My transfer case is grinding why?

Move shift lever into 2H position.
Raise vehicle.
Loosen shift rod lock bolt at trunnion.
Check shift rod fit in trunnion. Be sure rod does not bind in trunnion. Lubricate the shift rod and trunnion if necessary.
Verify that transfer case shift lever is in 2H detent position. The 2H detent position on the transfer case shift arm is the second position from full forward.
Align the adjustment locating hole on the lower shifter lever with the adjustment channel on the shifter bracket assembly (Fig. 105 ).
Insert an appropriately sized pin through into the adjustment channel and through the locating hole to hold the shifter in the correct position.
Tighten shift rod lock bolt to 10 N.M (90 in. Lbs.) Torque.
Remove the locating pin from the adjustment channel and locating hole.
Check shift linkage operation. Be sure transfer case shifts into and operates properly in all ranges.
Check adjustment first it may be out of adjustment or if not it may b a tcase problem.

If it's coming from the front and sounds like grinding, check your front axle and shafts also drive in a circle right handed that will amplify the sound to make sure it is on the lh side. Check your fluid level if really low then check for cracks and have the axle checked for a gear problem.

Hi loweman. Welcome to the forum. Is there a reason you think you caused this damage? If it just occurred on its own, suspect a worn universal joint between the upper and lower ball joint. There is at least one model of front axle that actually has enough room to remove and replace the joint without disassembling the entire hub and wheel bearing, but on most, you will have to remove the hub and bearing to pull the shaft out.

A really good / experienced mechanic can replace the joint in less than two hours. Typical cost of the part should be somewhere between $20.00 - 50.00.

Caradiodoc

Oh. Scrubbing the tires in 4wd won't do any damage for short periods of time. It's prolonged driving on the highway the puts the driveline under constant stress. If doing what you did caused problems, every 4wd truck would be in the repair shop. It is much more likely the universal joint didn't want to be a universal joint any longer and was already thinking about failing. At some point, water gets into the cups and rust them and the needle bearings. The grinding action leads to one of the cups cracking apart. Due to its design, it can't actually fall apart, but it can cause lots of noise and a horrendous vibration. I suspect the little added stress of hauling wood was just what it needed to break. The problem would have occurred anyhow, just not at that moment.

A different problem these joints can cause is if one of the cups becomes tight from rusted or broken needle bearings, it will force a turned steering wheel back straight ahead every half tire revolution. That can be a weird sensation if you've never felt it before.

Caradiodoc

Have you checked the U-Joints? Also, where is the sound coming from?

That sounds like a lot of work. Regardless, glad it's fixed.

Good morning.

I would start by draining the transfer case and look for any metal in the oil. There is a shift motor that changes ranges from low to high range and two to four wheel drive.

Roy

You are welcome.

Keep us updated.

Roy

Was there any metal in the old oil when you drained it?

I suggested that oil change to see if there was any metal to determine if there was any damage in the transfer case.

Roy

If shifting from 4 h to 4 L, the gear ratios are different and one is spinning faster than the other. Leave the car in park and try shifting from there. That way, nothing will be turning in the drive line.