little bit of movement. Usually that little move is all it needs to break it loose and start it turning.

Many times in a tight spot, needle nose vise grip pliers will grab tight enough for the task.

Penetrating oil? Everybody brags about theirs.
This has worked best for me.

It only takes a few drops, leave the room for a while, when you return the part will be laying in the floor! (LOL!---Close to that anyway!)

Pics) A few tight space configurations.

Pics are not working?