Reduced power mode

I had 420 one of them and 7 others. The screen on the right side converter has collapsed.

Let check the rest again.

Here are my remaining symptoms after replacing converters. P0120, P0220, P1516, P2135, P0220.

Goes into limp mode on my duramax when I stay goin at 65 mph on the freeway its an 01 lb7 furamax just got injectors done what could it be. And fuel pressure is 11,000 should be 23,000

2003 Silverado 2500 HD 6.0 When I got this truck the instrument cluster was out. I only had volts temperature gas low light and fluctuating oil pressure. Since this was much of an issue for me didn’t fix. It drove fine until it went to reduced power) I will shorten that to RP for rest of post). Since no instrument cluster no display. I didn’t know what was wrong. I made it home and the problem was gone after ignition was off. It began to go to RP off and on for a while took it to a shop that test drove and couldn’t duplicate problem. Seems their solution was to throw a new instrument cluster at it for $500.00. Declined since I remove in 15 minutes and have repaired for less the $200.00. I took bad advice and replaced ECM for $350 and a complex (to me) relearn. Some gauges came back for a few days but RP came back within two weeks. It always went away after turning off key and waiting 30 seconds. It go annoying so Called a mobile mechanic that diagnosed as replace throttle Body (TB). Replaced with a new Japanese import I don't recall the name of but was just as expensive as The GM replacement and the only one new one in stock the day I needed it. Cost $203. Drove fine for close to a year. Thats when I forced myself to learn about it and by a scan tool with Erase Code ability. After numerous YouTube videos and Google Search went through the usual. Checked all g rounds, replaced Accelerator Position Sensor (APS). The driver’s braided ground was broken off at firewall, so I grounded TB, TAC Module (on driver’s firewall) and negative battery lead to alternator bracket. Cleaned both grounds under driver's side frame. Drove okay for a while but got codes 1516 and 2135 about once a week but cleared easy and went away. Had an attempted theft where steering column was wrecked, and some wires pulled off near ignition switch. I pieced the wires and broken plastic together and radio began to not turn on until 20-30 minutes after start-up ran okay for several months. Reduced power got worse and after I replaced water pump and radiator became every time, I started the engine. I must have damaged wiring harness disconnecting from TB when changing radiator had to turn off or clear codes 1516 and 2135. Also 0120 and 0220 began to appear. Found a wire to TB harness at 90 angle and only a few strands of wire still connected. Instead of just replacing the one pin changed the entire wiring harness connector. I bought one at NAPA recommended and sliced in with supplied slice connectors and shrink wrap. The Japanese Throttle body has blade connectors and new harness pig tail did quite go on all the way and snap in like replaced one. It did go on and problem went away for several months. Now its almost too much. Every time I start it the first code is 0120. Clear. Within 20 seconds 1516 or 2135. After warming up gets better but I have to drive with meter in my lap to clear codes when check engine light comes on. Also get 0332 and 1515 sometimes. Been going off and on for over two years. The TAC module is about the only thing not replaced. Maybe a bad wire somewhere or possible reflash replaced ECM? MAP sensor? Cleaned the battery box and even made an attempt at grounding ECM to negative battery lead. Stuck.