Fuel pressure - Fuel pump?

You are very welcome. I just hope I helped. Also, sorry for the added work. However, with pressure that high, the regulator or something plugged is where the problem is coming from. THe 90+ psi sounds unregulated which makes me believe you have an issue with the new part. Take it back regardless if you find another problem and replace it again.

Trust me, if I couldn't work on my vehicles, I don't know what I would do. I could never pay today's labor rates.

Let me know how things work out for you.
Joe

I would try this. I would look at the specific wiring schematic for your interior cluster power or ground. I would head back to the fuse panel(interior) or the Body control Module, and see if the side of the fused cluster, that feeds that section of the fuse box, heads anywhere to an intersection where the PCM gets any feed. And also follow the ground circuit to see if there is any other point of intersection that could be interupting the BCM or PCM ground, power in a common area. This seems to be a wiring intermittant open in either circuit or splice area.
I think the truck deserves a Dodge scan and their schematic sheets(readily available) experience, and possibly any inside parts or service information. Ok
The in tank low pressure pump may be having communication problems with it's relay ground source(PCM).
Wrap the hose for the in-tank pressure guage through the back of the hood under your wiper blade(careful) to see if you lose pressure and power a few seconds later or less. If the OBDII is not emmissions related their(Chryslers) codes show up on the DRBIII. A big time 6 grand computer. Also if you can find the problem with it shutting off, a second problem may exist now or soon, if it is wiring and not a PCM or input sensor problem. Ok joe

Sounds like the battery might have been disconnected or run dead recently. If so, the Engine Computer lost its memory and has to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when it must be in control of idle speed. It also might not give you the normal "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm when you start the engine. To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the brake or gas pedals.

Try disconnecting the TCC solenoid and see if it'll work and also refer to this walk thru link: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

1 and 2 plugs are runnig too rich. Check for codes a nd report back. Autozone does it free.

Check to see if your automatic shutdown relay is working first it 's in the power dist box unerhood try replacing it first. Or cleaning he ends going into box. If not that hav e pro look at it. It may be a wiring/pcm problem.

See if there is a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail (where injectors go) If there is, there should be a vacuum line to the intake, if there is fuel present in the vacuum line, the reg is blown and could be causing theose 2 cylinders to run rich, and the lack of fuel pressure "jump" when on the gas