Loss of power

Do you have any code's?What year model did you get the transmission from?How did you check the three cats your car has?

No codes come up. Tranny was the same 2002 sl2 with 127,000 on it
What did you mean by 3 cats?

Oh sorry i thought i read that you had a L model saturn.On your exhaust manifold do have a cat?Also how did you check your cat?How is the transmission not shifting properly the more details the better since i can't test drive it or see it.Paint me picture.

Our car is a saturn sl2 duel overhead cam.. we made sure the main exaust cat coverter was not blocked. The car acts like it is in a limp-home mode. loss of power in all gears. while driving rpm go high if you let off the accelerator they come down and the car will shift. gets real boggy when trying to accelerate.

So had a exhaust back pressure test ran on your car when it had those issues?Because it really sounds like a plugged cat.There is no limp mode for that car.

To save money could I unhook the exhaust at the manafold in order to test it.

Do you have a cat on your exhaust manifold it would be hard to miss it would be right below the exhaust tubes where they all come together an the bottom of the manifold?I have dropped the down pipe before and seen if the cat was clogged that way.You just don't want to run it that long like that.The back pressure gauge sets are about 40.

Turns out the first cat came apart and plugged up the second one... replaced it and its all good.. Thanks so much for the help

My saturn starts fine when cold. If i let it idle for a few minutes it starts to miss and eventually just dies. You cannot restart it until it cools down. The temp gauge shows a rapid increase in temp but it remains in normal range and does not indicate overheating. (no numbers...just deflects to the middle mark on the gauge between cold and to hot). No check engine light. Oil preasure ok. fluids all ok.

So from being cold to the half way mark on the temp gauge of idling how long does that take?Those cars are known for bad coolant temp sensors and the connectors getting corroded from coolant leaking into them.They are also known for bad crankshaft position sensor going bad causing dieing and not starting till they cool down.So when it dies and wont start see if it has spark?Also any codes?

I need you to check if there is fuel and spark getting to the engine when it doesn't start. At least one will be missing. Once I know that, we can focus on that circuit. If you need directions, go to our homepage for detailed instructions and a video.

Had to disconnect the wires under the steering column of a 97 saturn sl2. The wires went two places, 4 wires (red, orange, yellow and black) connected to some wires underneath the steering wheel. The other 4-6 (white, green, red, and a plug that consisted of both a brown and blue wire) went to some other wires under where the car radio would be, and connected just right under the cup holder area. There were two small black and blue wires grounded. All of these wires were connected to a white plug that seemed to be meant to plugged into another part which I don't have. After these were disconnected, there has been no power to the car at all. Can someone provide me instructions on which wires to connect where so that the car may start again?

In addition, this was all initiated because of my car not starting in the first place. I believe it's due to the security system of the car, considering the car's headlights and dome lights would work, but the radio wouldn't turn on and the car never attempted to start (wouldn't turn over, when the key was turned to run, it would just go quiet). Should the system be removed, or is there a way to bypass this fault so that I can start the car again?

Are you the same person who asked about your alarm went off after unlocking the drivers door with the key.Then it wouldnt start from that point on?Also why were all these wires cut?What was installed?

No sir, the wires weren't cut, a new radio was installed but removal of those wires were not related to the new radio installation. The security system has never gone off prior to this.

Alright iam confused so are the wires to the ignition switch cut?Also the connector under the cup holder cant think of one that would keep the car from starting.Were you talking about the wires to the inside fuse box?Any pics you could post?Have you checked all the fuses inside and outside?

Here are some Pics

Pic 1: Where the first 4 plugs connect, under the steering wheel, this is directly under the steering wheel. I have connected some of the plugs as you can see, but I'm not sure if they're correct. The wires with blue connectors on the end are on the same long wire as pic 3.

Pic 2: These are the 4 connectors I found that can be accessed by removing the cupholder. These wires are right next to the fuse box on the passenger side of the vehicle.

Pic 3: This is what needs to be connected to those 4 connectors that are in pic 2. I don't know which color connects to which. The 2 wires off to the side were grounded to a metal bar located near those wires in pic 2.

Pic 4: This is where all the wires seem to run from, the one connector that was unplugged when I bought the car. The green and red wires were cut when I bought the car.

I just have to find out which colors connect to which colors so I can get power to the car again! The power locks don't work, there's no chime, no lights, nada

You just want to get rid of that after market alarm correct?It looks like the only wires they really cut into are the ones going to the ignition switch correct?What color wires going to the ignition switch did they actually cut into?I dont care about the ones they just added those T taps too.All the wires that have the blue connector ends on them that are plugged into the red T taps just unplug them.From behind the inside fuse box and on thr steering column.

When I'm driving the car will lose power and stall . I just had it tuned up all filters were changed the wired were changed and the fuel pump was changed . It happens off and on but not all the time
Thanks

I had the computer check the car and the folling codes were listed ; PO 171 , PO 507 , PO 1599
Thanks

When the car stalls will it restart right away the more details the better.Also go to a auto parts store like auto zone and have them scan your car for code's.If you have any codes let me know what numbers they are.

The pics really helped by the way now i know what your talking about.The yellow wire they cut into going to the ignition switch you can cut out the two wires they spliced into the two ends of the yellow wire.Then reconnect the yellow wire like it was from the factory.That will restore your starter wire coming from your ignition switch.

The car restarts after a couple of tries it seems like its not getting fuel . I had the computer checked and the following code were listed
PO 171
PO 507
PO 1599
Thanks

Okay excellent thank you for that information. What do I do with the rest of those wires though? They were all connected to something at one point and time, do I need to worry about those at all?

From your code p0171 and p0507 i would see if you have a vacuum leak also check your fuel pressure when the car is acting up.Did you change your fuel filter also?Let me know what you find.

Nevermind, just re read your posts. Thank you! So doing this should restore power back to the car right? Right now the battery is still connected, should I disconnect the wires before placing the yellow wire back to how it was?

the fuel filter and fuel pump was changed .
Thanks

You can unplug all those blue end connectors from the alarm that are plugged into all the red T Taps.Also are there any other wires that they actually cut going to the ignition switch not just T tapped into?If so what color are they?

Engine Performance problem
1998 Saturn SL2 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual

When going over 25-30 MPH, there is no power when pressing on the gas. It stutters and there is no acceleration. The check engine light will come on too. Any suggestions as to what is wrong? My husband is working on a friend's car and cleaned and reclamped but it is still losing power.

[quote:9ae52ba73b="tara225"]Engine Performance problem
1998 Saturn SL2 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual

When going over 25-30 MPH, there is no power when pressing on the gas. It stutters and there is no acceleration. The check engine light will come on too. Any suggestions as to what is wrong? My husband is working on a friend's car and cleaned and reclamped but it is still losing power.[/quote:9ae52ba73b]


Hello,

I suggest going by your local parts store and have them pull codes and post here.


.

I would also check your coolant temp sensor and the connector to it see if the connector is corroded if it is the connector need's to be changed.If you change the coolant temp sensor then make sure you get a brass tipped one the plastic tipped one's crack.There only 10 for the sensor and it's real common for them to fail and they cause all kind's of symptom's.

Just unplug those blue end connectors from the alarm you can reconnect the yellow wire before or after doing that.Reconnecting the yellow wire will restore the starter trigger wire.But not the dash lights if they dont come on?Or the radio.So they also tapped ito the radio wires?I didnt see that in your pics?

Its ok and the car is not running hot
Thanks

Ok i will unplug them tomorrow. As for other wires, I saw no other cut wires in any area. I will reconnect that wire tomorrow. They might have, or I might have just done some faulty wiring lol. I will check that out tomorrow, what should be concerned about or pay special attention to when trying to figure this out?

That doesn't mean it's not bad i have seen a lot of customer's come in not complaining about overheating but the sensor was bad cause no start's hard start's dieing etc.Just something i thought you should not over look and it's cheaper then the other thing's you have tried.

Most of the time all they do is cut the yellow wire to disable the starter but if your car already has factory keyless entry then that disables the starter and sounds the horn when the factory alarm goes off.Just see if they cut any other wires unplug all the other wires they plugged in with the alarm.Also hook back up the yellow wire they cut.Does it have factory door locks?Do you have a factory remote for the car not a aftermarket one?

Ok I will have it changed and see what happens

I cut the yellow wire and reattached to no avail. Still no power to car. I have discovered the alarm issue we can disregard that I just wired the radio wrong lol. Door locks are factory and powered, no factory remote or aftermarket one. The wires connected in pic 1 were connected to a small black box that looked like a type of fuse. Similar to the starter relay, small black box.

The car died while I was driving. Had it towed to the garage and "fixed". They replaced the crank sensor. Now the car has rpm problems. When you start the car, the rpm goes very high, over 2500 rpm. When driving and coming to a stop, the engine rpm jumps up and then goes back down and seems to follow the transmission shifts. Basically, the rpm is erratic when slowing down.
What is wrong?

could be vacuum leak or IAC trouble? try google and do a search of this forum for previous replys for a similar problem.

Your black box is your aftermarket alarm control module.All the cars i have seen with door locks that year had a factory security system.Look under the passenger rear bolster cushion for the remote keyless entry module.The bolster cushion is the verticle cushion closest to the door.Also when you turn the key to the run position do all the dash lights come on?

Thank.you. Unfortunately my dash lights won't come on and there is no electricity through the car